Traffic and wind noise make sleep fitfull. On way back from emailing
blog I spot girl, tent and motorcycle so go over for a chat. Fiona
passed test in march, bought CB500 off ebay , set out through France
during December and is now going round Spain opposite way to me. Lend
her my campsite book as hers is old, and agree to meet in bar in
evening. Go for long stroll along seafront and spot hundreds of
strange hairy pebbles. Looks like coconut fibre rolled up by waves.
Weather deteriorating so head back. Call in bar in evening and chat
with Fiona till throwing out time.
Sar 7th feb
Cold blustery wind and dead PDA conspire to keep me here another day.
PDA fault only due to unseated battery fortunately. Walk into Santa
Pola to visit fort and use library internet to check bank account and
blog comments. Go to look at roman remains but looks like still
excavating to record before development. Meet Fiona in bar in evening
as she suggested earlier I might also like to chat with Will, a
mathematician. Will rolls up and we all have interesting chat before
exchanging email addresses and retiring.
Sun 8th feb
Weather looks reasonable so get ready to move on. Said goodbye to the
folks i'd met and headed off to Alicante. Nice sunny day so took time
meandering along seafront and looking at Alicante's imposing castle.
Followed coast round and found campsite at El Campello.
Mon 9th feb
Chat with Dutch couple who have custom small wheel tandem that splits
into two for transportation. They introduce me to Russian girl who
cycles everywhere with her Portugese dog running by her side. She'd
been at campsite since March; her new tent had baked to a crisp in the
summer sun then shredded by the fierce gales that hit Spain this
winter. Got it replaced under guarantee though. Head off along coast
through Benidorm. I have to admit that I liked Benidorm, it had an
infectious lively atmosphere. On through Altea then along an
incredible road that carves its way through steep narrow gorges and
tunnels through knife edge ridges before reaching Calpe. Couldn't find
road I wanted but meet two british women who point me in right
direction. Find campsite and pay for two nights as get 20% discount.
Getting water I chat with two blokes, Bill and Colin about my trip.
Later Bill pops along to ask whether I would mind if he took photo of
me, bike and two fluffy toys. To cut a long story short, the toys,
Piglet and Bun, belong to his grandchildren and he and his wife, Sue,
take them on trips then post back photos and letters of Piglet and
Buns adventures to the grandchildren .
Tues 10th feb.
I'd discovered that Bill, Colin and several other couples here are
keen walkers and after enquiring they suggest one along coast. It was
lovely walk with posh villas to one side and low sea cliffs to the
other. Occasional tracks led down to small secluded coves as the path
hugged the cliff top. At the end was a diving centre with bar so stop
for a beer before heading back. Carry on along seafront into Calpe
where the tall hotels and apartment blocks are dwarfed by the rocky
Penyal d'Ifac that rises from the sea. Returning to camp I call into
Bill and Sue's to drop off a map of my travels that they wished to
include in their letter to their grandchildren. Colin and his wife
call round and all end up chatting over coffee and pan baked lemon
cake.
Weds 11th feb
Say goodbyes to everybody and head for Moraira. Hilly and twisty but
really enjoyable trip. Sun shining and nice views along the way. "That
looks interesting" said a voice from behind as I was trudging up a
hill. I looked round to see a vision in pink and black lycra cruised
by on skinny wheels. "A momentary madness" I replied. "Around here,
yes" she called back and disappeared round a corner. Reach Moraira, a
very nice place, walk round small castle and bask in sun on seafront
for a while. Head inland to Benitatxel and on to Xabia. Again an
attractive place and i'm tempted to stop for a beer but i'd been
forewarned about the next stretch to Denia. Sit on seafront a while
then start the steady climb up through the old town. Turn off for
Denia and begin the long climb over the headland. 2-3k of steep twists
and turns but persist and make it to top. Extensive views of mountains
on left, noticeably greener now, sloping down to sweep of seafront of
which every inch, from Denia to Cullera some 60k away, seems to be
developed. Strong NW wind on long freewheel into Denia meant jacket
required and journey on to campsite 6k further on became a slog.
Otherwise it was nice journey in a nice corner of Spain.
Thurs 12th feb
Brief chat with scottish couple as I was packing. They were fed up of
moving caravan about so had decided to leave it here and travel down
for winters. Sunny day but traffic and strong headwind made journey to
Oliva unpleasant. Highlights were the half dozen prostitutes lining
main road. Dolled up in skimpy hotpants, miniskkirts aand thijh
lenf......whoops lost concentration there. Anyway, first i've seen
since Portugal I think. Head to coast on minor roads to get away from
traffic and find campsite near Miramar. Hadn't planned to stop here
but not enjoying journey today.
Fri 13th
Very cold night and grey overcast morning. Heavy condensation during
night meant damp sleeping bag so put out to air before setting off.
Meander along deserted seafronts and strips of empty apartments before
meeting signs of life in Grau de Gandia. Funny sky with heavy grey
clouds to left and blue sky over sea to right. Fortunately i'm cycling
on the edge of the sunny bit. Reach Xeraco, only about 20k from where
I started, and decide to stop. Pitch up and head to beach. Have whole
wonderful sandy beach to myself. Walk along waters edge in the
sunshine with sea occasionally breaking over up to thighs. Too cold to
swim and waves quite rough.
Go for evening stroll through Xeraco, hardly anybody about and
virtually everywhere shut. Site is small, 42 places, and only half
dozen here including me. It may be apparent that i've not been cycling
far the past few days. The reasons are: I find it more relaxing to
cycle through cities on a sunday and Valencia is now within two days
ride. Some of the campsites north of here have seasonal opening times
and the first one north of Valencia opens on 15th feb. As I sit here
writing blog a jovial looking german calls round to offer a glass of
spanish orange liquor as defence against the cold. It is getting
noticeably colder as I head north. A brief chat and another glass
later and he bids goodnight and goes. I remind myself to be careful as
I inflate my mattress with potentially inflammable gas before turning
in.
Sat 14th feb
Woke at midnight dripping wet with condensation. Sleeping bag damp,
tent sopping wet inside. I actually get out of bed to dry myself off
with towel but its very cold out. Open tent door for ventilation but
it becomes too cold so just have top half open. Still very cold in
morning and stove fuel needs encouragement to burn. Leave at 10:30
and take minor roads north through miles of orange groves. Sounds nice
but it's all a bit tatty. Thousands of oranges litter the ground;
windfalls I suppose. Pass through Cullera which was quite interesting
with its castle and harbour. Make way round large rocky promontory,
rather like Calpe, and see huge flat plain that stretches to Valencia.
From the map it looks like a flood plain and many of the fields look
waterlogged. Sun blazing down but cool wind keeps cycling comfortable.
Reach campsite, about 16k south of Valencia, far earlier than planned
due to flat roads. As i've pitched out of the breeze it's very hot so
gives me chance to put bedding out to air which is still damp and
clammy from last night. Site expensive at 21.50 euros per night and
its not particularly pleasant either.
Sun 15th feb
Wake up to rain. Pack as much as can and wait for rain to ease before
packing tent. Grey, wet and miserable as set out for Valencia along
busy road. Find cycle track on city outskirts that eventually takes me
exactly where I wanted to go, the arts and sciences centre and
hemisferic. This small patch has some impressive modern architecture
and is wonderful to walk round. There is a dry river bed running
through the city which creates a green recreation strip with walks,
cycleways and sports facilities. I follow the edge of this before
branching off to the historic centre. Nice hotch-potch of a cathedral
with unusual mix of styles, they also have a bronze model of the
cathedral and old city centre with descriptions in braille, nice touch
I thought. As I can read neither spanish or braille i'm none the
wiser.
A really nice city in which, with good weather and good company, I
could easily spend a week or two. Unfortunately it's cold and raining
so I make my way out north to Pucol on the N340. Intended to cut
across on minor roads to El Port de Sagunt but missed turning and
ended up on busy autovia into Sagunto. Sort of worth it to see the
sprawl of Sagunto castle on hilltop. Head towards port and then minor
roads to campsite. By now i'm wet, cold and dispirited and it seems to
take forever to cycle through the empty coastal urbanisation. Pitch
up, eat emergency rations as no shops open and go to bed at 19:30 to
try and warm up.
Mon 16th feb
Slept till 8:30. Still grey and overcast but rain has stopped. Brew
tea but milk getting low so boil meusli in water to make a porridge.
No food left so go to campsite shop. Basic so only get emergency
emergency rations. Spot young woman who is in cabin opposite and ask
in my best spanish whether she speaks english. She does so I ask
whereabouts of nearest supermarket. "An hours walk along the beach"
she replies. Intriqued by her excellent english I inquire where she's
from. "Newmarket" she replies. Rather stupidly I ask "Newmarket
England?"
Belatedly I introduce myself and find her names Sam. Thanking Sam I
set off to supermarket. Suns out by time get back so start to dry kit
out and plan next stage of journey. Have longer chat with Sam and find
next few days sunny so decide to stay extra day and get washing done.
Tue 17th
Get washing done and out to dry then spend some time chatting with Sam
in the sunshine. Asked whether i'd like to stop for supper, I accept
and fortunately have time to cycle into the old town and buy a bottle
of Valencian wine as a contribution.
Spend rest of afternoon and evening chatting, eating, drinking and
listening to music until early hours.
Absolutely wonderful time. Retire to very cold tent.
Weds 18th
With regret I decide to move on. In a very short time i'd grown to
really like Sam and it's hard to say goodbye. Go to pay for campsite
where they charge me for one night until I point out it is the 18th
not 16th. Head along minor roads through orange groves towards
Castello, down to the coast then on to Benicasim. Nice sunny day but
cool wind. Find campsite, pitch up and go for walk. Spot two chaps
scaling stonework of railway bridge with ropes, I presume they use it
as a practice wall.
Thurs 19th
Nice and sunny so decide to stop here an extra day and catch up with
correspondence. Go for morning stroll into old town first to look
around. Charge up PDA for a while then update blog, journal, write
letter and emails before setting off into town in evening to find
suitable WI-FI spot. Couldn't find anywhere to connect using PDA. It
seems quite fussy about what it can use.
Fri 20th
Cloudy morning threatening rain. Pack and start climb out of
Benicasim onto N340. Very busy and unscenic. Lots of lorries roaring
by and it gets unnerving at times. As road climbs inland weather
starts to deteriorate. By time halfway through journey at Alcala de
Xivert i'm cycling through rain and grey mist with cold north wind and
perpetual streams of lorries. Clouds so low I can see little of
surroundings. It's just head down, ignore everything and press on.
Not pleasant. Rain stops and weather clears 14k from journeys end.
Find campsite at Benicarlo and book in. "we're not used to campers
this time of year, we don't have any prices". She checks last years
price list. 10 euros. " do I get a discount for insanity" I ask. 8
euros. " ok, in that case i'll buy some milk as well". 9 euros.
Picking up a tin of something to eat I say I'll buy some dinner as
well. "we can do you egg and chips if you like"
"wonderful , i'll stop an extra day".
Start to pitch and chap offers hammer. Start to brew tea and chap
invites me over for wine. It's reassuring that after such dreadful
journeys, things usually happen to raise the spirits again. Have tea,
go next door for wine then head to café for food. Later. sitting and
chatting at bar, same woman from reception is serving.
"where are you from?" the chap next to me asks.
"Leicester"
"Do you know Julies Cycles?"
(a shop well known to Leicester cyclists)
"yes, it's just round the corner from where I live. Bought a lot of
stuff for this trip there" I reply.'
"Well that's Julie" he says pointing at woman behind bar.
Talking to Julie later I find she started shop when 17, sold it much
later to her brother, moved to Spain and is now running this campsite
with her husband. Strange coincidence.
Sat 21st feb
Dull, cold start to the day. Decide to stay put. Walk into Benicarlo
for supplies as day warms up. Messy town but lively. Fair amount of
traffic chaos as they're pedestrianising the centre. Get what I need,
wander around following nose for a while then head back. A couple,
Norman and Jackie, invite me over for champagne and freshly pressed
orange juice. Sit in sunshine chatting for a while. Bite to eat then
off to bar to try WI-FI, no joy still. Proper laptop computers don't
seem to have a problem. A spanish girl sits at my table. She
introduces herself and asks my name. I reply, but from there on
communication breaks down. She doesn't speak english, my spanish is
totally inadequate. Something iabout her makes me uncomfortable.
She's edgy, seems constantly on the verge of tears. Depressed,
frustrated? I smile politely, say goodbye and leave.
