Christmas

Thurs 18th Dec
Set out east on N340, fairly easy going and not too busy to start with. Weather brilliant and cycle in just t-shirt for first time in a while. Just past Nerja, about 10k later, things start to get hillier. Fortunately most of the traffic heads off to the autovia at this point so for 8 to 10k I often have the road to myself. It's hard work as the road winds up, down and around the coast but worth it for the peace and views. Too soon the autovia traffic rejoins the N340 and life becomes more hectic. For the next 16k I wobble up hills and speed down whilst cars and lorries squeeze by. There are two fairly long tunnels where I switch on lights and get through as quick as possible; the noise echoing around the tunnel as lorries pass by is horrendous. By the time I reach the final descent into Salobrena and cross the river delta, past Motril, to campsite at Carchuna, a total distance of about 58k or 35 miles, my legs have about had it. This area is covered in immense polythene greenhouses; the steep hillsides are terraced and covered with them. All i've seen growing so far are courgettes. Get paperback from reception and spend evening reading and relaxing.

Fri 19th Dec
Decide that this is a suitable site to stop at for a few days whilst I sort out a few things. Facilities are good, price is reasonable and there's free wi-fi at the bar. Spend day pottering, emailing, washing fleece liner and reading. Limited reading on offer as most books are in german or dutch (or similar)

Sat 20th Dec
Glorious day so take a walk into nearby Carchuna. Not a particularly interesting place so head back and walk west along the beach. Although not of the golden sand variety, more brown sand and shingle, it is geologically interesting so spent rest of day wandering along the shoreline in the sunshine picking up pebbles. Wasn't sure if I could handle the stress but I managed.

Sun 21st Dec
Shortest day of year so a sort of turning point. Spend morning walking about 3k east along beach to Calahonda. Slightly more interesting than Carchuna but mainly modern apartments, many empty. As it's sunday quite a few folk are about promenading or cycling in the sun. Church bells ring, not in any particular sequence but just spun round with gay abandon creating an atmospheric if somewhat unmusical background. Back at the site many spaniards have arrived for the weekend to use their permanent caravans. Many of these sites offer substantial discounts if you stay for long periods. As an example, if you stay for 30 days at this site it is 70% discount. As they usually arrive as a family and are quite a loud, talkative race things can get noisy.

Mon 22nd Dec
Still awaiting info to sort out tax so wash a few clothes then walk into Carchuna to get a few provisions. Manage to find a hefty tome in reception to read; "atlas shrugged" by Ayn Rand. Chill out and read for rest of afternoon and evening.

Tues 23rd
Decided that I will stop here over christmas. I hope to meet up with two friends, Neal and Carol, about 4 to 5 days further along coast. As I aim to be there end of December I can idle away a few days here.
Now have information I need to sort out tax so can settle down and decide what to do for 25th.

Weds 24th Dec
Walk along beach into Calahonda and back then spend evening reading. In evening, Christmas carols are played over tannoy and santa tours campsite with entourage, handing out free bottle of wine for blokes (rioja) and flowers (pointsettia?- red and green leafs) for ladies. Nice surprise.

Thur 25th
Very sunny and warm day. Spend most of christmas day on beach before heading back for dinner and wine. Finish book in evening. A novel with a philosophical background. Not a book i'd recommend as you have to wade through a lot of tripe for the few scraps of meat worth chewing over. Wind really picks up in evening and noise keeps me awake until early hours.

Fri 26th
Time to move on. Head along coast to just past Adra. Very hilly again as road winds its way around coast. Not sure if 8 days of lazing around have helped as legs about shot by time I get there. Very scenic coast; dramatic and interesting rather than pretty. All along this coast it is layers of tan and grey sedimentary rocks, piled up and contorted as North Africa slowly ploughs into Spain. The grey rock has a mineral in it, possibly Mica, that occasionally make rock faces, boulders and pebbles shine like polished aluminium. Walk round Adra to get supplies and see remains of fort there. On to campsite which is surrounded by polythene greenhouses again. It's basic but quite attractive and friendly. Just get pitched and started on dinner when German woman wanders over and gives me can of beer. Just have time to say thanks before she wanders off again. Unusually, two cycle tourists turn up. First i've seen since Jim and Marcia in San Sebastian, north Spaink.

Sat 27th Dec
Follow coast east towards El Ejido, again very scenic. Thought the next stretch would be fairly easy as it's straight roads on the map. Unfortunately a strong headwind keeps me in lowest 3 gears all the way to campsite just west of Almeria. Scenery is grotty for most of journey, just acres of polythene greenhouse again. Bit of variety and interest as pass through the urbanization at Roquetas de Mar and Aquadulce then back to rocky coast to campsite at Garrofa.

Sun 28th dec
Wind really picked up during night. Campsite is in small valley and gusts would rush down like an express train. When the gusts died down the nearby autovia and N340 supplied the noise before the next gust came. Ground is hard packed sand and gravel and, as tent inner is mainly mesh, the fine sand was driven under the flysheet, through the mesh and into tent. Got very litte sleep and had to resecure tent pegs several times. In the morning everything was coated in fine sand; sleeping bag, pillow, clothes. It was in my hair, nose and ears, everywhere. To top it all it starts raining. Clean up kit and myself and press on as I want to pass through Almeria whilst traffic is slight. Cycle last few k of rocky coast before the castle in Almeria comes into view. As hoped there is not much traffic and have pleasant ride along seafront. Follow coast road before heading inland towards the Sierra del Cabo de Gata which loom up in front. Rain has eased off but still overcast and windy. After steady climbs across mountains I reach coast on other side at Los Escullos then down into valley at Rodalquilar. This is all national park and it really is nice as pass through valley with mountains all around. Still many wild flowers out. Leg burning climb out of valley to viewpoint on headland. 40 or so mountain bikers here also enjoying view. See chap with lightweight racer walking up the hill I've just cycled up. What a sensible chap I thought and walked last 100 metres to top of pass. Fast descent and a few more climbs before reaching destination at Las Negras. Find out campsite is in next valley to south. Just can't manage final steep climb so walk to top then coast down valley side in a series of hairpins to site.

Mon 29th
Wonderful windless noiseless night, just the soft chirping of whatever it is that chirps softly at night. Weather improved so will stay here today and recuperate. Friendly site and chatted to quite a few folk about pros and cons of motor homes. Many are also keen walkers and this is an ideal place for that, it really is scenic around here. Have relaxing stroll along clifftops to village for days supplies then back to service bike and wash remaining sand off things. Have chat with couple of young swedish lads who are from a sort of hippy commune about 5k north at San Pedro. As with many other folk i've met they were surprised and interested in the idea of touring on a small wheel folding bike.

Tues 30th Dec
Windy but sunny. Set off for Mojocar. No suitable road along coast so head inland to Fernan Perez. Although hilly it wasn't too bad until halfway there, then saw road winding up mountainside ahead of me. Daunting but no other option so get on with it. After many rests eventually reach top where there are superb views back towards Cabo de Gata. Down into Fernan Perez then NE along wide valley towards Carboneras on the coast. A few k on from Carboneras when heart sank. In the distance I could see road twisting up and around high mountain; sometimes carved into the side, other times hanging precariously off it supported on arches. I'd never encountered anything like this before and initial thought was 'no way' as legs were already tired, but with mix of walking, cycling and resting I finally reached the top where it was blowing a gale. Many smaller hills followed and when finally reached campsite at Mojocar and pitched up I could hardly walk as I set off to get dinner.

Weds 31st Dec
Leave tent and kit at camp and cycle into Garrucha to find Neal and Carol's apartment. Although I had the address I had no idea where in Garrucha it was so ask dustman. As he put my notebook right up to his nose and squinted I realised i'd made the wrong choice. Found another bloke and he directed me to where he thought it was. Found apartment and rang bell but no reply so left bike on front and went for look round. Returned to see Neal and Carol leaning over apartment terrace looking at bike. Neal had just popped out to get better mobile reception, seen bike and wondered whether it was mine. This turned out to be fortunate as we later found the apartment bell was either not working or connected to a different apartment. Hoist bike and myself over terrace wall and celebrate arrival with a beer. After describing route I took yesterday from Las Negras to Mojocar they told me they'd driven exactly the same route. Somehow we had missed each other.
N and C had friends coming over for New Years Eve so we shot out in car to get food and drinks before driving inland for a beer at a hiltop bar. Seeing the hills and roads inland made me glad i'd stuck to the coast. Quite dramatic views from bar with conical hills rising from flat plane. Later in evening the instantly likeable Rosie and Ken arrive. As Rosie was a hairdresser she'd brought along her kit and trimmed my hair. After dinner we go to local bar and have a few drinks. Eventually get to bed about 4-ish.

Thurs 1st Jan 2009

HAPPY, HEALTHY AND PROSPEROUS NEW YEAR TO EVERYBODY

Drive down to Mojocar to collect tent etc then inland to Moorish village high in mountains. Most of the properties have been renovated as holiday homes. Many had brightly tiled domes on the flat roof which is apparently to aid cooling. Parts of village had collapsed in the past due to crumbly nature of the rock and steepness of mountainside. After staring at incredible views we go for best, freshest tasting pizzas i've had at one of the restaurants in the village.

Fri 2nd Jan
Neal and I take trip to DIY shop as switch on water heater playing up. Big Alladins cave of a place but didn't have quite the same switch. I bought stainless steel 1 litre water bottle so wouldn't have to strap plastic or cardboard milk cartons to bike. The last time I pitched tent I found everything soaked in milk where container had leaked. I lazed around rest of day. All suffering from some sort of cold; Carols got bad cough, Neals got the shivers and i've got beginings of cough.

Sat 3rd jan
Neal and Carol set off home but they've kindly said I can stay on at the apartment if I wish. As i'm in no rush to head North and into bad weather I gladly accept. Wise decision as by end of day cold really beginning to take hold. Joints ache, coughs and sneezes and generally under the weather.

Sun 4th jan - Sat 10th jan
Not much to report. Really had stinker of cold; streaming nose, shivers, joint aches, headaches, cough, little sleep. Everything seems to have hit at once. Just stopped in, read books, played guitar and watched videos.
Only aspect of interest is collecting water. Although there is tap water; for drinking water you have to take a stroll into the village. You either buy it in bottles from shops or there are a couple of small public buildings with taps which have a certified water supply. Every few days I have to take empty containers down, fill 'em up and lug them back.

Sun 11th Jan
Cold beginning to clear at last. Weather not been good for past few days and raining today but take stroll along seafront in morning then start to catch up on chores. Apart from usual stuff like washing clothes the 4 months of cycling and camping has taken its toll on kit and much of it needs repairing, cleaning etc.