Thurs 18th Dec
Set out east on N340, fairly easy going and not too busy to start with. Weather brilliant and cycle in just t-shirt for first time in a while. Just past Nerja, about 10k later, things start to get hillier. Fortunately most of the traffic heads off to the autovia at this point so for 8 to 10k I often have the road to myself. It's hard work as the road winds up, down and around the coast but worth it for the peace and views. Too soon the autovia traffic rejoins the N340 and life becomes more hectic. For the next 16k I wobble up hills and speed down whilst cars and lorries squeeze by. There are two fairly long tunnels where I switch on lights and get through as quick as possible; the noise echoing around the tunnel as lorries pass by is horrendous. By the time I reach the final descent into Salobrena and cross the river delta, past Motril, to campsite at Carchuna, a total distance of about 58k or 35 miles, my legs have about had it. This area is covered in immense polythene greenhouses; the steep hillsides are terraced and covered with them. All i've seen growing so far are courgettes. Get paperback from reception and spend evening reading and relaxing.
Fri 19th Dec
Decide that this is a suitable site to stop at for a few days whilst I sort out a few things. Facilities are good, price is reasonable and there's free wi-fi at the bar. Spend day pottering, emailing, washing fleece liner and reading. Limited reading on offer as most books are in german or dutch (or similar)
Sat 20th Dec
Glorious day so take a walk into nearby Carchuna. Not a particularly interesting place so head back and walk west along the beach. Although not of the golden sand variety, more brown sand and shingle, it is geologically interesting so spent rest of day wandering along the shoreline in the sunshine picking up pebbles. Wasn't sure if I could handle the stress but I managed.
Sun 21st Dec
Shortest day of year so a sort of turning point. Spend morning walking about 3k east along beach to Calahonda. Slightly more interesting than Carchuna but mainly modern apartments, many empty. As it's sunday quite a few folk are about promenading or cycling in the sun. Church bells ring, not in any particular sequence but just spun round with gay abandon creating an atmospheric if somewhat unmusical background. Back at the site many spaniards have arrived for the weekend to use their permanent caravans. Many of these sites offer substantial discounts if you stay for long periods. As an example, if you stay for 30 days at this site it is 70% discount. As they usually arrive as a family and are quite a loud, talkative race things can get noisy.
Mon 22nd Dec
Still awaiting info to sort out tax so wash a few clothes then walk into Carchuna to get a few provisions. Manage to find a hefty tome in reception to read; "atlas shrugged" by Ayn Rand. Chill out and read for rest of afternoon and evening.
Tues 23rd
Decided that I will stop here over christmas. I hope to meet up with two friends, Neal and Carol, about 4 to 5 days further along coast. As I aim to be there end of December I can idle away a few days here.
Now have information I need to sort out tax so can settle down and decide what to do for 25th.
Weds 24th Dec
Walk along beach into Calahonda and back then spend evening reading. In evening, Christmas carols are played over tannoy and santa tours campsite with entourage, handing out free bottle of wine for blokes (rioja) and flowers (pointsettia?- red and green leafs) for ladies. Nice surprise.
Thur 25th
Very sunny and warm day. Spend most of christmas day on beach before heading back for dinner and wine. Finish book in evening. A novel with a philosophical background. Not a book i'd recommend as you have to wade through a lot of tripe for the few scraps of meat worth chewing over. Wind really picks up in evening and noise keeps me awake until early hours.
Fri 26th
Time to move on. Head along coast to just past Adra. Very hilly again as road winds its way around coast. Not sure if 8 days of lazing around have helped as legs about shot by time I get there. Very scenic coast; dramatic and interesting rather than pretty. All along this coast it is layers of tan and grey sedimentary rocks, piled up and contorted as North Africa slowly ploughs into Spain. The grey rock has a mineral in it, possibly Mica, that occasionally make rock faces, boulders and pebbles shine like polished aluminium. Walk round Adra to get supplies and see remains of fort there. On to campsite which is surrounded by polythene greenhouses again. It's basic but quite attractive and friendly. Just get pitched and started on dinner when German woman wanders over and gives me can of beer. Just have time to say thanks before she wanders off again. Unusually, two cycle tourists turn up. First i've seen since Jim and Marcia in San Sebastian, north Spaink.
Sat 27th Dec
Follow coast east towards El Ejido, again very scenic. Thought the next stretch would be fairly easy as it's straight roads on the map. Unfortunately a strong headwind keeps me in lowest 3 gears all the way to campsite just west of Almeria. Scenery is grotty for most of journey, just acres of polythene greenhouse again. Bit of variety and interest as pass through the urbanization at Roquetas de Mar and Aquadulce then back to rocky coast to campsite at Garrofa.
Sun 28th dec
Wind really picked up during night. Campsite is in small valley and gusts would rush down like an express train. When the gusts died down the nearby autovia and N340 supplied the noise before the next gust came. Ground is hard packed sand and gravel and, as tent inner is mainly mesh, the fine sand was driven under the flysheet, through the mesh and into tent. Got very litte sleep and had to resecure tent pegs several times. In the morning everything was coated in fine sand; sleeping bag, pillow, clothes. It was in my hair, nose and ears, everywhere. To top it all it starts raining. Clean up kit and myself and press on as I want to pass through Almeria whilst traffic is slight. Cycle last few k of rocky coast before the castle in Almeria comes into view. As hoped there is not much traffic and have pleasant ride along seafront. Follow coast road before heading inland towards the Sierra del Cabo de Gata which loom up in front. Rain has eased off but still overcast and windy. After steady climbs across mountains I reach coast on other side at Los Escullos then down into valley at Rodalquilar. This is all national park and it really is nice as pass through valley with mountains all around. Still many wild flowers out. Leg burning climb out of valley to viewpoint on headland. 40 or so mountain bikers here also enjoying view. See chap with lightweight racer walking up the hill I've just cycled up. What a sensible chap I thought and walked last 100 metres to top of pass. Fast descent and a few more climbs before reaching destination at Las Negras. Find out campsite is in next valley to south. Just can't manage final steep climb so walk to top then coast down valley side in a series of hairpins to site.
Mon 29th
Wonderful windless noiseless night, just the soft chirping of whatever it is that chirps softly at night. Weather improved so will stay here today and recuperate. Friendly site and chatted to quite a few folk about pros and cons of motor homes. Many are also keen walkers and this is an ideal place for that, it really is scenic around here. Have relaxing stroll along clifftops to village for days supplies then back to service bike and wash remaining sand off things. Have chat with couple of young swedish lads who are from a sort of hippy commune about 5k north at San Pedro. As with many other folk i've met they were surprised and interested in the idea of touring on a small wheel folding bike.
Tues 30th Dec
Windy but sunny. Set off for Mojocar. No suitable road along coast so head inland to Fernan Perez. Although hilly it wasn't too bad until halfway there, then saw road winding up mountainside ahead of me. Daunting but no other option so get on with it. After many rests eventually reach top where there are superb views back towards Cabo de Gata. Down into Fernan Perez then NE along wide valley towards Carboneras on the coast. A few k on from Carboneras when heart sank. In the distance I could see road twisting up and around high mountain; sometimes carved into the side, other times hanging precariously off it supported on arches. I'd never encountered anything like this before and initial thought was 'no way' as legs were already tired, but with mix of walking, cycling and resting I finally reached the top where it was blowing a gale. Many smaller hills followed and when finally reached campsite at Mojocar and pitched up I could hardly walk as I set off to get dinner.
Weds 31st Dec
Leave tent and kit at camp and cycle into Garrucha to find Neal and Carol's apartment. Although I had the address I had no idea where in Garrucha it was so ask dustman. As he put my notebook right up to his nose and squinted I realised i'd made the wrong choice. Found another bloke and he directed me to where he thought it was. Found apartment and rang bell but no reply so left bike on front and went for look round. Returned to see Neal and Carol leaning over apartment terrace looking at bike. Neal had just popped out to get better mobile reception, seen bike and wondered whether it was mine. This turned out to be fortunate as we later found the apartment bell was either not working or connected to a different apartment. Hoist bike and myself over terrace wall and celebrate arrival with a beer. After describing route I took yesterday from Las Negras to Mojocar they told me they'd driven exactly the same route. Somehow we had missed each other.
N and C had friends coming over for New Years Eve so we shot out in car to get food and drinks before driving inland for a beer at a hiltop bar. Seeing the hills and roads inland made me glad i'd stuck to the coast. Quite dramatic views from bar with conical hills rising from flat plane. Later in evening the instantly likeable Rosie and Ken arrive. As Rosie was a hairdresser she'd brought along her kit and trimmed my hair. After dinner we go to local bar and have a few drinks. Eventually get to bed about 4-ish.
Thurs 1st Jan 2009
HAPPY, HEALTHY AND PROSPEROUS NEW YEAR TO EVERYBODY
Drive down to Mojocar to collect tent etc then inland to Moorish village high in mountains. Most of the properties have been renovated as holiday homes. Many had brightly tiled domes on the flat roof which is apparently to aid cooling. Parts of village had collapsed in the past due to crumbly nature of the rock and steepness of mountainside. After staring at incredible views we go for best, freshest tasting pizzas i've had at one of the restaurants in the village.
Fri 2nd Jan
Neal and I take trip to DIY shop as switch on water heater playing up. Big Alladins cave of a place but didn't have quite the same switch. I bought stainless steel 1 litre water bottle so wouldn't have to strap plastic or cardboard milk cartons to bike. The last time I pitched tent I found everything soaked in milk where container had leaked. I lazed around rest of day. All suffering from some sort of cold; Carols got bad cough, Neals got the shivers and i've got beginings of cough.
Sat 3rd jan
Neal and Carol set off home but they've kindly said I can stay on at the apartment if I wish. As i'm in no rush to head North and into bad weather I gladly accept. Wise decision as by end of day cold really beginning to take hold. Joints ache, coughs and sneezes and generally under the weather.
Sun 4th jan - Sat 10th jan
Not much to report. Really had stinker of cold; streaming nose, shivers, joint aches, headaches, cough, little sleep. Everything seems to have hit at once. Just stopped in, read books, played guitar and watched videos.
Only aspect of interest is collecting water. Although there is tap water; for drinking water you have to take a stroll into the village. You either buy it in bottles from shops or there are a couple of small public buildings with taps which have a certified water supply. Every few days I have to take empty containers down, fill 'em up and lug them back.
Sun 11th Jan
Cold beginning to clear at last. Weather not been good for past few days and raining today but take stroll along seafront in morning then start to catch up on chores. Apart from usual stuff like washing clothes the 4 months of cycling and camping has taken its toll on kit and much of it needs repairing, cleaning etc.
Monday, 12 January 2009
Thursday, 18 December 2008
You CAN cycle to Algeciras
Sat 6th dec
Girl in reception says its rainy for next few days so get washing done and tumble dried whilst having breakfast. Try using camp wi-fi at 10 euros for 24 hrs but my PDA doesn't seem to want to play so get money back. Sun breaks through so walk into El Rocio. What an intriquing place. Sand roads and whitewashed houses with hitching posts outside just like in the spagetti westerns. Quite a few folk trotting round on horses or horse drawn open carriage. Very lively atmosphere with groups of folk singing on the sidewalks accompanied usually by a drum and occasionally a guitar. Shops selling flamenco gear and leather boots etc. Place seems to be popular with Spanish as well as foreign tourist. From what i can gather the place is famous for some saint or virgin or somesuch. As it's a saturday its busy, I should imagine it's chaos in high season. Find free unsecured wi-fi so update blog. Stroll back to camp and have beer whilst writing up journal.
Sun 7th dec
Overcast with light showers as I set out for Seville. Fairly easy ride but gets hilly nearer Seville. Usual difficulties getting in with limited info as have to stick to signposted routes which are usually main roads. Hair raising moment crossing over 3 lanes of traffic to get onto correct slip road. Get to centre which is busy and quite attractive. Find tourist info but it was closed. I was 10 mins too late. I'd managed to get plan of centre from a garage so worked my way through old part, past the bull ring and various other historic things, to the other side then to road that I thought campsite might be on. Ask a couple of police who tell me i'm on right road but they weren't sure how far it was. Travel a bit further and ask girl; "straight on and you'll see a sign". Travel further, no sign. I'm now out past the airport so I know i've gone too far. Call in garage who tell me its closed down despite the fact its shown on the map I got from tourist info in Huelva. Brilliant. Ask about nearby hostels or hotels. No joy. Best bet they tell me is to head back into Seville and follow signs to Malaga. Back I go after taking detour to get to other side of Autovia, which is a bit like a motorway. First hotel I find is 4 star; would prefer something cheaper. Ask some chaps nearby. One says he's seen sign for 45 euros nearer centre. Off I go along autovia towards centre. Get a puncture and bike begins to wobble all over the place. Due to crash barriers only place I can find is a little glass and litter strewn triangle between autovia and slip road. Pull onto it, dismantle luggage and start changing inner tube. Its getting dark, its raining and cars are hooting as they pass by either side. Fortunately the cause of the puncture was obvious as I had to pul it out of the tyre with pliers. Finally get it done and set off again. Find hotel advertising 45 euros and pull in. Reception says it'll be 87 euros. Apparently 45 euros is only on special days and today's not one. Ah well, i'm exhausted, wet and grubby, at least I can have a bath, watch telly and cut toenails, which are in danger of snagging the front wheel spokes.
Mon 8th
Breakfast on bacon, eggs, croissants and coffee before setting off for the station, which is fairly close. I had thought about finding cheaper accommodation and spending a day exploring Seville but its grey and raining and I can't be bothered. Get ticket to Cadiz and look round shops till train departs at 11:00. Not a bad journey as train travels over plain south of Seville before passing through Jerez and by Harveys (of Bristol Cream fame).
Arrive in Cadiz about 13:00 and set off to tourist info. Tell them I want to cycle to Algeciras and would like campsite info and a good map. Much shaking of heads. "You can't cycle to Algeciras, there's only two roads and it's too mountainous" she says. (One of the roads goes inland with no campsites so that only leaves the other road). Eventually get a photocopied sheet of campsites in Cadiz region with opening times and a map which is next to useless. Checking campsites I find only half are open all year which is a bit different to most of them as I was told in Huelva. Pick one and then find way out of Cadiz on A48. Very busy but nice wide hard shoulder to cycle on so not too bad and make good time. Branch off onto N430 and get to chosen campsite. Looks ok, new toilet block and lush grass to camp on instead of the usual damp sand. Looks like they've had a lot of rain as quite a few pitches are flooded. Thought afterwards that I rather rushed through Cadiz, but all these places are beginning to look the same now. Also the campsite directions i've got are very basic such as 'Ctra Puerto Pesquero, km 2' which basically means 2km down the road to Puerto Pesquero. That would be ok if Puerto Pesquero was on my map but its too insignificant for michelin to mark on, so I like to allow plenty of time to find these places.
Tues 9th dec
Well, nice campsite but unbelievable noise in evening. Since entering Iberia the constant barking of dogs in the evening is so common a quiet night merits a note in my journal. This was in a different league though. First the dogs started, setting off cockerels, then donkeys, cows and what I think were pigs. You could hear the noise radiate out as they set each other off. Then they'd start again, what a racket. I've got earplugs but they're not comfortable to sleep in. Same thing happened this morning.
Didn't fancy spending another night with that noise so decided to head south 20k to Veje; that would make a fairly easy run to Tarifa. Starting to get hilly now with mountains up ahead; quite dramatic with their cloud covered peaks. Site at Vejer seems very isolated. As I get near I ask bloke if its open, he replies in perfect English that he doesn't know but those at Tarifa are and I would have the wind behind me today. Follow his advice and set off on the 40k to next potential site. Halfway there I pass through a wide valley that is littered with wind turbines, probably 100 or so. This place obviously channels the wind so very glad it is behind me. Very black and threatening rain as reach site. Pitch in sheltered spot as wind really picks up and temperature drops.
Weds 10th dec
Wind really howled through the treetops and very cold last night but no dogs to disturb sleep. Looks like being a nice day today though. Get a bit off handwashing done and hung out to dry then cycle the 11k into Tarifa. Route very scenic and lined with kite surf schools nearer the town. Tarifa quite busy and full of surf shops; enough for one shop to proudly proclaim 'this is NOT a surf shop'. Very tip of Tarifa is a military zone so couldn't go there, and castle was closed but still pleasant wandering round and looking at the cloud covered moroccan mountains in the distance.
Cycle back against brisk wind and continue past camp to beach. Car park here has quite a few campervans parked, ranging from retired couples with posh jobs to young dudes with radical haircuts and beat up old vans with surfboards. Although sunny it wasn't warm enough to sunbathe. Back to camp and put bedding out to air at last. Hijack veranda, table and chair of nearby empty cabin and sit in sun to have lunch. Nice to sit on chair instead of hunched in tent for a change. Clean and dry various other bits of kit (damp sand gets everywhere). Bike is absolutely filthy so clean that down best as I can then oil gears and chain. Finally, repair puncture I got in Seville. Boring stuff I know but life on the road is not all glamour and excitement you know. All in all a relaxing day which is just what I wanted as next stage looks as though it might be hard work judging from the map.
Thurs 11th Dec
No wind so the dogs decided to start again.
Back towards Tarifa then NE towards Algeciras. Long hard climb of 340 metres to Mirador El Estrecho but fabulous view from top. Stop for well deserved beer at café there. 2k decent then another slog up to 320 metres then long descent towards Algeciras. Good views of Gibraltar but very built up. Entering Algeciras is an unpleasant business with all the traffic and dust. Road turns into autovia and life becomes very unpleasant. Traffic roaring by at 100kph - 120kph and sometimes no hard shoulder to ride on. Came upon same situation as in Seville, three lanes of traffic and I need the left hand lane so have to cut across two lanes with cars and lorries thundering along either side of me. I cycle on hoping they're paying attention. Frightening. Things eventually quieten down a little past San Roque and eventually I pull off on side road to campsite. Bit of a grim campsite though, charge me 20 euros for one night; last site was 15 euros for 2 nights. First time i've been charged for having a bicycle.
A lovely morning but dreadful afternoon.
So despite what tourist info said in Cadiz, you can cycle to Algeciras, it's occasionally tough, unpleasant going, but there's some really nice scenery on the way. On the whole though I really wouldn't recommend it.
Fri 12th Dec
V cold night, took a while to get warm. Large campsite but virtually deserted, lots of empty caravans. Raining in morning but I had pitched under an existing canopy so tent stayed dry. Rain stops so set off along autovia then onto A7 into Estepona. A7 follows coast so pleasant if busy road and I pul off whenever I can to look at the views. Lots of shops with English names along the way. Saw english bookshop but it was on other side of autovia with no crossing for quite a way. Tourist office map shows campsite just before Estepona but no sign of it. Ask girl, she doesn't know but rings friend, friend not there so still don't know. Travel a bit further and see tourist info, call in and get directions, its 8k beyond town. Again the maps I have prove innaccurate. Get list of other sites in region which will last me up to Malaga. Back onto autovia and to site. Very pleasant receptionist tells me I can stop in this empty caravan for same price as camping. Take a look but it's dirty, damp and it smells, same as my tent really but at least I know where that's been. Decline offer and pitch up.
Sat 13th Dec
Weather looking a bit grim this morning so decided to stop extra day and explore Estepona. I have a map of the town from tourist office which shows a tourist trail. Cycle 7k to centre and walk round trail. Very little left of old town as its been absorbed by newer developments. Bit of a castle wall and a minaret that is now a clock tower. Town itself was quite nice with a main square and central fountain surrounded by orange trees still with fruit. Promenade along front very tropical with palms and wooden bar and restaurant shacks on the beach.
Looks like rain coming in from mountains so head back. Just make it back to tent as it starts. Soon turns into torrential downpour. I'd borrowed paperback novel from reception so started reading. Noticed puddles start to form around tent then a puddle forming in the tent. I'd patched up the holes from the exploding stove incident but seems i'd aquired a few other small holes in the groundsheet. Mop up water and shove bits of folded cardboard under groundsheet to raise holes above ground level. The ground is now sodden and the sand is becoming very soft and squishy. Wind is now starting to pull tent pegs from soft ground. Prepare everything for quick exit in case conditions worsen then doze fully clothed for a while. Rain finally stops at 1 in the morning; pay much needed visit to toilet block, brew first cup of tea since getting back, refix loose tent pegs then cover wet area of groundsheet with carrier bags so sleeping bag doesn't get wet and grab some sleep.
Sun 14th Dec
Ground sheet under foam sleeping mat was sodden but everything else dry. Exterior of tent and all gear in vestibule covered in sandy mud so decide to pack up as I clean up and move on.
Back onto autovia then through centre of Marbella where a road race is causing diversions and hold ups. Out of centre and back onto autovia to Puerto Cabopino for campsite. Very busy site and obviously popular; two restaurants, daily activities and what have you. Sun starts to break through cloud so pitch up and put wet kit out to dry. Take stroll down to beach where windsurfers are having fun with brisk wind, leaping into air off wave tops. Puerto Cabopino itself looks very nice tucked between autovia and beach. Rain coming in again so head back. Starts raining 16:30 but next few days supposed to be fine. Get early night to catch up on sleep.
Mon 15th Dec
Looks like a sunny day but for several days now there has been a bitterly cold northerly wind. Chatting with regular visitors to these parts it seems i've picked a particularly bad year to come. Most say they have never known it to be so cold and wet. As one chap said "we were on the beach sunbathing this time last year". Now the beaches are deserted. Still, probably not as bad as UK.
Set off along autovia to Fuengirola. Wind strong and blustery and have struggle sometimes to avoid being blown into crash barriers on one side and traffic on other; not nice. Things improve as I get off autovia and onto N340 through Fuengirola and along coast to Torremolinos. Actually have time and space now to stop and look at views. This bit of coast is like one stretched out city of shops, apartments and hotels but the coastline when you can see it is attractive. Find tourist office in Torremolinos and enquire about campsite. Its on the east side so take leisurely ride along seafront and then inland a bit. Quite a small site surrounded by apartments and fairly basic. Camping in this part of Spain is quite expensive for what you get at 15-20 euros for a night. This is also where my current campsite info runs out so i'm hoping I can get details for next leg from Malaga.
Tue 16th Dec
Chatting about weather to a couple on the site it seems a depression over northern Europe is causing the unusually bad weather. However they say it will have moved on by Thursday and normal weather will resume shortly after.
Back onto autovia then into Malaga. Very large cruise ship in port. Wend my way into centre and the big brown bruiser of a cathedral. Through tiny alleys to a wide pedestrianised avenue of shops. At intervals are restored vintage automobile engines displayed like works of art in glass cases on pedestals. Call in tourist office where they tell me to bring bicycle in as well due to amount of theft in the area. They haven't anything useful so go to bookshop and with some trepidation leave bike outside. Finally find one copy of Spanish campsites guide and at 10 euros not bad. Slowly head out of city at same time as the cruise ship leaves port and I watch it disappear over the horizon as I head east along coast. I was pleasantly suprised by Malaga, it had more style than I imagined.
Most of this stretch I can now use the N340 which, although a main road, is much more relaxing and allows me to stop and admire the scenery. Also see many of the beacon towers which line this coast. Although it is almost a continuous urban development along here there are nice views of coast and snow capped mountains every so often. Press on to Torrox Costa where i'd been told there was a site by a chap in Torremolinos. Its up very steep short hill that forces me to get off and walk for first time since England. Wind picks up whilst having dinnerin evening and soon turns really furious. I'm in fairly sheltered spot so only get rattled round a little. Some caravans get their awnings ripped away. Goes on till midnight and it's difficult to sleep with the noise.
Weds 17th Dec
Looks like sunny day so decide to stop in Torrox Costa. The bike fell over in Malaga damaging centre rack so I repair that and get usual chores done like washing clothes etc. Can also plan the next few stages of trip now I have the info. The days rest will be useful as, by the look of the map, the next stage will be tough going.
Girl in reception says its rainy for next few days so get washing done and tumble dried whilst having breakfast. Try using camp wi-fi at 10 euros for 24 hrs but my PDA doesn't seem to want to play so get money back. Sun breaks through so walk into El Rocio. What an intriquing place. Sand roads and whitewashed houses with hitching posts outside just like in the spagetti westerns. Quite a few folk trotting round on horses or horse drawn open carriage. Very lively atmosphere with groups of folk singing on the sidewalks accompanied usually by a drum and occasionally a guitar. Shops selling flamenco gear and leather boots etc. Place seems to be popular with Spanish as well as foreign tourist. From what i can gather the place is famous for some saint or virgin or somesuch. As it's a saturday its busy, I should imagine it's chaos in high season. Find free unsecured wi-fi so update blog. Stroll back to camp and have beer whilst writing up journal.
Sun 7th dec
Overcast with light showers as I set out for Seville. Fairly easy ride but gets hilly nearer Seville. Usual difficulties getting in with limited info as have to stick to signposted routes which are usually main roads. Hair raising moment crossing over 3 lanes of traffic to get onto correct slip road. Get to centre which is busy and quite attractive. Find tourist info but it was closed. I was 10 mins too late. I'd managed to get plan of centre from a garage so worked my way through old part, past the bull ring and various other historic things, to the other side then to road that I thought campsite might be on. Ask a couple of police who tell me i'm on right road but they weren't sure how far it was. Travel a bit further and ask girl; "straight on and you'll see a sign". Travel further, no sign. I'm now out past the airport so I know i've gone too far. Call in garage who tell me its closed down despite the fact its shown on the map I got from tourist info in Huelva. Brilliant. Ask about nearby hostels or hotels. No joy. Best bet they tell me is to head back into Seville and follow signs to Malaga. Back I go after taking detour to get to other side of Autovia, which is a bit like a motorway. First hotel I find is 4 star; would prefer something cheaper. Ask some chaps nearby. One says he's seen sign for 45 euros nearer centre. Off I go along autovia towards centre. Get a puncture and bike begins to wobble all over the place. Due to crash barriers only place I can find is a little glass and litter strewn triangle between autovia and slip road. Pull onto it, dismantle luggage and start changing inner tube. Its getting dark, its raining and cars are hooting as they pass by either side. Fortunately the cause of the puncture was obvious as I had to pul it out of the tyre with pliers. Finally get it done and set off again. Find hotel advertising 45 euros and pull in. Reception says it'll be 87 euros. Apparently 45 euros is only on special days and today's not one. Ah well, i'm exhausted, wet and grubby, at least I can have a bath, watch telly and cut toenails, which are in danger of snagging the front wheel spokes.
Mon 8th
Breakfast on bacon, eggs, croissants and coffee before setting off for the station, which is fairly close. I had thought about finding cheaper accommodation and spending a day exploring Seville but its grey and raining and I can't be bothered. Get ticket to Cadiz and look round shops till train departs at 11:00. Not a bad journey as train travels over plain south of Seville before passing through Jerez and by Harveys (of Bristol Cream fame).
Arrive in Cadiz about 13:00 and set off to tourist info. Tell them I want to cycle to Algeciras and would like campsite info and a good map. Much shaking of heads. "You can't cycle to Algeciras, there's only two roads and it's too mountainous" she says. (One of the roads goes inland with no campsites so that only leaves the other road). Eventually get a photocopied sheet of campsites in Cadiz region with opening times and a map which is next to useless. Checking campsites I find only half are open all year which is a bit different to most of them as I was told in Huelva. Pick one and then find way out of Cadiz on A48. Very busy but nice wide hard shoulder to cycle on so not too bad and make good time. Branch off onto N430 and get to chosen campsite. Looks ok, new toilet block and lush grass to camp on instead of the usual damp sand. Looks like they've had a lot of rain as quite a few pitches are flooded. Thought afterwards that I rather rushed through Cadiz, but all these places are beginning to look the same now. Also the campsite directions i've got are very basic such as 'Ctra Puerto Pesquero, km 2' which basically means 2km down the road to Puerto Pesquero. That would be ok if Puerto Pesquero was on my map but its too insignificant for michelin to mark on, so I like to allow plenty of time to find these places.
Tues 9th dec
Well, nice campsite but unbelievable noise in evening. Since entering Iberia the constant barking of dogs in the evening is so common a quiet night merits a note in my journal. This was in a different league though. First the dogs started, setting off cockerels, then donkeys, cows and what I think were pigs. You could hear the noise radiate out as they set each other off. Then they'd start again, what a racket. I've got earplugs but they're not comfortable to sleep in. Same thing happened this morning.
Didn't fancy spending another night with that noise so decided to head south 20k to Veje; that would make a fairly easy run to Tarifa. Starting to get hilly now with mountains up ahead; quite dramatic with their cloud covered peaks. Site at Vejer seems very isolated. As I get near I ask bloke if its open, he replies in perfect English that he doesn't know but those at Tarifa are and I would have the wind behind me today. Follow his advice and set off on the 40k to next potential site. Halfway there I pass through a wide valley that is littered with wind turbines, probably 100 or so. This place obviously channels the wind so very glad it is behind me. Very black and threatening rain as reach site. Pitch in sheltered spot as wind really picks up and temperature drops.
Weds 10th dec
Wind really howled through the treetops and very cold last night but no dogs to disturb sleep. Looks like being a nice day today though. Get a bit off handwashing done and hung out to dry then cycle the 11k into Tarifa. Route very scenic and lined with kite surf schools nearer the town. Tarifa quite busy and full of surf shops; enough for one shop to proudly proclaim 'this is NOT a surf shop'. Very tip of Tarifa is a military zone so couldn't go there, and castle was closed but still pleasant wandering round and looking at the cloud covered moroccan mountains in the distance.
Cycle back against brisk wind and continue past camp to beach. Car park here has quite a few campervans parked, ranging from retired couples with posh jobs to young dudes with radical haircuts and beat up old vans with surfboards. Although sunny it wasn't warm enough to sunbathe. Back to camp and put bedding out to air at last. Hijack veranda, table and chair of nearby empty cabin and sit in sun to have lunch. Nice to sit on chair instead of hunched in tent for a change. Clean and dry various other bits of kit (damp sand gets everywhere). Bike is absolutely filthy so clean that down best as I can then oil gears and chain. Finally, repair puncture I got in Seville. Boring stuff I know but life on the road is not all glamour and excitement you know. All in all a relaxing day which is just what I wanted as next stage looks as though it might be hard work judging from the map.
Thurs 11th Dec
No wind so the dogs decided to start again.
Back towards Tarifa then NE towards Algeciras. Long hard climb of 340 metres to Mirador El Estrecho but fabulous view from top. Stop for well deserved beer at café there. 2k decent then another slog up to 320 metres then long descent towards Algeciras. Good views of Gibraltar but very built up. Entering Algeciras is an unpleasant business with all the traffic and dust. Road turns into autovia and life becomes very unpleasant. Traffic roaring by at 100kph - 120kph and sometimes no hard shoulder to ride on. Came upon same situation as in Seville, three lanes of traffic and I need the left hand lane so have to cut across two lanes with cars and lorries thundering along either side of me. I cycle on hoping they're paying attention. Frightening. Things eventually quieten down a little past San Roque and eventually I pull off on side road to campsite. Bit of a grim campsite though, charge me 20 euros for one night; last site was 15 euros for 2 nights. First time i've been charged for having a bicycle.
A lovely morning but dreadful afternoon.
So despite what tourist info said in Cadiz, you can cycle to Algeciras, it's occasionally tough, unpleasant going, but there's some really nice scenery on the way. On the whole though I really wouldn't recommend it.
Fri 12th Dec
V cold night, took a while to get warm. Large campsite but virtually deserted, lots of empty caravans. Raining in morning but I had pitched under an existing canopy so tent stayed dry. Rain stops so set off along autovia then onto A7 into Estepona. A7 follows coast so pleasant if busy road and I pul off whenever I can to look at the views. Lots of shops with English names along the way. Saw english bookshop but it was on other side of autovia with no crossing for quite a way. Tourist office map shows campsite just before Estepona but no sign of it. Ask girl, she doesn't know but rings friend, friend not there so still don't know. Travel a bit further and see tourist info, call in and get directions, its 8k beyond town. Again the maps I have prove innaccurate. Get list of other sites in region which will last me up to Malaga. Back onto autovia and to site. Very pleasant receptionist tells me I can stop in this empty caravan for same price as camping. Take a look but it's dirty, damp and it smells, same as my tent really but at least I know where that's been. Decline offer and pitch up.
Sat 13th Dec
Weather looking a bit grim this morning so decided to stop extra day and explore Estepona. I have a map of the town from tourist office which shows a tourist trail. Cycle 7k to centre and walk round trail. Very little left of old town as its been absorbed by newer developments. Bit of a castle wall and a minaret that is now a clock tower. Town itself was quite nice with a main square and central fountain surrounded by orange trees still with fruit. Promenade along front very tropical with palms and wooden bar and restaurant shacks on the beach.
Looks like rain coming in from mountains so head back. Just make it back to tent as it starts. Soon turns into torrential downpour. I'd borrowed paperback novel from reception so started reading. Noticed puddles start to form around tent then a puddle forming in the tent. I'd patched up the holes from the exploding stove incident but seems i'd aquired a few other small holes in the groundsheet. Mop up water and shove bits of folded cardboard under groundsheet to raise holes above ground level. The ground is now sodden and the sand is becoming very soft and squishy. Wind is now starting to pull tent pegs from soft ground. Prepare everything for quick exit in case conditions worsen then doze fully clothed for a while. Rain finally stops at 1 in the morning; pay much needed visit to toilet block, brew first cup of tea since getting back, refix loose tent pegs then cover wet area of groundsheet with carrier bags so sleeping bag doesn't get wet and grab some sleep.
Sun 14th Dec
Ground sheet under foam sleeping mat was sodden but everything else dry. Exterior of tent and all gear in vestibule covered in sandy mud so decide to pack up as I clean up and move on.
Back onto autovia then through centre of Marbella where a road race is causing diversions and hold ups. Out of centre and back onto autovia to Puerto Cabopino for campsite. Very busy site and obviously popular; two restaurants, daily activities and what have you. Sun starts to break through cloud so pitch up and put wet kit out to dry. Take stroll down to beach where windsurfers are having fun with brisk wind, leaping into air off wave tops. Puerto Cabopino itself looks very nice tucked between autovia and beach. Rain coming in again so head back. Starts raining 16:30 but next few days supposed to be fine. Get early night to catch up on sleep.
Mon 15th Dec
Looks like a sunny day but for several days now there has been a bitterly cold northerly wind. Chatting with regular visitors to these parts it seems i've picked a particularly bad year to come. Most say they have never known it to be so cold and wet. As one chap said "we were on the beach sunbathing this time last year". Now the beaches are deserted. Still, probably not as bad as UK.
Set off along autovia to Fuengirola. Wind strong and blustery and have struggle sometimes to avoid being blown into crash barriers on one side and traffic on other; not nice. Things improve as I get off autovia and onto N340 through Fuengirola and along coast to Torremolinos. Actually have time and space now to stop and look at views. This bit of coast is like one stretched out city of shops, apartments and hotels but the coastline when you can see it is attractive. Find tourist office in Torremolinos and enquire about campsite. Its on the east side so take leisurely ride along seafront and then inland a bit. Quite a small site surrounded by apartments and fairly basic. Camping in this part of Spain is quite expensive for what you get at 15-20 euros for a night. This is also where my current campsite info runs out so i'm hoping I can get details for next leg from Malaga.
Tue 16th Dec
Chatting about weather to a couple on the site it seems a depression over northern Europe is causing the unusually bad weather. However they say it will have moved on by Thursday and normal weather will resume shortly after.
Back onto autovia then into Malaga. Very large cruise ship in port. Wend my way into centre and the big brown bruiser of a cathedral. Through tiny alleys to a wide pedestrianised avenue of shops. At intervals are restored vintage automobile engines displayed like works of art in glass cases on pedestals. Call in tourist office where they tell me to bring bicycle in as well due to amount of theft in the area. They haven't anything useful so go to bookshop and with some trepidation leave bike outside. Finally find one copy of Spanish campsites guide and at 10 euros not bad. Slowly head out of city at same time as the cruise ship leaves port and I watch it disappear over the horizon as I head east along coast. I was pleasantly suprised by Malaga, it had more style than I imagined.
Most of this stretch I can now use the N340 which, although a main road, is much more relaxing and allows me to stop and admire the scenery. Also see many of the beacon towers which line this coast. Although it is almost a continuous urban development along here there are nice views of coast and snow capped mountains every so often. Press on to Torrox Costa where i'd been told there was a site by a chap in Torremolinos. Its up very steep short hill that forces me to get off and walk for first time since England. Wind picks up whilst having dinnerin evening and soon turns really furious. I'm in fairly sheltered spot so only get rattled round a little. Some caravans get their awnings ripped away. Goes on till midnight and it's difficult to sleep with the noise.
Weds 17th Dec
Looks like sunny day so decide to stop in Torrox Costa. The bike fell over in Malaga damaging centre rack so I repair that and get usual chores done like washing clothes etc. Can also plan the next few stages of trip now I have the info. The days rest will be useful as, by the look of the map, the next stage will be tough going.
Saturday, 6 December 2008
Tooth trouble
Weds 26th nov
A filling came out a couple of days ago so decided last night that this may be the place to get it fixed; touristy with lots of brits, fairly large and only 20 mins walk to centre from campsite. Ask at campsite reception and they direct me to the central clinic. Walk down into town, find clinic and explain what's happened. Within 20 mins i'm in the chair. No messing with anasthetics, straight in with drill and scrapers. Turns out to be quite a large cavity but 10 - 15 mins later all done with very little discomfort. All the while they addressed me as Meesta Feelip. Brilliant. Go to pay the 60 euro fee but they won't accept debit card; leave passport as security, find ATM and go back to pay in cash. Worth it rather than risk toothache in some out of the way place.
Take walk round Quarteira and find second hand bookshop with books in many languages. Looked at buying english language novel before but they cost 9-10 euros new and as I can read a novel in an evening or 2 it would be expensive. These were 3 euros plus you got 50% back if you returned it.
Very cold evening so early to bed and read.
Thurs 27th nov
Finished novel by 21:30; Trading Reality by Michael Ridpath. Not bad but weak contrived ending. Very cold night, normally unzip sleeping bag and use more like a quilt but full on bag treatment last night. Decide to carry on East so take book back and exchange for another. Back to pack and off we go.
Horrible journey. Very busy road with lorries passing too close for comfort. Not sure if rude gestures are the same in Portugal but used them frequently today. Grotty urbanization along most of route.
Reached Olhao and made for campsite on Eastern edge. Pitched up and had look round. Best on-site supermarket i've ever seen, good range of stuff and open all day. Treat myself to bottle of Super Bock, as not had a beer for a while, and buy fresh bread, pate and salad for tea.
Fri 28th nov
Railway runs right alongside campsite. Trains go thundering by but either they stopped at night or I slept through it. Cloudy day with light showers so lazed around. Took quick stroll into Olhao outskirts but not very pleasant; tower blocks and graffiti.
Sat 29th nov
Very windy night and torrential rain last night. Dozed in clothes whilst waiting for chance to dash to shower block. In morning found bike blown over and water channel formed in the sand that just missed the tent.
Another bad weather day so take opportunity to reorganize panniers to try and make more room. Stripped out redundant pages in road atlas and campsite book.
Sun 30th nov
Weather uncertain, not sure whether to move on or not.
Walked into centre of Olhao, bit better than outskiirts. Narrow cobbled streets and quite busy. Wanted to find bookshop but no luck. Plenty of chinese bazaars which are really common along this coast. Bought cheap radio to keep me amused in evenings.
Mon 1st dec.
Weather better so pack up, which takes ages because of all the damp sand on everything. Set off for Monte Gordo. Sunny day but cold wind almost needing winter gloves. Arrive and pitch up then walk into centre. Quite a few shops but none of real interest, more of a permanent market. Christmas decorations are up and christmas carols played with synthesised pan pipes come from speakers around the town.
Back at campsite I notice people have dug trenches around their pitches so water runoff looks to be a problem. Starts to rain in evening but not enough to worry about.
Tues 2nd dec
Time to head into Spain. Catch ferry from Vila Real de St. Antonio. Nice trip across Rio Guadiana to Ayemonte. Centre of Ayemonte really bustling and attractive but no book shops. I really need more info on campsites in spain and ideally a better map than my 1cm=4km road atlas. Head for Isla Christina as map show campsite there. Find it ok and its open. Pitch up and explore Isla Christina, not very nice, cheap bazaars again many of which were closed.
Weds 3rd dec.
Try to plan next stage. I know the site at Punta Umbria is open but would prefer a site nearer Seville. Two are shown on road atlas but not sure if they are open. Plan a loop to each site and set off. Well, best laid plans and all that. One site didn't exist, other site was closed. Weather miserable, arrive at Aljeraque, follow signs to Punta Umbria and come to roundabout. The exit I want says no bike, pedestrians, tractors or livestock, it seems its been upgraded to motorway status since my map was produced. I can see a cycle track on other side but can't work out to get there. Follow possible alternative but that ends at industrial estate. Ask someone. They tell me the only way is to cross the bridge, which is in fact the slip road coming off the main road. Wait until no oncoming traffic then rush down slip road. Steep banks down either side but find lowest spot. Hoist loaded bike over crash barriers, down sand and gravel bank and across ditch to cycle track. Judging by all the tyre marks i'm not the only one who's had to do this. The track runs from Huelva to Punta Umbria but without access from Aljeraque which is about half way between the two. Cycle into Punta Umbria but can't find site. Ask chap and he tells me it's 10k back roughly the way i've come. Cycle back and eventually find it. I had passed within 1k of it when I came off cycle track but there were not any signs so I missed it. Campsite is dead and i've not had chance to get food, visit café but i'm the only one there. Cup of coffee with crisps and nuts will have to do. Starts raining again. What a day.
Thurs 4th dec
Dull, cloudy day but rising sun catching clouds quite nice. Take cycle track back towards Aljeraque and on to Huelva. Make way to centre and to tourist info according to basic town plan in road atlas. Wrong place but they direct me to right one. They have basic map of Andalucia with actual position of campsites marked on which is more useful than current map but no opening times; bloke tells me most of them are open all year. Find bookshop but nothing of interest there. Decide to cycle on to Mazagon as there is a site there. Very busy road with heavy industry and refineries ning the route. Eventually turns into nature reserve before getting to Mazagon. Campsite virtually empty and pretty basic, only other people I see are those who work there. Spend evening trying to sort out next stage of journey based on new campsite info.
Fri 5th dec
Well, three months now since I set out. Check with reception whether campsite at El Rocio is open. I think he said yes. Head off along long flat road towards Matalascanas then North East to El Rocio. 40 odd kilometres of flat sandy plain with pine trees later I arrive. Looks fairly interesting. Find campsite which looks good. Might stay a day to rest and do washing etc before making fairly long ride into Seville .
A filling came out a couple of days ago so decided last night that this may be the place to get it fixed; touristy with lots of brits, fairly large and only 20 mins walk to centre from campsite. Ask at campsite reception and they direct me to the central clinic. Walk down into town, find clinic and explain what's happened. Within 20 mins i'm in the chair. No messing with anasthetics, straight in with drill and scrapers. Turns out to be quite a large cavity but 10 - 15 mins later all done with very little discomfort. All the while they addressed me as Meesta Feelip. Brilliant. Go to pay the 60 euro fee but they won't accept debit card; leave passport as security, find ATM and go back to pay in cash. Worth it rather than risk toothache in some out of the way place.
Take walk round Quarteira and find second hand bookshop with books in many languages. Looked at buying english language novel before but they cost 9-10 euros new and as I can read a novel in an evening or 2 it would be expensive. These were 3 euros plus you got 50% back if you returned it.
Very cold evening so early to bed and read.
Thurs 27th nov
Finished novel by 21:30; Trading Reality by Michael Ridpath. Not bad but weak contrived ending. Very cold night, normally unzip sleeping bag and use more like a quilt but full on bag treatment last night. Decide to carry on East so take book back and exchange for another. Back to pack and off we go.
Horrible journey. Very busy road with lorries passing too close for comfort. Not sure if rude gestures are the same in Portugal but used them frequently today. Grotty urbanization along most of route.
Reached Olhao and made for campsite on Eastern edge. Pitched up and had look round. Best on-site supermarket i've ever seen, good range of stuff and open all day. Treat myself to bottle of Super Bock, as not had a beer for a while, and buy fresh bread, pate and salad for tea.
Fri 28th nov
Railway runs right alongside campsite. Trains go thundering by but either they stopped at night or I slept through it. Cloudy day with light showers so lazed around. Took quick stroll into Olhao outskirts but not very pleasant; tower blocks and graffiti.
Sat 29th nov
Very windy night and torrential rain last night. Dozed in clothes whilst waiting for chance to dash to shower block. In morning found bike blown over and water channel formed in the sand that just missed the tent.
Another bad weather day so take opportunity to reorganize panniers to try and make more room. Stripped out redundant pages in road atlas and campsite book.
Sun 30th nov
Weather uncertain, not sure whether to move on or not.
Walked into centre of Olhao, bit better than outskiirts. Narrow cobbled streets and quite busy. Wanted to find bookshop but no luck. Plenty of chinese bazaars which are really common along this coast. Bought cheap radio to keep me amused in evenings.
Mon 1st dec.
Weather better so pack up, which takes ages because of all the damp sand on everything. Set off for Monte Gordo. Sunny day but cold wind almost needing winter gloves. Arrive and pitch up then walk into centre. Quite a few shops but none of real interest, more of a permanent market. Christmas decorations are up and christmas carols played with synthesised pan pipes come from speakers around the town.
Back at campsite I notice people have dug trenches around their pitches so water runoff looks to be a problem. Starts to rain in evening but not enough to worry about.
Tues 2nd dec
Time to head into Spain. Catch ferry from Vila Real de St. Antonio. Nice trip across Rio Guadiana to Ayemonte. Centre of Ayemonte really bustling and attractive but no book shops. I really need more info on campsites in spain and ideally a better map than my 1cm=4km road atlas. Head for Isla Christina as map show campsite there. Find it ok and its open. Pitch up and explore Isla Christina, not very nice, cheap bazaars again many of which were closed.
Weds 3rd dec.
Try to plan next stage. I know the site at Punta Umbria is open but would prefer a site nearer Seville. Two are shown on road atlas but not sure if they are open. Plan a loop to each site and set off. Well, best laid plans and all that. One site didn't exist, other site was closed. Weather miserable, arrive at Aljeraque, follow signs to Punta Umbria and come to roundabout. The exit I want says no bike, pedestrians, tractors or livestock, it seems its been upgraded to motorway status since my map was produced. I can see a cycle track on other side but can't work out to get there. Follow possible alternative but that ends at industrial estate. Ask someone. They tell me the only way is to cross the bridge, which is in fact the slip road coming off the main road. Wait until no oncoming traffic then rush down slip road. Steep banks down either side but find lowest spot. Hoist loaded bike over crash barriers, down sand and gravel bank and across ditch to cycle track. Judging by all the tyre marks i'm not the only one who's had to do this. The track runs from Huelva to Punta Umbria but without access from Aljeraque which is about half way between the two. Cycle into Punta Umbria but can't find site. Ask chap and he tells me it's 10k back roughly the way i've come. Cycle back and eventually find it. I had passed within 1k of it when I came off cycle track but there were not any signs so I missed it. Campsite is dead and i've not had chance to get food, visit café but i'm the only one there. Cup of coffee with crisps and nuts will have to do. Starts raining again. What a day.
Thurs 4th dec
Dull, cloudy day but rising sun catching clouds quite nice. Take cycle track back towards Aljeraque and on to Huelva. Make way to centre and to tourist info according to basic town plan in road atlas. Wrong place but they direct me to right one. They have basic map of Andalucia with actual position of campsites marked on which is more useful than current map but no opening times; bloke tells me most of them are open all year. Find bookshop but nothing of interest there. Decide to cycle on to Mazagon as there is a site there. Very busy road with heavy industry and refineries ning the route. Eventually turns into nature reserve before getting to Mazagon. Campsite virtually empty and pretty basic, only other people I see are those who work there. Spend evening trying to sort out next stage of journey based on new campsite info.
Fri 5th dec
Well, three months now since I set out. Check with reception whether campsite at El Rocio is open. I think he said yes. Head off along long flat road towards Matalascanas then North East to El Rocio. 40 odd kilometres of flat sandy plain with pine trees later I arrive. Looks fairly interesting. Find campsite which looks good. Might stay a day to rest and do washing etc before making fairly long ride into Seville .
Wednesday, 26 November 2008
Heading East
Thurs 20th Nov
Incredibly clear night last night. So many stars it was difficult to make out the main constellations.
Cycle on short daytrip to Cabo de Sao Vicente via Fortaleza do Beliche. Cycle back to look at fort in Sagres before buying grub for picnic lunch.
Woman stops to chat about bike as she also has a folder. They had noticed the bike as I had passed by their parked campervan. The two surfer vans turn up again. Keep seeing the same campervans and people as we leapfrog campsites along the coast. Getting to stage where people hoot and wave as they pass by and recognize the bike.
Fri 21st nov
Enormous insect flew into tent last night; about the size of a small helicopter (almost). Don't know what it was but it clattered rather than buzzed. Decide to move on along coast towards Lagos to find bike shop i'd been told about; I need spare inner tube and puncture repair outfit. The rocks round here are deep tan colour sandstones that weather to creamy grey on the surface. On the road out of Sagres a flock of sheep were grazing among the sandstone boulders, their fleece covered in tan coloured dust. From a distance it appeared as though the boulders themselves were moving.
Stop at supermarket near Budens and as i'm trying to work out how to srap cobs, tomatoes and ham and other goodies onto the bike, Marion rolls up in their campervan. I had planned to go round and visit them at their apartment in Salema but hadn't planned when. Have a chat and fix time for 2 tomorrow as first priority was to get to bike shop which are like hens teeth in Portugal.
Find campsite just passed Espiche, pitch up then cycle 4k into Lagos. I'd been told roughly where shop was so, with a bit of asking, find it quite quickly; no shopfront, just a door down an alley. Its really an old fashioned bike workshop but they also sell some parts. You indicate what you'd like and they disappear into the back room to get it. No choice involved here.
Back to camp; lots of brits here same as in the supermarket earlier (which sold Tetleys tea, McVities ginger nuts and English paperbacks).
I suppose, geographical, the area looks a bit like Wales, all rugged coastline, hills and sheep, but the weather's better.
Sat 22nd nov
Tried uploading photos to blog on campsite computer but USB not accessible. Stove burner holes clogged up so clean that out before heading of to Salema. Arrive early so explore a bit and have a beer on seafront. Takes ages to pay as attractive waitress is busy explainig to another customer how much better her breasts look when she's pregnant. Fascinating. Arrive at Ian and Marions apartment just as they do. Spend rest of day sitting in sun on patio chatting over drinks and sandwiches . Really nice to be able to have long conversation in English. Head back as sun starts going down.
Sun 23rd nov
Decide to stop here extra day to get housework done. Buy washing powder (till now i've scrounged powder or handwashed clothes using showergel). Put clothes into washing machine and, as the settings are in portugese, take a guess at which one I need.
As washing is doing I transfer the fine white powder from box into polythene bags to make packing easier. I hope i'm not stopped and searched at any borders. Patch up panniers where ironically the protective corners are rubbing through fabric. Hang out clothes and solar charger in the sun and lounge around whilst clothes dry and PDA charges.
Mon 24th nov
Grey, cloudy and blustery morning but i'm told it'll stay dry so decide to move on. Pack tent in wind with help of a few rocks and set off. First bit of journey is into wind so occasionally hard going. Reach Portimao and call in Decathlon there for extra spare inner tube and spare tyre. Front tyre (ex back tyre) is almost bald and has large split where piece of wood was driven through long ago in a country far away called England. I shall continue to use old tyre for as long as possible but feel happier knowing i've a spare .
Back onto busy main road for a while before taking minor road SE to Armacao de Pera to find campsite.
The majority of the journey was on busy urban roads and not particularly pleasant especially on a grey and windy day. The campsite is not particularly pleasant either. Start to pitch in one spot and some chap tells me it floods . Start to pitch in second spot and i'm told by another bloke that it's the worst possible spot as the nearby toilet block is being renovated and is out of action. Decide to stick with second spot as it's fairly sheltered from wind and weather is looking grim. Starts to rain in evening but only light showers.
Tue 25th nov
Nice sunny day but strong winds. Set out for Albufeira with wind and hills making going heavy at times. Albufeira was nicer than I expected. Although outskirts were lifeless apartment blocks, centre was quite lively with interesting sculptures or features on the roundabouts. Follow busy main road through Albufeira and on to Vale do Judeu before taking minor road towards Quarteira. This is major golfing country with so many golf courses you can probably see them from space. Lots of money being invested and spent with result that whole area is beautifully kept. Saw very lengthy fitness track with some of the most stylish exercise stations i've ever seen, almost sculptural. Called in at Cerro da Vila to look at the roman ruins there before wending way through Quarteira to campsite on Eastern edge. Pitch up then cycle back into Quarteira to get dinner as facilities on campsite are closed. They do have free Wi-Fi though.
Incredibly clear night last night. So many stars it was difficult to make out the main constellations.
Cycle on short daytrip to Cabo de Sao Vicente via Fortaleza do Beliche. Cycle back to look at fort in Sagres before buying grub for picnic lunch.
Woman stops to chat about bike as she also has a folder. They had noticed the bike as I had passed by their parked campervan. The two surfer vans turn up again. Keep seeing the same campervans and people as we leapfrog campsites along the coast. Getting to stage where people hoot and wave as they pass by and recognize the bike.
Fri 21st nov
Enormous insect flew into tent last night; about the size of a small helicopter (almost). Don't know what it was but it clattered rather than buzzed. Decide to move on along coast towards Lagos to find bike shop i'd been told about; I need spare inner tube and puncture repair outfit. The rocks round here are deep tan colour sandstones that weather to creamy grey on the surface. On the road out of Sagres a flock of sheep were grazing among the sandstone boulders, their fleece covered in tan coloured dust. From a distance it appeared as though the boulders themselves were moving.
Stop at supermarket near Budens and as i'm trying to work out how to srap cobs, tomatoes and ham and other goodies onto the bike, Marion rolls up in their campervan. I had planned to go round and visit them at their apartment in Salema but hadn't planned when. Have a chat and fix time for 2 tomorrow as first priority was to get to bike shop which are like hens teeth in Portugal.
Find campsite just passed Espiche, pitch up then cycle 4k into Lagos. I'd been told roughly where shop was so, with a bit of asking, find it quite quickly; no shopfront, just a door down an alley. Its really an old fashioned bike workshop but they also sell some parts. You indicate what you'd like and they disappear into the back room to get it. No choice involved here.
Back to camp; lots of brits here same as in the supermarket earlier (which sold Tetleys tea, McVities ginger nuts and English paperbacks).
I suppose, geographical, the area looks a bit like Wales, all rugged coastline, hills and sheep, but the weather's better.
Sat 22nd nov
Tried uploading photos to blog on campsite computer but USB not accessible. Stove burner holes clogged up so clean that out before heading of to Salema. Arrive early so explore a bit and have a beer on seafront. Takes ages to pay as attractive waitress is busy explainig to another customer how much better her breasts look when she's pregnant. Fascinating. Arrive at Ian and Marions apartment just as they do. Spend rest of day sitting in sun on patio chatting over drinks and sandwiches . Really nice to be able to have long conversation in English. Head back as sun starts going down.
Sun 23rd nov
Decide to stop here extra day to get housework done. Buy washing powder (till now i've scrounged powder or handwashed clothes using showergel). Put clothes into washing machine and, as the settings are in portugese, take a guess at which one I need.
As washing is doing I transfer the fine white powder from box into polythene bags to make packing easier. I hope i'm not stopped and searched at any borders. Patch up panniers where ironically the protective corners are rubbing through fabric. Hang out clothes and solar charger in the sun and lounge around whilst clothes dry and PDA charges.
Mon 24th nov
Grey, cloudy and blustery morning but i'm told it'll stay dry so decide to move on. Pack tent in wind with help of a few rocks and set off. First bit of journey is into wind so occasionally hard going. Reach Portimao and call in Decathlon there for extra spare inner tube and spare tyre. Front tyre (ex back tyre) is almost bald and has large split where piece of wood was driven through long ago in a country far away called England. I shall continue to use old tyre for as long as possible but feel happier knowing i've a spare .
Back onto busy main road for a while before taking minor road SE to Armacao de Pera to find campsite.
The majority of the journey was on busy urban roads and not particularly pleasant especially on a grey and windy day. The campsite is not particularly pleasant either. Start to pitch in one spot and some chap tells me it floods . Start to pitch in second spot and i'm told by another bloke that it's the worst possible spot as the nearby toilet block is being renovated and is out of action. Decide to stick with second spot as it's fairly sheltered from wind and weather is looking grim. Starts to rain in evening but only light showers.
Tue 25th nov
Nice sunny day but strong winds. Set out for Albufeira with wind and hills making going heavy at times. Albufeira was nicer than I expected. Although outskirts were lifeless apartment blocks, centre was quite lively with interesting sculptures or features on the roundabouts. Follow busy main road through Albufeira and on to Vale do Judeu before taking minor road towards Quarteira. This is major golfing country with so many golf courses you can probably see them from space. Lots of money being invested and spent with result that whole area is beautifully kept. Saw very lengthy fitness track with some of the most stylish exercise stations i've ever seen, almost sculptural. Called in at Cerro da Vila to look at the roman ruins there before wending way through Quarteira to campsite on Eastern edge. Pitch up then cycle back into Quarteira to get dinner as facilities on campsite are closed. They do have free Wi-Fi though.
Thursday, 20 November 2008
Tue 11th Nov
Saw what appeared to be 2 flocks of bats fly over last night, illuminated by campsite lights. Highlight of the evening that was.
Warm but cloudy as pack and head off to Ericeira. Just after getting supplies at Lourinha I notice bike behaving odd again; another flat. Dismantle everything by side of road and find patched hole in iner tube has split beyond patch. Replace inner tube, reassemble and set off again. Very hilly road with a couple of biggies at Ribamar and Ericeira but dramatic scenery. Slight showers start about midday and continue as I reach campsite and pitch. Couple of surfers from previous site also here and they say rest of week will be good..
Weds 12th nov
Looks like surfers were right so get washing done and stroll into Ericeira. As stopping for the day I can buy fresh food without having to worry about cramming it into panniers.
Do a bit of planning and decide to cut corner into Lisbon. Was originally going to follow coast round.
Thurs 13th nov
Leave Ericeira and head towards Lisbon. Hilly but feel in fine fettle and manage without too much difficulty. Get to Sintra and find no bikes allowed on road I wanted so find side roads to about 10k outside Lisbon then get stuck. Ask around but general response is you can't cycle into Lisbon from here, try the train. Meanwhile toe strap on sandal has broke. It first went 14th oct and I repaired it by boring holes in sole with a penknife and using a nylon cable tie to hold strap in place and its held so far. Now its the other side that's gone. Sit down by side of busy road with toolkit spread around me and get to work resulting in a repaired sandal and many odd looks. Get to station but it's self service and my Portugese is non existent. Find girl who speaks some english and tell her where I am trying to get to. She tells me nearest stop is the zoological gardens. Looking at my basic town plan in the road atlas I reckon I should be able to find way from there. Try luck with ticket machine and ask another girl which train I need ( I ask females as they are usually more helpful than men). Luckily she's going same way so off we go. Get to station and hoist bike off then try to get bearings. Eventually find a street name and, eventually, the campsite which is in a forest park surrounded by busy roads. Campsite not brilliant although supposedly 4 star. As its out of season all the facilities are reduced. Had thought about spending a couple of nights here but now having second thoughts.
The girl at the station said the Portugese don't use bikes and in general I think she's right. You don't see many cyclists at all.
Fri 14th nov
Leave campsite through park and into city. Cobbled roads, traffic and tramlines just wide enough for cycle tyres make for hazardous journey. Cut across to riverfront in hopes of following it into centre but it is manic. Two very busy dual carriageways separated by a trainline. Cycle on pavement as road too risky. Odd difficulty as pavement blocked and have to wait for pause in oncoming traffic, get onto road and make a dash for it . Eventually reach centre and after quick look make way to ferry. One leaving in 3 mins so get ticket and board glad to be away from the mayhem that is Lisbon. Cross river to Cacilhas. Road soon becomes very busy; no idea where the traffic comes from. Things quieten down and quite nice scenery as reach Arrabida national park. Head into Setubal and follow coast W to Outao. Very hilly and now hard work but reach campsite and rewarded by nice views across to the Troia peninsula.
Sat 15th nov
Cycle back into Setubal and call in supermarket. Come out to find sunglasses stolen. Catch ferry and have really pleasant trip across to Troia peninsula with nice views of Arrabida despite the cement works, then cycle S through miles and miles of pine and shrub covered sand dunes. Hot sunny day and really could have done with those sunglasses. Decide on campsite at Melides which turns out to be a huge shanty town of caravans with awnings canopies and all sorts. Quite a few portugese here as its the weekend.
Sun 16th nov.
Head S to Vila Nova de Milfontes as it looks like campsite is near civilization. So many of them are miles from anywhere. Bit of a tedious ride on main dual carriageway through usual pine and scrub sand dunes but at least not busy. Take minor road to Vila Nova de Milfontes and it is dreadful until you reach the regional boundary then it becomes excellent. Brisk southerly makes pedalling hard work at times. Find campsite and it looks good; no shanty town. Might stop for a day as backside needs a break.
Mon 17th nov
Go shopping and find cheap pair of sunglasses. walk along coast to see fort and old town then into the market to get fresh bread, cheese, pate and salad. Sit in sun and have picnic lunch. Vila Nova de Milfontes is quite a nice place so have relaxing day.
Tue 18th nov
Off S to Aljezur. Really pleasant cycling as road leads into national park. A few climbs but worth it for the scenery, steep wooded valleys with the odd village tumbling down the sides. Piles of cork bark in places looking like stacks of hollow logs.. I'd noticed the trees some time ago with grey gnarled upper and chocolate brown wrinkly lower trunk where bark has been removed. Sriff climb out of valley into Odeceixe then stopped for break by fountain in Rogil. Reach Aljezur and pitch on rock hard ground. Even using a stone as a hammer the pegs don't go in far. The toilet block however is the finest i've seen so far. Have dinner under eucalyptus trees watching a fabulous sunset.
Weds 19th nov
Beautiful day as set off for Sagres. Lovely scenery again; even the geology's interesting with folded shales often colourfully banded like candy stripes. Stopped for supplies at a Lidl in Vila do Bispo and saw a praying mantis on the pavement outside. Campsite not bad so might stop for a day or two and explore. Met a Swiss cyclist who's cycled quite a bit in Portugal. Apparently the best time to cycle in Lisbon is Sunday, otherwise its very bad. He prefers to skirt round it. He also suggested that Portugal was not the best place for first major cycle trip. I tend to agree; apart from the often dreadful roads, the portugese love their cars and are not as considerate to cyclist as the french.
Saw what appeared to be 2 flocks of bats fly over last night, illuminated by campsite lights. Highlight of the evening that was.
Warm but cloudy as pack and head off to Ericeira. Just after getting supplies at Lourinha I notice bike behaving odd again; another flat. Dismantle everything by side of road and find patched hole in iner tube has split beyond patch. Replace inner tube, reassemble and set off again. Very hilly road with a couple of biggies at Ribamar and Ericeira but dramatic scenery. Slight showers start about midday and continue as I reach campsite and pitch. Couple of surfers from previous site also here and they say rest of week will be good..
Weds 12th nov
Looks like surfers were right so get washing done and stroll into Ericeira. As stopping for the day I can buy fresh food without having to worry about cramming it into panniers.
Do a bit of planning and decide to cut corner into Lisbon. Was originally going to follow coast round.
Thurs 13th nov
Leave Ericeira and head towards Lisbon. Hilly but feel in fine fettle and manage without too much difficulty. Get to Sintra and find no bikes allowed on road I wanted so find side roads to about 10k outside Lisbon then get stuck. Ask around but general response is you can't cycle into Lisbon from here, try the train. Meanwhile toe strap on sandal has broke. It first went 14th oct and I repaired it by boring holes in sole with a penknife and using a nylon cable tie to hold strap in place and its held so far. Now its the other side that's gone. Sit down by side of busy road with toolkit spread around me and get to work resulting in a repaired sandal and many odd looks. Get to station but it's self service and my Portugese is non existent. Find girl who speaks some english and tell her where I am trying to get to. She tells me nearest stop is the zoological gardens. Looking at my basic town plan in the road atlas I reckon I should be able to find way from there. Try luck with ticket machine and ask another girl which train I need ( I ask females as they are usually more helpful than men). Luckily she's going same way so off we go. Get to station and hoist bike off then try to get bearings. Eventually find a street name and, eventually, the campsite which is in a forest park surrounded by busy roads. Campsite not brilliant although supposedly 4 star. As its out of season all the facilities are reduced. Had thought about spending a couple of nights here but now having second thoughts.
The girl at the station said the Portugese don't use bikes and in general I think she's right. You don't see many cyclists at all.
Fri 14th nov
Leave campsite through park and into city. Cobbled roads, traffic and tramlines just wide enough for cycle tyres make for hazardous journey. Cut across to riverfront in hopes of following it into centre but it is manic. Two very busy dual carriageways separated by a trainline. Cycle on pavement as road too risky. Odd difficulty as pavement blocked and have to wait for pause in oncoming traffic, get onto road and make a dash for it . Eventually reach centre and after quick look make way to ferry. One leaving in 3 mins so get ticket and board glad to be away from the mayhem that is Lisbon. Cross river to Cacilhas. Road soon becomes very busy; no idea where the traffic comes from. Things quieten down and quite nice scenery as reach Arrabida national park. Head into Setubal and follow coast W to Outao. Very hilly and now hard work but reach campsite and rewarded by nice views across to the Troia peninsula.
Sat 15th nov
Cycle back into Setubal and call in supermarket. Come out to find sunglasses stolen. Catch ferry and have really pleasant trip across to Troia peninsula with nice views of Arrabida despite the cement works, then cycle S through miles and miles of pine and shrub covered sand dunes. Hot sunny day and really could have done with those sunglasses. Decide on campsite at Melides which turns out to be a huge shanty town of caravans with awnings canopies and all sorts. Quite a few portugese here as its the weekend.
Sun 16th nov.
Head S to Vila Nova de Milfontes as it looks like campsite is near civilization. So many of them are miles from anywhere. Bit of a tedious ride on main dual carriageway through usual pine and scrub sand dunes but at least not busy. Take minor road to Vila Nova de Milfontes and it is dreadful until you reach the regional boundary then it becomes excellent. Brisk southerly makes pedalling hard work at times. Find campsite and it looks good; no shanty town. Might stop for a day as backside needs a break.
Mon 17th nov
Go shopping and find cheap pair of sunglasses. walk along coast to see fort and old town then into the market to get fresh bread, cheese, pate and salad. Sit in sun and have picnic lunch. Vila Nova de Milfontes is quite a nice place so have relaxing day.
Tue 18th nov
Off S to Aljezur. Really pleasant cycling as road leads into national park. A few climbs but worth it for the scenery, steep wooded valleys with the odd village tumbling down the sides. Piles of cork bark in places looking like stacks of hollow logs.. I'd noticed the trees some time ago with grey gnarled upper and chocolate brown wrinkly lower trunk where bark has been removed. Sriff climb out of valley into Odeceixe then stopped for break by fountain in Rogil. Reach Aljezur and pitch on rock hard ground. Even using a stone as a hammer the pegs don't go in far. The toilet block however is the finest i've seen so far. Have dinner under eucalyptus trees watching a fabulous sunset.
Weds 19th nov
Beautiful day as set off for Sagres. Lovely scenery again; even the geology's interesting with folded shales often colourfully banded like candy stripes. Stopped for supplies at a Lidl in Vila do Bispo and saw a praying mantis on the pavement outside. Campsite not bad so might stop for a day or two and explore. Met a Swiss cyclist who's cycled quite a bit in Portugal. Apparently the best time to cycle in Lisbon is Sunday, otherwise its very bad. He prefers to skirt round it. He also suggested that Portugal was not the best place for first major cycle trip. I tend to agree; apart from the often dreadful roads, the portugese love their cars and are not as considerate to cyclist as the french.
Wednesday, 12 November 2008
Sat 1st Nov
Set out South under heavy overcast skies. Not a very scenic ride, nowhere near as nice as yesterday. Found campsite at Villa da Conde. I was aiming for one at Povoa de Varzim but must have missed it. Stove fuel getting low so bought food can eat cold.
Sun 2nd
Met a couple of folk I first met at in Baiona when I saw a brit registered volksy camper and went over for a chat. Ian and Marion were working their way South doing a bit of surfing. They had arrived at this campsite after dismissing thier first choice. Had another chat along with tea, toast and marmalade.
Thought I´d follow coast into Porto but cobbles persuaded me to stay on N13. Not scenic and very busy, especially entering Porto. Managed to cut west to the coast at Matoshinos and follow cycle route along coast and up river into Porto; had a beer under the massive bridge, Pont da Arrabida which takes the A1 IC1 across; cross smaller bridge and down other side of river past old derelict warehouses and into a small village with a street full of decoratively tiled houses; then along coast to campsite at Praia da Madalena. This bit of the coast very popular and seem major seaside resort. Had not had time to by food but campsite receptionist says campsite bar open and they sell food. Great, evening sorted off to internet cafe to post blog then back for tea. all goes well until I arrive at bar for food, all they have on the menu is toast and butter, bread and butter, half toast and butter. Oh well coffee toast and butter it is. Not quite what I was expecting.
Mon 3rd
Off we go again, managed to pick up orange juice and biscuits in Espinho to tide me over.
took N109 to Aveiro, what a dreadful road with grubby urbanisation lining the road most of the way. With the grey overcast sky and traffic it was not a pleasant ride. Only consolation was I found a supermarket and also fuel for my stove. Followed N109 to Ilhavo to try and make my way to Praia da Barra to camp but got totally lost in the urban sprawl. Notice bike is behaving odd as well and find slow puncture in rear tyre. Stop at school when notice pupils leaving and ask for directions figuring they might have an English teacher. Plan works and she kindly gets in her car and leads me through the streets to the bridge across the river. Thanked her and set off across bridge against a strong wind. By now it is dark and rear tyre about flat. Manage to find signs for campsite and push bike last few hundred yards to save damaging rear tyre too much. Book in at campsite just as receptiion closing. What a day, still felt better after a cuppa.
Tues 4th
Damp drizzly start to day, replace rear inner tube and swap rear and front tyres as rear very worn. Looks like I´ll need new ones before long. Did a bit of bike maintenance then mooched around but everywhere very dead. Campsite like a ghost town.
Weds 5th
Fine weather as set off down the sand spit, quite pleasant and peaceful. Many locals sitting by roadside selling home grown produce looking quite Peruvian. Followed coast to Praia da Mira then had to cut inland as road so bad I was only managing walking pace. Found excellent new road that I had all to myself for a while before hitting N109. entered Figueira da Foz and found tourist info who suggested two sites; I chose the one nearest and with a supermarket next door.
Thurs 6th
Looks like an overcast day. Campsite is in pine wood and, like many of the sites, is part sort of shanty town where regulars leave their caravans and add bits to them over time. go to supermarket to get days grub and on way back notice two people speaking english so I ask them if they know what the weather forecast is. They ask if i´m in the small tent and then say they´ll shout it across. Go over a bit later and introduce myself; end up staying till early hours of next day . Bob and Jane have spent last 8 years or so exploring portugal and adopting various lifestyles. Talked for hours over tea, beer and a very nice casserole by Jane. all the stories would fill a book and, if they haven´t already, I reckon they ought to write one.
Fri 7th
Go to reception to pay for extra night but they tell me no need and have a pleasant journey. set of down N109, try cutting across to coast but no luck so stick on main road untill I know and get get to coast. follow fairly straight, undulating road for about 20K through sand dunes covered with scrub and pines until I reach Sao Pedro da Moel and find campsite. Go for evening stroll after tea and watch waves crash onto cliffs by the light of the lighthouse right outside campsite, very atmospheric and dramatic.
Sat 8th
As weather looks good, decide to stop and dry clothes which have been damp from washing on wednesday and didn´t have time to finish drying. Do general tent and kit clean and tidy and laze around as it is such a nice day. Had noticed book on portugese campsites so asked at reception if they had one but no luck. At present I´m using a europe campsite book which only shows a selection of sites.
Sun 9th
Heavy condensation in tent meant wet patch on sleeping bag and drips on my head in the morning. Pack up and head south. Coast has a cycle path for quite a way so fairly easy going. Get to campsite at Sao Martinho da Porto as recommended by receptionist at previous site. It is in a great location at the head of a seashell shaped bay where the sea enters between two promontories then spreads out. town itself is quite nice and lively but campsite itself is a bit rough. they also have portugal campsite book so buy it. Worth it as it not only tells you all the sites in portugal but a little map showing exactly where. Has meant I can plan things a little better whilst in Portugal at least.
Mon 10th
Set off again and before long climb long hill to Castle in Obidos, on to Lourinha to camp, quite a hilly and tiring journey. Campsite is completely a shanty town so have to pitch in a tiny little corner between two permanent canvas tents. Notice couple of brit vans with young surfers. Say hello but they weren´t particularly chatty.
Set out South under heavy overcast skies. Not a very scenic ride, nowhere near as nice as yesterday. Found campsite at Villa da Conde. I was aiming for one at Povoa de Varzim but must have missed it. Stove fuel getting low so bought food can eat cold.
Sun 2nd
Met a couple of folk I first met at in Baiona when I saw a brit registered volksy camper and went over for a chat. Ian and Marion were working their way South doing a bit of surfing. They had arrived at this campsite after dismissing thier first choice. Had another chat along with tea, toast and marmalade.
Thought I´d follow coast into Porto but cobbles persuaded me to stay on N13. Not scenic and very busy, especially entering Porto. Managed to cut west to the coast at Matoshinos and follow cycle route along coast and up river into Porto; had a beer under the massive bridge, Pont da Arrabida which takes the A1 IC1 across; cross smaller bridge and down other side of river past old derelict warehouses and into a small village with a street full of decoratively tiled houses; then along coast to campsite at Praia da Madalena. This bit of the coast very popular and seem major seaside resort. Had not had time to by food but campsite receptionist says campsite bar open and they sell food. Great, evening sorted off to internet cafe to post blog then back for tea. all goes well until I arrive at bar for food, all they have on the menu is toast and butter, bread and butter, half toast and butter. Oh well coffee toast and butter it is. Not quite what I was expecting.
Mon 3rd
Off we go again, managed to pick up orange juice and biscuits in Espinho to tide me over.
took N109 to Aveiro, what a dreadful road with grubby urbanisation lining the road most of the way. With the grey overcast sky and traffic it was not a pleasant ride. Only consolation was I found a supermarket and also fuel for my stove. Followed N109 to Ilhavo to try and make my way to Praia da Barra to camp but got totally lost in the urban sprawl. Notice bike is behaving odd as well and find slow puncture in rear tyre. Stop at school when notice pupils leaving and ask for directions figuring they might have an English teacher. Plan works and she kindly gets in her car and leads me through the streets to the bridge across the river. Thanked her and set off across bridge against a strong wind. By now it is dark and rear tyre about flat. Manage to find signs for campsite and push bike last few hundred yards to save damaging rear tyre too much. Book in at campsite just as receptiion closing. What a day, still felt better after a cuppa.
Tues 4th
Damp drizzly start to day, replace rear inner tube and swap rear and front tyres as rear very worn. Looks like I´ll need new ones before long. Did a bit of bike maintenance then mooched around but everywhere very dead. Campsite like a ghost town.
Weds 5th
Fine weather as set off down the sand spit, quite pleasant and peaceful. Many locals sitting by roadside selling home grown produce looking quite Peruvian. Followed coast to Praia da Mira then had to cut inland as road so bad I was only managing walking pace. Found excellent new road that I had all to myself for a while before hitting N109. entered Figueira da Foz and found tourist info who suggested two sites; I chose the one nearest and with a supermarket next door.
Thurs 6th
Looks like an overcast day. Campsite is in pine wood and, like many of the sites, is part sort of shanty town where regulars leave their caravans and add bits to them over time. go to supermarket to get days grub and on way back notice two people speaking english so I ask them if they know what the weather forecast is. They ask if i´m in the small tent and then say they´ll shout it across. Go over a bit later and introduce myself; end up staying till early hours of next day . Bob and Jane have spent last 8 years or so exploring portugal and adopting various lifestyles. Talked for hours over tea, beer and a very nice casserole by Jane. all the stories would fill a book and, if they haven´t already, I reckon they ought to write one.
Fri 7th
Go to reception to pay for extra night but they tell me no need and have a pleasant journey. set of down N109, try cutting across to coast but no luck so stick on main road untill I know and get get to coast. follow fairly straight, undulating road for about 20K through sand dunes covered with scrub and pines until I reach Sao Pedro da Moel and find campsite. Go for evening stroll after tea and watch waves crash onto cliffs by the light of the lighthouse right outside campsite, very atmospheric and dramatic.
Sat 8th
As weather looks good, decide to stop and dry clothes which have been damp from washing on wednesday and didn´t have time to finish drying. Do general tent and kit clean and tidy and laze around as it is such a nice day. Had noticed book on portugese campsites so asked at reception if they had one but no luck. At present I´m using a europe campsite book which only shows a selection of sites.
Sun 9th
Heavy condensation in tent meant wet patch on sleeping bag and drips on my head in the morning. Pack up and head south. Coast has a cycle path for quite a way so fairly easy going. Get to campsite at Sao Martinho da Porto as recommended by receptionist at previous site. It is in a great location at the head of a seashell shaped bay where the sea enters between two promontories then spreads out. town itself is quite nice and lively but campsite itself is a bit rough. they also have portugal campsite book so buy it. Worth it as it not only tells you all the sites in portugal but a little map showing exactly where. Has meant I can plan things a little better whilst in Portugal at least.
Mon 10th
Set off again and before long climb long hill to Castle in Obidos, on to Lourinha to camp, quite a hilly and tiring journey. Campsite is completely a shanty town so have to pitch in a tiny little corner between two permanent canvas tents. Notice couple of brit vans with young surfers. Say hello but they weren´t particularly chatty.
Sunday, 2 November 2008
Sat 25th
At last a warm night, what a difference a good sleeping bag makes.
Set out from Socoa to San Sebastian but got lost in Errentaria. Asking around and eventually a chap comes up and explains he is going to SS but by train as its too hilly to cycle. So hop on local train with this chap, Francisco. He gives me a quick guided tour of San Sebastian which is a very nice place. We have a couple of beers the say cheerio and I head off for the tourist office. Bump into Jim and Marcia outside the tourist office so we do a bit of shopping then set out for local campsite. Turns out campsite is on Mont Igelda, 5km away up a very, very large hill. Eventually get there and set up camp
Incidentally when coming out of San Sebastian Station we met a chap with a tandem and trailer. As we stood talking he dismantled the tandem and turned it into a mountain bike, stacking the unused bits on his trailer. Turns out he´s spent last six and a half years on and off, touring round and offering the spare tandem seat to whoever wants to share the journey. He reckons he spends 80% of his time accompanied. He has a web site http://www.peacepedlars.org/ ( I think}
Sun 26th
Lovely day as say goodbye to Jim and Marcia as unlikely to see them again. I have decided to try and make my way acrros Spain to the West coast by train to avoid the bad weather closing in. Got a clue when the surfers at the campsite were replaced by snowboarders. " whens the snow expected" I ask " any day now" was the response. Time for me to move on. Jim and Marcia decide to risk cycling along the North coast then head inland.
Catch bus into SS to research trains (not tackling that hill again) then back to camp to sit in sun with a beer and plan.
Only regional trains take bikes so looks like several changes as I´ll be crossing a few regions
Mon 27th.
Pack up and head into SS, book train to Vitoria Gastiez and on to Palencia then mooch around as train not till 15:35
I expected to change trains but all that happened was the staff and train details changed but not the train.
Arrived in Palencia 20:10 and asked about nearby hotels. Found one straight away so took stroll round Palencia.
Fascinating place, lots of people out and about promenading. Many of the pastry and sweet shops were open and the really nice atmosphere was only slightly spoilt by the town clock chimes which were amplified through dreadful speakers.
Tue 28th
Very cold morning as explore Palencia in the daylight but lacks what it had in the evening.
Catch train to Leon (just, it had been delayed so nearly got on wrong train). Try to find out about next stage at station but they only sisplay regional info so had to wait until info kiosk opened. Next train not till 16:40 tomorrow so check at tourist office about rooms and settle for a hostel in the old quarter then set out to explore Leon. Again a fascinating place with lots of folk strolling about, mainly because its on the Santiago pilgrims route. Crowd of youngster go by dressed in bin bags and carrying boxes of eggs. I presume there is a festival somewhere but I never found it. Visit cathedral and a few other cultural bits, most odd was a twee disneyesque 'castle' by Gaudi, must have been before he totally lost it and went over the top. Called in bar next to Hostel for a beer which was served with olives, pickled gerkins and onions. Just what you need before bedtime.
Weds 29th
Call back in bar for breakfast of bacon and eggs then off to wander Leon until train arrives. It is bitterly cold (2 degrees in the sun and a cold wind) The snow has arrived and coats the hills around Leon but the city itself is clear.
Catch train to Vigo without a hitch as used to it now. Train pulls out of station and breaks down. Another backup train rolls up half hour later and shunts us back into station, where we get off and change platforms, then changes tracks and picks us up. Off we finaly go an hour late. Original train was through to Vigo on west coast but due to delay we have to change at Ponferrado. Train for next leg is not a regional one so no space for a bike. As its an exception they let me on and I squeeze into the narrow gap between carriages blocking everybody passing through as well as using the loos. Expect to stand there moving bike for 5 hours until conductor suggests removing luggage and its then I remember the bike is a folder. As Vigo is the terminus I'll have plenty of time to get the bike off and reassemble it. Dismantle everything and store it in the luggage racks and settle down to tead a novel i found lying around in the hostel.
Have chat with lovely young Spanish girl who spoke excellent English. Find out there is a hotel right next to station which is good as we arrive at midnight. By this time I have picked up a stinking cold and feel very congested.
Thurs 30th
After a night coughing and sneezing I plan next stage. I had thought to catch train into Northern Portugal to miss some busy roads. As the only train is this evening and Vigo isn't a particularly attractive place I decide to cycle out. I really did not look forward to waking up a hotel with my coughs and sneezes. Quick cycle up the hill to visit the castle which was a mistake when congested with a cold.Good job there was a bar at the top. Eventually find my way out of Vigo and head to nearby campsite at Baiona as I really do not feel up to cycling far just yet.
Fri 31st
Baiona very nice and noted, apparently, as the place where news of Columbus's discovery was first heard.
Lovely day and a really nice ride along the coast with rugged hills to the left and a rugged coast to the right. Feel a lot better for a healthy dose of car fumes. Eventually reach bridge into Portugal, cross over and head to Carminha to pitch up for night. First thing you notice about Portugal is the tiles, the fancy church spires and the absolutely dreadful condition of the roads. Even major road have big potholes and cracked surfaces. If I thought the french fancied cobbles, the portuguese have a positive passion for them. I end up being shaken senseless on some of the roads.
At last a warm night, what a difference a good sleeping bag makes.
Set out from Socoa to San Sebastian but got lost in Errentaria. Asking around and eventually a chap comes up and explains he is going to SS but by train as its too hilly to cycle. So hop on local train with this chap, Francisco. He gives me a quick guided tour of San Sebastian which is a very nice place. We have a couple of beers the say cheerio and I head off for the tourist office. Bump into Jim and Marcia outside the tourist office so we do a bit of shopping then set out for local campsite. Turns out campsite is on Mont Igelda, 5km away up a very, very large hill. Eventually get there and set up camp
Incidentally when coming out of San Sebastian Station we met a chap with a tandem and trailer. As we stood talking he dismantled the tandem and turned it into a mountain bike, stacking the unused bits on his trailer. Turns out he´s spent last six and a half years on and off, touring round and offering the spare tandem seat to whoever wants to share the journey. He reckons he spends 80% of his time accompanied. He has a web site http://www.peacepedlars.org/ ( I think}
Sun 26th
Lovely day as say goodbye to Jim and Marcia as unlikely to see them again. I have decided to try and make my way acrros Spain to the West coast by train to avoid the bad weather closing in. Got a clue when the surfers at the campsite were replaced by snowboarders. " whens the snow expected" I ask " any day now" was the response. Time for me to move on. Jim and Marcia decide to risk cycling along the North coast then head inland.
Catch bus into SS to research trains (not tackling that hill again) then back to camp to sit in sun with a beer and plan.
Only regional trains take bikes so looks like several changes as I´ll be crossing a few regions
Mon 27th.
Pack up and head into SS, book train to Vitoria Gastiez and on to Palencia then mooch around as train not till 15:35
I expected to change trains but all that happened was the staff and train details changed but not the train.
Arrived in Palencia 20:10 and asked about nearby hotels. Found one straight away so took stroll round Palencia.
Fascinating place, lots of people out and about promenading. Many of the pastry and sweet shops were open and the really nice atmosphere was only slightly spoilt by the town clock chimes which were amplified through dreadful speakers.
Tue 28th
Very cold morning as explore Palencia in the daylight but lacks what it had in the evening.
Catch train to Leon (just, it had been delayed so nearly got on wrong train). Try to find out about next stage at station but they only sisplay regional info so had to wait until info kiosk opened. Next train not till 16:40 tomorrow so check at tourist office about rooms and settle for a hostel in the old quarter then set out to explore Leon. Again a fascinating place with lots of folk strolling about, mainly because its on the Santiago pilgrims route. Crowd of youngster go by dressed in bin bags and carrying boxes of eggs. I presume there is a festival somewhere but I never found it. Visit cathedral and a few other cultural bits, most odd was a twee disneyesque 'castle' by Gaudi, must have been before he totally lost it and went over the top. Called in bar next to Hostel for a beer which was served with olives, pickled gerkins and onions. Just what you need before bedtime.
Weds 29th
Call back in bar for breakfast of bacon and eggs then off to wander Leon until train arrives. It is bitterly cold (2 degrees in the sun and a cold wind) The snow has arrived and coats the hills around Leon but the city itself is clear.
Catch train to Vigo without a hitch as used to it now. Train pulls out of station and breaks down. Another backup train rolls up half hour later and shunts us back into station, where we get off and change platforms, then changes tracks and picks us up. Off we finaly go an hour late. Original train was through to Vigo on west coast but due to delay we have to change at Ponferrado. Train for next leg is not a regional one so no space for a bike. As its an exception they let me on and I squeeze into the narrow gap between carriages blocking everybody passing through as well as using the loos. Expect to stand there moving bike for 5 hours until conductor suggests removing luggage and its then I remember the bike is a folder. As Vigo is the terminus I'll have plenty of time to get the bike off and reassemble it. Dismantle everything and store it in the luggage racks and settle down to tead a novel i found lying around in the hostel.
Have chat with lovely young Spanish girl who spoke excellent English. Find out there is a hotel right next to station which is good as we arrive at midnight. By this time I have picked up a stinking cold and feel very congested.
Thurs 30th
After a night coughing and sneezing I plan next stage. I had thought to catch train into Northern Portugal to miss some busy roads. As the only train is this evening and Vigo isn't a particularly attractive place I decide to cycle out. I really did not look forward to waking up a hotel with my coughs and sneezes. Quick cycle up the hill to visit the castle which was a mistake when congested with a cold.Good job there was a bar at the top. Eventually find my way out of Vigo and head to nearby campsite at Baiona as I really do not feel up to cycling far just yet.
Fri 31st
Baiona very nice and noted, apparently, as the place where news of Columbus's discovery was first heard.
Lovely day and a really nice ride along the coast with rugged hills to the left and a rugged coast to the right. Feel a lot better for a healthy dose of car fumes. Eventually reach bridge into Portugal, cross over and head to Carminha to pitch up for night. First thing you notice about Portugal is the tiles, the fancy church spires and the absolutely dreadful condition of the roads. Even major road have big potholes and cracked surfaces. If I thought the french fancied cobbles, the portuguese have a positive passion for them. I end up being shaken senseless on some of the roads.
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