Weds 20th may
Restless night, possibly due to noisy ferries. Ran out of breakfast so make early start to ferry port. Within half hour i've bought ticket, boarded and set sail. Arrive Dover about 9:40 local time. Make way into Dover to get road map which shows campsites make quick route plan and head off for Canterbury. It's a beautiful day with beautiful scenery as I follow small shady lanes across the downs. The lack of sleep and breakfast takes its toll on the many steep hills but a pint of real ale at the Unicorn in Bekesbourne makes it worthwhile. Campsite is very nice and within walking distance of Canterbury. Have cuppa while plan provisional route through UK then take stroll into Canterbury for a recce. Will explore it more thoroughly tomorrow. It's good to be back in the UK and a little strange to hear everybody speaking english. Only went on wrong side of road once (that's why i'm sticking to quiet roads for a while!)
Thurs 21st may
Nice day so do chores then walk into Canterbury. Post leaflets and maps i'd accumulated to reduce weight, call in bank to check on finances, get maps needed to get through London then get food etc. Canterbury looks interesting enough to spend several days here but I will leave it for another time. Get back and work out route. National Cycle Network route 1 goes roughly where I want to go, crossing the Thames at Greenwich; not much choice on campsites but it's do-able.
Will pass through London at the weekend when i've been told there will be a heatwave!
Fri 22nd may
Nice sunny day as set out from Canterbury towards Chatham and Rochester. NCN1 twist and winds all over the place so take many shortcuts. Very pleasant ride through Faversham followed by a quick visit to the gunpowder works but Sittingbourne didn't appeal. Many short but very steep climbs and descents and a few nice country lanes before reaching Gillingham. From here on it is high volumes of traffic and cycle lanes that treat you the same as a pedestrian. Nice break as cycle path runs along 'the strand' which follows the estuary edge for a while, then back to traffic chaos as head south then west into Rochester. Long climb south out of Rochester to campsite where they tell me they don't allow tents! Lot of trouble with groups camping, visiting nearby clubs then causing trouble when they got back. As I didn't look like a group of club-going troublemakers they concede and let me pitch for the night as long as it's somewhere out the way where I can't be seen.
Sat 23rd may
Follow ncn1 out of Rochester to Gravesend, Dartford and on to Lesnes Abbey woods, east of Woolwich, to campsite. An interesting if not particularly scenic route that passes through industrial estates, marshland, the thames riverside, housing estates and shopping centres. Route well signposted so fairly easy, if frustrating, to follow as it often uses pavement cycle tracks which involve stopping and starting every few minutes. Site very busy with quite a few tents. They suggest you don't keep food in the tent as the local squirrels are in the habit of boring through the tent walls to get to it. Also warn that foxes steal your shoes if left outside.
Sun 24th may
Quite good facilities at this site and handy for accessing central London. Set out with aim of getting through London and as far north as possible. Follow national cycle network route 1 which follows Thames to Greenwich, past Thames barrier and Millenium dome. Up through Docklands and by Victoria park to the Lee valley. Nice ride along valley so decide to carry on despite running off the edge of my detailed map. Not long before I get lost although I followed signs. After numerous dead ends and backtracks I concede and ask some chap how to get to the road. When I mention that i'd followed the signs and still got lost he informed me they had been messed with and were pointing the wrong way. Head off for campsite at Nazeing; that was closed down. Second site at Royden had been converted to luxury chalets. Eventually found one just beyond Ware but it was very basic. Overall i've spent 10 hours in the saddle today so i'm feeling a little frayed at the edges.
Mon 25th may.
Was going to rest today but sight is so bad I decide to carry on. Cloudy but pleasant ride to Cambridge where it's a decent site. Stopped on route to lend toolkit to cyclist who's spokes had come loose. Very sunny and hot in afternoon and its nice to lay back and rest the legs.
Tues 26th may
Rained all evening and through morning. Clears in afternoon but very windy. Walk into Trumpington for supplies but can't find any meths for stove. Eventually find pharmacy where they charge an inflated price for a small bottle. Phone letting agents to check on status of house.
Weds 27th may
Another cloudy, drizzly day. Clears up late morning so cycle short distance to St. Neots calling in Tesco to buy a technology magazine. Spend rest of afternoon reading and doing crossword and mathematical puzzles. Nice to do something cerebral for a change.
Thurs 28th may
You wouldn't credit it, had first case of dicky stomach last night. Wake up at 04:30 and make dash to loo. Wander back to tent and notice one of my panniers had gone. Search surrounding area in case this site had kleptomaniac wildlife but I conclude it was stolen by a low-life. Strangely it was the broken pannier with my old clothes in they took!
With reduced carrying capacity I decide to dump unessential items, pack and head home. Set out at 06:00 and make fairly good time, arriving at letting agents by 12:30. Get keys and am in home by 13:00. Quick trip into attic for kettle to make a cuppa and all's well with the world again. Sitting down with a cup of tea and reflecting, the past 8 or so months seem very surreal. Glad I kept a daily log, I think I'll need to convince myself that I actually did it.
Tuesday, 2 June 2009
Wednesday, 20 May 2009
Into northern France
Fri 1st may
Happy may day everyone. My last month on the road starts with glorious weather so walk round Chalons en Champagne and grab a bit of culture. Everywhere is very quiet as it's a holiday but the cathedral and churches are open which is fine as i'm into gothic at the mo. Chalons is a pleasant place to stroll around due to the waterways, green space and variety of architecture; lots of timber frames, decorative brickwork and carved stone.
Sat 2nd may
Give bike an overhaul, repair puncture etc. Back into Chalons to visit fine arts museum, a little disappointing as half of it was shut for refurbishment. Incidentally, fine arts museums in France cover just about everything; natural history, geology, furniture, etc. as well as paintings and sculptures. Return to find the two german cycle tourists here yesterday have been replaced by two from Holland. This stretch of France down to Troyes is on the Santiago pilgrims route so more walkers and cyclists than usual.
Sun 3rd may
A grey, chilly morning threatening showers. Lent campsite book to one of the dutch cyclists whilst packing. Set out NE to look at Atilla's camp; turned out to be just a large ring shaped earthworks. Sign said it was probably Celtic but 'called' Atilla's camp. Atilla did meet the Romans somewhere near Chalons but i've no idea where. Head for St. Hilaire au Temple and the Templar fair which was a cross between a farmers market and craft fair, the only thing Knights Templar about it were the few people wearing white tunics with a red cross. Unless of course, the templars really did use battery operated clocks with a photo of a cat in the middle. Head NW towards Reims with plenty of time to spare so detour through various small villages which are deathly quiet as it's Sunday lunch. Passing through Bouy there is a model of Henri Farman's biplane, I guess he came from around here. With the flat featureless landscape, wind and grey skies the journey has turned out to be a little tedious and disappointing. Not sure whether to go through Reims or around it tomorrow.
Mon 4th may
As there is a town plan of Reims on my map and it looks fairly easy to get into I decide to give it a go. Apart from an initial 4k of busy road it was plain sailing (or cycling). Visit Basilique St. Remi; it's from this SE quarter of Reims centre that the real Quasimodo and Esmerelda came from apparently. Onto the cathedral but that's way over the top for my taste. There's another statute of Joan of Arc in front of cathedral. I've seen many depictions of her since the first statue at Alise sur Reine, obviously a popular lass in these parts. North out of Reims on quiet country roads through flat, featureless landscape and silent villages. Highlight is two military jets taking off from Reims-Champagne airfield while I munch my boulangerie lunch. Stop at nice municipal campsite at Guignicourt for 4.40 a night. Although it's been an overcast and chilly day the rain has held off.
Tues 5th may
Horrible, wet and windy, wait until 10 to see if it eased but no luck. Go back to bed until 14:00 then wander into village for supplies. Relax for rest of the day.
Weds 6th may
Still horrible, wet and windy. Decide to do exactly as yesterday. Starts to brighten up in evening.
Thurs 7th may
Hooray, sun is out, set of for Laon along country roads. Headwind picks up about 13:00 but otherwise a pleasant ride until just outside Laon where I have to go on D1044. Very busy and not much room. Follow campsite signs around northern outskirts of Laon to western edge. Pitch, have cuppa then stroll into Laon. Laon is on a plateau and the road up to it is busy and no pavement. City looks interesting so get guide from tourist info, look round the cathedral then head back for dinner.
Fri 8th may.
Nice morning, laze around until 12 then walk into Laon, find a footpath that bypasses most of the road and is a pleasant if steep climb up to the plateau. The plateau is crescent shaped so I start with the fort at one end and work my way round to the old city and cathedral at the other. Lots of historic stuff to see. Have lunch, everywhere is very quiet and most of the shops are shut, I guess it's holiday. Visit museum which has interesting variety of exhibits, apparently it has the most important collection of ancient greek articles outside the Louvre. A fascinating, relatively modern sculpture caught my attention, so unusual and realistic I had to take a photo. Also many roman votive offerings, where people would carve an image of what they wanted the gods to help with; looks like impotence or infertility was a big problem back then. Very sore feet by time I got back to camp.
Sat 9th may
Nice day as I set off for St. Quentin. Landscape is rather like a mattress, hills and valleys but the hilltops are all similar heights, consequently you can see for miles, with the four towers of Laon cathedral remaining visible for some 20 km. Clouds over during day but with the wind behind me for a change and the interesting scenery it's a really enjoyable journey. Too good to last, campsite at St. Quentin has closed down, fortunately there's one 6 km to the east. Busy road to get to it and its 9 € a night for pretty basic facilities but it'll do. Have first glass of 'bier brun' this trip, went down a treat.
Sun 10th may
Cycle through St. Quentin and onto Cambrai. Up and down all the way with long hills. Weather is hot but brisk wind keeps things cool. Landscape pretty much as before but more houses are of brick rather than stone. Good climb up to Bonavis, 12k S of Cambrai, an important part of the Hindenberg line during WW1 due to its view over the Cambrai plain. Camp on western edge of Cambrai.
Mon 11th may
Through Cambrai centre, not a particularly interesting place visually, then north to Marchiennes. Headwinds get tiresome again but landscape flattening out. No signs outside campsite so had to ask; no signs on toilet block either so had to guess.
Tues 12th may
Strong winds and rain so stay put. Absolutely miserable day so stay in bed until 15:00. Just set out to get supplies from village and rain stops; not long back and rain starts, good timing.
Weds 13th may
Rains until 10:00; pack and set off for Armentieres. Flat mud/clay countryside with scattered clumps of trees. Rain threatens but holds off all day. Although traffic gets very busy as I bypass Lille, cyclepaths on side of road make it a reasonably pleasant ride. Get puncture in front tyre, as i'm replacing inner tube a couple of french lads on MTB's stop to offer assistance. One spoke very good english as he'd studied at De Montfort university in Leicester. Camp near Houplines just E of Armentieres.
Thurs 14th may
Decent hot shower at last, the last few sites have had shabby shower blocks and barely warm water. Weather a little brighter and warmer. Look round Armentieres centre with it's interesting mix of styles; no madamoiselle though. Detour slightly to Kemmel to look for an Ossuary that's marked on the map. Very steep hills to get to where it should be but couldn't find it; find remnants of British WW1 command post though. On to Ypres and into centre. Almost totally destroyed in WW1 it's been rebuilt to how it was before and very nice it is to. Get info from tourist office then head to campsite just outside old city walls. A bargain at €4.50 a night. Pitch then walk along city ramparts and into centre for supplies. Very vibrant centre with lots of young folk and quite a few brits. Just get back and start dinner when thunder and showers start. Take evening stroll in the rain to Menin gate to watch the daily 'last post' ceremony. A lot of people there despite the bad weather, many of them are youngsters presumably on a school trip.
Fri 15th may
Rained all evening and not looking promising today. Clear slugs from inside of tent and mug. After not seeing many brits since leaving southern Spain, this campsite is full of them apart from one large group of Belgian kids on bicycles. Chat with another cycle tourist, Keith from Newcastle, who's doing part of the North Sea long distance cycle route. First comment was on the dreaded wind; he'd had to double back at one stage and says he was being blown along at 17kph without pedalling. As he's heading north to Brugge he gives me his belgian map of this area with campsites marked on it. Visit Flanders field WW1 museum, some effective displays and media but as it's very busy (schoolkids again) it is sometimes difficult to see the exhibits. On to municipal museum which has some wonderful pastel drawings and oil paintings by local artist Louise De Hem. Subject matter was a bit ordinary but technique and use of colour I thought was brilliant. Nearly bought a book of her work but didn't want to carry it back.
More rain and strong winds in afternoon. I was going to head back into France via Poperinge but I might head north through Belgium instead.
Sat 16th may
More rain and wind. Pack up and head N then NE along canalside to Diksmuide. As its quite sheltered its not too bad and it's flat. Weather improves after Diksmuide as I head N to Nieuwpoort on an old railway track, even get a bit of sun for a while. Campsite at Sint Jaris, just outside Nieuwpoort, can only charge for two people again; discrimination I call it. Wind quite strong again now and occasional showers; 8 day weather forecast at reception says showers and winds up to 50 or 60 km/h from W and SW which is precisely where i'm headed later. Cycle into Nieuwpoort for a look round, pleasant seaside town. Wind and showers die around 18:00 and sun makes an appearance for a while so manage to charge PDA for first time in days.
Sun 17th may
Overcast and windy as forecast. Set off for Dunkerque along cyclepaths. The Belgians are really geared up for cycling and despite the unpleasant weather there's a lot of them out today. Follow canal most of the way passing through the interesting centre of Veurne. Lots of tobacco and chocolate discount shops appear at Adinkerke near the French border and the cyclepaths disappear. Final stretch not particularly pleasant as wind picks up and scenery is dull. Find campsite on the coast just E of Dunkerque and pitch just before it starts raining. Weather brightens later so go for cycle around Malo-les-Bains but as it's Sunday it's quite lifeless.
Mon 18th may
Very pleasant morning for about an hour then it greys over and wind and showers start. Set out towards Calais through Dunkerque. Signs designed for motorists again, pointing to E40 which you can't cycle on, so use compass to keep heading west through the busy conurbation. Eventually reach D601 which is a fast dual carriageway but no other real option. Wind very strong and blows bike around, fortunately it tries to blow me off the road rather than into it. The journey is extremely unpleasant and by the time I reach Gravelines 25km later i've had enough. Head for campsite just north at Petit-Fort-Philippe and find a nice sheltered spot for €5.13 a night. Gravelines looks an interesting place; I passed through it on my way down through France but I might try and find out more about it tomorrow.
Tue 19th may
Lovely sunny day but wind still up. Weather definitely seems to be improving bit by bit. Head off for Calais along quiet minor road so journey is better than yesterday even though it's windy. Get to Calais at about 13:00 and consider whether to catch ferry today but decide to camp here tonight. Cycle down to seafront and onto beach for a sit down. I can just make out the English coast and can't help smiling as I realise that at least I've made it back here; only England to get through now. I did consider using the chunnel but as the ferry port is almost next door to campsite i'll sail back.
Happy may day everyone. My last month on the road starts with glorious weather so walk round Chalons en Champagne and grab a bit of culture. Everywhere is very quiet as it's a holiday but the cathedral and churches are open which is fine as i'm into gothic at the mo. Chalons is a pleasant place to stroll around due to the waterways, green space and variety of architecture; lots of timber frames, decorative brickwork and carved stone.
Sat 2nd may
Give bike an overhaul, repair puncture etc. Back into Chalons to visit fine arts museum, a little disappointing as half of it was shut for refurbishment. Incidentally, fine arts museums in France cover just about everything; natural history, geology, furniture, etc. as well as paintings and sculptures. Return to find the two german cycle tourists here yesterday have been replaced by two from Holland. This stretch of France down to Troyes is on the Santiago pilgrims route so more walkers and cyclists than usual.
Sun 3rd may
A grey, chilly morning threatening showers. Lent campsite book to one of the dutch cyclists whilst packing. Set out NE to look at Atilla's camp; turned out to be just a large ring shaped earthworks. Sign said it was probably Celtic but 'called' Atilla's camp. Atilla did meet the Romans somewhere near Chalons but i've no idea where. Head for St. Hilaire au Temple and the Templar fair which was a cross between a farmers market and craft fair, the only thing Knights Templar about it were the few people wearing white tunics with a red cross. Unless of course, the templars really did use battery operated clocks with a photo of a cat in the middle. Head NW towards Reims with plenty of time to spare so detour through various small villages which are deathly quiet as it's Sunday lunch. Passing through Bouy there is a model of Henri Farman's biplane, I guess he came from around here. With the flat featureless landscape, wind and grey skies the journey has turned out to be a little tedious and disappointing. Not sure whether to go through Reims or around it tomorrow.
Mon 4th may
As there is a town plan of Reims on my map and it looks fairly easy to get into I decide to give it a go. Apart from an initial 4k of busy road it was plain sailing (or cycling). Visit Basilique St. Remi; it's from this SE quarter of Reims centre that the real Quasimodo and Esmerelda came from apparently. Onto the cathedral but that's way over the top for my taste. There's another statute of Joan of Arc in front of cathedral. I've seen many depictions of her since the first statue at Alise sur Reine, obviously a popular lass in these parts. North out of Reims on quiet country roads through flat, featureless landscape and silent villages. Highlight is two military jets taking off from Reims-Champagne airfield while I munch my boulangerie lunch. Stop at nice municipal campsite at Guignicourt for 4.40 a night. Although it's been an overcast and chilly day the rain has held off.
Tues 5th may
Horrible, wet and windy, wait until 10 to see if it eased but no luck. Go back to bed until 14:00 then wander into village for supplies. Relax for rest of the day.
Weds 6th may
Still horrible, wet and windy. Decide to do exactly as yesterday. Starts to brighten up in evening.
Thurs 7th may
Hooray, sun is out, set of for Laon along country roads. Headwind picks up about 13:00 but otherwise a pleasant ride until just outside Laon where I have to go on D1044. Very busy and not much room. Follow campsite signs around northern outskirts of Laon to western edge. Pitch, have cuppa then stroll into Laon. Laon is on a plateau and the road up to it is busy and no pavement. City looks interesting so get guide from tourist info, look round the cathedral then head back for dinner.
Fri 8th may.
Nice morning, laze around until 12 then walk into Laon, find a footpath that bypasses most of the road and is a pleasant if steep climb up to the plateau. The plateau is crescent shaped so I start with the fort at one end and work my way round to the old city and cathedral at the other. Lots of historic stuff to see. Have lunch, everywhere is very quiet and most of the shops are shut, I guess it's holiday. Visit museum which has interesting variety of exhibits, apparently it has the most important collection of ancient greek articles outside the Louvre. A fascinating, relatively modern sculpture caught my attention, so unusual and realistic I had to take a photo. Also many roman votive offerings, where people would carve an image of what they wanted the gods to help with; looks like impotence or infertility was a big problem back then. Very sore feet by time I got back to camp.
Sat 9th may
Nice day as I set off for St. Quentin. Landscape is rather like a mattress, hills and valleys but the hilltops are all similar heights, consequently you can see for miles, with the four towers of Laon cathedral remaining visible for some 20 km. Clouds over during day but with the wind behind me for a change and the interesting scenery it's a really enjoyable journey. Too good to last, campsite at St. Quentin has closed down, fortunately there's one 6 km to the east. Busy road to get to it and its 9 € a night for pretty basic facilities but it'll do. Have first glass of 'bier brun' this trip, went down a treat.
Sun 10th may
Cycle through St. Quentin and onto Cambrai. Up and down all the way with long hills. Weather is hot but brisk wind keeps things cool. Landscape pretty much as before but more houses are of brick rather than stone. Good climb up to Bonavis, 12k S of Cambrai, an important part of the Hindenberg line during WW1 due to its view over the Cambrai plain. Camp on western edge of Cambrai.
Mon 11th may
Through Cambrai centre, not a particularly interesting place visually, then north to Marchiennes. Headwinds get tiresome again but landscape flattening out. No signs outside campsite so had to ask; no signs on toilet block either so had to guess.
Tues 12th may
Strong winds and rain so stay put. Absolutely miserable day so stay in bed until 15:00. Just set out to get supplies from village and rain stops; not long back and rain starts, good timing.
Weds 13th may
Rains until 10:00; pack and set off for Armentieres. Flat mud/clay countryside with scattered clumps of trees. Rain threatens but holds off all day. Although traffic gets very busy as I bypass Lille, cyclepaths on side of road make it a reasonably pleasant ride. Get puncture in front tyre, as i'm replacing inner tube a couple of french lads on MTB's stop to offer assistance. One spoke very good english as he'd studied at De Montfort university in Leicester. Camp near Houplines just E of Armentieres.
Thurs 14th may
Decent hot shower at last, the last few sites have had shabby shower blocks and barely warm water. Weather a little brighter and warmer. Look round Armentieres centre with it's interesting mix of styles; no madamoiselle though. Detour slightly to Kemmel to look for an Ossuary that's marked on the map. Very steep hills to get to where it should be but couldn't find it; find remnants of British WW1 command post though. On to Ypres and into centre. Almost totally destroyed in WW1 it's been rebuilt to how it was before and very nice it is to. Get info from tourist office then head to campsite just outside old city walls. A bargain at €4.50 a night. Pitch then walk along city ramparts and into centre for supplies. Very vibrant centre with lots of young folk and quite a few brits. Just get back and start dinner when thunder and showers start. Take evening stroll in the rain to Menin gate to watch the daily 'last post' ceremony. A lot of people there despite the bad weather, many of them are youngsters presumably on a school trip.
Fri 15th may
Rained all evening and not looking promising today. Clear slugs from inside of tent and mug. After not seeing many brits since leaving southern Spain, this campsite is full of them apart from one large group of Belgian kids on bicycles. Chat with another cycle tourist, Keith from Newcastle, who's doing part of the North Sea long distance cycle route. First comment was on the dreaded wind; he'd had to double back at one stage and says he was being blown along at 17kph without pedalling. As he's heading north to Brugge he gives me his belgian map of this area with campsites marked on it. Visit Flanders field WW1 museum, some effective displays and media but as it's very busy (schoolkids again) it is sometimes difficult to see the exhibits. On to municipal museum which has some wonderful pastel drawings and oil paintings by local artist Louise De Hem. Subject matter was a bit ordinary but technique and use of colour I thought was brilliant. Nearly bought a book of her work but didn't want to carry it back.
More rain and strong winds in afternoon. I was going to head back into France via Poperinge but I might head north through Belgium instead.
Sat 16th may
More rain and wind. Pack up and head N then NE along canalside to Diksmuide. As its quite sheltered its not too bad and it's flat. Weather improves after Diksmuide as I head N to Nieuwpoort on an old railway track, even get a bit of sun for a while. Campsite at Sint Jaris, just outside Nieuwpoort, can only charge for two people again; discrimination I call it. Wind quite strong again now and occasional showers; 8 day weather forecast at reception says showers and winds up to 50 or 60 km/h from W and SW which is precisely where i'm headed later. Cycle into Nieuwpoort for a look round, pleasant seaside town. Wind and showers die around 18:00 and sun makes an appearance for a while so manage to charge PDA for first time in days.
Sun 17th may
Overcast and windy as forecast. Set off for Dunkerque along cyclepaths. The Belgians are really geared up for cycling and despite the unpleasant weather there's a lot of them out today. Follow canal most of the way passing through the interesting centre of Veurne. Lots of tobacco and chocolate discount shops appear at Adinkerke near the French border and the cyclepaths disappear. Final stretch not particularly pleasant as wind picks up and scenery is dull. Find campsite on the coast just E of Dunkerque and pitch just before it starts raining. Weather brightens later so go for cycle around Malo-les-Bains but as it's Sunday it's quite lifeless.
Mon 18th may
Very pleasant morning for about an hour then it greys over and wind and showers start. Set out towards Calais through Dunkerque. Signs designed for motorists again, pointing to E40 which you can't cycle on, so use compass to keep heading west through the busy conurbation. Eventually reach D601 which is a fast dual carriageway but no other real option. Wind very strong and blows bike around, fortunately it tries to blow me off the road rather than into it. The journey is extremely unpleasant and by the time I reach Gravelines 25km later i've had enough. Head for campsite just north at Petit-Fort-Philippe and find a nice sheltered spot for €5.13 a night. Gravelines looks an interesting place; I passed through it on my way down through France but I might try and find out more about it tomorrow.
Tue 19th may
Lovely sunny day but wind still up. Weather definitely seems to be improving bit by bit. Head off for Calais along quiet minor road so journey is better than yesterday even though it's windy. Get to Calais at about 13:00 and consider whether to catch ferry today but decide to camp here tonight. Cycle down to seafront and onto beach for a sit down. I can just make out the English coast and can't help smiling as I realise that at least I've made it back here; only England to get through now. I did consider using the chunnel but as the ferry port is almost next door to campsite i'll sail back.
Friday, 1 May 2009
North to Chalon
Mon 27th apr
Rains stopped but its a chilly and damp morning.
As it's monday most places are shut. Take walk around centre of Troyes with it's multitude of skewed wood frame house and ornate gothic churches; fascinating place. Although extensive renovation work has been underway for many years much still neeeds to be done. The cathedral still has a lot of moss growing over the gothic carvings which gives it an organic feel I really like. Find free wi-fi and an internet place so update blog and add a few pics. Sun makes an appearance late afternoon. Watch strange antics of mayflies in the evening, thousands of them fluttering up then floating down with their forked tails, by 21:00 they've all gone.
Tues 28th apr
Another grey, cold and damp morning. Visit fine arts museum in Troyes. By the time i'd seen the painting, sculptures, natural history, geology and 2/3rds of the archeology section it was lunchtime and I was thrown out. Shame as the archeology section was quite good. Sticklers for their lunchtime these french. Have bite to eat then wander round cathedral. The outside was much more interesting than the inside. Off to modern art museum, many famous names and a few interesting ideas but a couple of sculptures by Rodin were about the best things there. On way back when heavens opened again, hail, lightning, strong gusts, the works. Shelter for 15 mins and the suns out again. Call in cybercafe to dump pictures from camera to the web. Been having problems with corrupt image files, found odd file (fun.xls) on storage card. Get back to camp and reformat the card, hopefully that will cure it. More mayflies in the evening; checked up on them whilst on internet, strange creatures.
Wed 29th apr
Weather still looks unsettled. Head north a short way to Arcis sur Aube. Low, featureless undulating landscape and straight road make easy but uninteresting cycling. Pleasant friendly campsite but Arcis itself has little of interest. Weather starts to clear in evening.
Thur 30th apr
Clear blue skies and sunshine. More undulating landscape with large hedgeless fields and big skies as I head for Chalons en Champagne. Only a slight breeze, the wind turbines are static. Reach Chalons en Champagne in good time and campsite is well signposted, book in for 3 nights as get 20% discount. Have cuppa then walk 1k to large hypermarket to stock up, it's Mayday tomorrow and shops will be closed. Have another cuppa then walk 3k into Chalons and the tourist info. Get guide to town and discover there is the 13th Templar fair on Sunday at one of the places I was going to travel through. Things seem to have worked out well.
Rains stopped but its a chilly and damp morning.
As it's monday most places are shut. Take walk around centre of Troyes with it's multitude of skewed wood frame house and ornate gothic churches; fascinating place. Although extensive renovation work has been underway for many years much still neeeds to be done. The cathedral still has a lot of moss growing over the gothic carvings which gives it an organic feel I really like. Find free wi-fi and an internet place so update blog and add a few pics. Sun makes an appearance late afternoon. Watch strange antics of mayflies in the evening, thousands of them fluttering up then floating down with their forked tails, by 21:00 they've all gone.
Tues 28th apr
Another grey, cold and damp morning. Visit fine arts museum in Troyes. By the time i'd seen the painting, sculptures, natural history, geology and 2/3rds of the archeology section it was lunchtime and I was thrown out. Shame as the archeology section was quite good. Sticklers for their lunchtime these french. Have bite to eat then wander round cathedral. The outside was much more interesting than the inside. Off to modern art museum, many famous names and a few interesting ideas but a couple of sculptures by Rodin were about the best things there. On way back when heavens opened again, hail, lightning, strong gusts, the works. Shelter for 15 mins and the suns out again. Call in cybercafe to dump pictures from camera to the web. Been having problems with corrupt image files, found odd file (fun.xls) on storage card. Get back to camp and reformat the card, hopefully that will cure it. More mayflies in the evening; checked up on them whilst on internet, strange creatures.
Wed 29th apr
Weather still looks unsettled. Head north a short way to Arcis sur Aube. Low, featureless undulating landscape and straight road make easy but uninteresting cycling. Pleasant friendly campsite but Arcis itself has little of interest. Weather starts to clear in evening.
Thur 30th apr
Clear blue skies and sunshine. More undulating landscape with large hedgeless fields and big skies as I head for Chalons en Champagne. Only a slight breeze, the wind turbines are static. Reach Chalons en Champagne in good time and campsite is well signposted, book in for 3 nights as get 20% discount. Have cuppa then walk 1k to large hypermarket to stock up, it's Mayday tomorrow and shops will be closed. Have another cuppa then walk 3k into Chalons and the tourist info. Get guide to town and discover there is the 13th Templar fair on Sunday at one of the places I was going to travel through. Things seem to have worked out well.
Monday, 27 April 2009
a couple of heroes
As its so long since i thought i would let you see what a handsome chap I am.
Vercingetorix is the other bloke
over the hills
Sat 18th apr.
Take stroll into Beaune and around the city ramparts to the library.
Manage to tidy up the multiple posts that had occurred through intermittent wi-fi connection. Copied text from pda and pictures from camera using memory cards through USB. Just finished when librarian came along to tell me I wasn't allowed to use the USB port. Get lunch and just reach tent when heavens open again and cracking thunderstorm starts.
Take stroll into Beaune and around the city ramparts to the library.
Manage to tidy up the multiple posts that had occurred through intermittent wi-fi connection. Copied text from pda and pictures from camera using memory cards through USB. Just finished when librarian came along to tell me I wasn't allowed to use the USB port. Get lunch and just reach tent when heavens open again and cracking thunderstorm starts.
Sun 19th apr
Clear skies and sunshine as set out for Dijon. As it's sunday the main road is fairly quiet. Vineyards climb most of the way up the limestone hills to the left giving way to woodland on the hilltops. To the right a large flat plain with vineyards and occasionally other crops. At this time of the year the vines are just neat rows of short (30-40cm) stumps sticking out of the soil like withered limbs. Entry into Dijon is wonderfully easy with a bus/cycle lane most of the way to the centre. Head to Lac Kir and campsite on the western outskirts of the city, pitch and then take 25 minute walk into the city centre. Walking to the centre was also a pleasure as much of it was on a strip of parkland alongside the river Ouche. Get map and guidebook from tourist info and have brief look round. Enough here to keep me another day I think.
Mon 20th apr
Walk back into Dijon, past a house on fire, and visit the natural history museum. Interesting selection of exhibits but in particular the 50 million year old fossilised carapace, spiky tail and bones of a very large Glyptodon; an armadillo type creature. Apparently humans sheltered under the carapace for a time. Carry on with guidebook tour; lots of ornate maisons, mansions and other historic stuff. Wander round fine arts museum but didn't find much i liked, all a bit lifeless, also much of it was shut for reorganization. There were quite a few artists scattered about copying some of the works.
Archeology museum was also shut but can't complain as all the museums in Dijon are free to visit. All in all I spent 5 hours wandering round so head back for grub and rest feet. Not long back and rain and thunder make an appearance again. Good timing I think.
Tue 21st apr
Set out west along country roads by the river Ouche then along a cycle path beside the Canal de Bourgogne. It's a lovely sunny day, very peaceful and pleasant. Pick up main road towards Vitteaux and the wind picks up as well. Long gradual climb to Sobernon then down into valleyof river Brenne. Scenery has changed from vineyards to green grassy valleys dotted with white cows and wooded hilltops. Reach nice little campsite at Vitteaux with no campervans or caravans just four other tents. Weather forecast at reception says it is 20 kph winds from the north today I reckon they were stronger than that at times.
Some folk have asked whether I celebrated easter; of course, I had 'lapin saute aux 2 moutardes' for dinner. Quite appropriate I thought especially as one of the mustards was Dijon.
Wed 22nd apr
10kph headwinds forecast for today but i'm not going far; 20k to Venarey les Laumes. After a scenic and fairly quiet ride and a few photo stops I arrive and pitch up. Take unladen bike up very steep hills (3 arrows on map) through Alise Sainte Reine to top of Mt Auxois. On the western edge of the plateau is the 6.6 metre high statue of Vercingetorix on his 7 metre pedestal courtesy of Napoleon III. In the centre of the plateau is the gallo-roman remains of Alesia. The siege of Alesia and the surrender of Vercingetorix was the turning point in Julius Caesars conquest of Gaul in 52 BC. Having read about it some time ago it was nice to see the actual site and get an idea of the true scale of the siege. Move tent when I return to camp as unhappy with signs of mole activity nearby.
Thurs 23rd apr
Had long chat with Dave and Sylvia who I met briefly yesterday. Dave is one of the 'old school' cyclists; handmade traditional frame for his bike and their tandem, not a scrap of branded lycra to be seen. Interesting chap to talk to as he's done a lot of cycle touring as well as off road stuff in Scotland with the 'rough riders fellowship'. Set off fairly late, about 12, still, only 20k odd to do today. Head towards Montbard along the Brenne valley calling in on Fontenay Abbey on the way. Lovely 3k ride along the Fontenay valley as they've slapped a preservation order on it. Look round the abbey which is privately owned and slightly disappointing I thought. Although it is an attractive building in a wonderful setting the abbey at Villenueve les Avignon was more interesting to look round. As I was leaving I bumped into Dave and Sylvia who had just arrived after cycling alongside the canal de Bourgogne on their tandem. Carry on to Montbard and very nice campsite with free use of municipal indoor and outdoor pool, as it's a hot day both are busy.
Fri 24th apr
Ice inside and outside the tent this morning, consequently sleeping bag is wet where ice has melted and dripped. Nice sunny day so put everything out to dry. Set off 11ish to Chatillon sur Seine, long climb to top of plateau then rolling hills for next 25k or so. Again nice scenery with lush green fields, lots of woodland, occasional fields of rape and the sound of skylarks. Usual persistent headwind makes going harder than it should be but it keeps me cool. Very steep hill up to campsite at Chatillon where i'm told the museum is shut. This is a bit of a disappointment as I had wanted to see a few things there, in particular the 1.6 metre high bronze Vix vase. Pitch up and go for stroll to look round and find dinner. Nice evening so go for another stroll after dinner to take a few photos. Visit the source of the river Douix, one of the oldest known water shrines in Europe. Very atmospheric in the setting sun, I can see why it has held an attraction for so long. Climb steep zig zag path up cliff side behind the spring back to campsite.
Sat 25th apr
Winds flipped to south-westerly so rain on its way. Sure enough it starts about 9 and rains for most of the day. Strolled into town to visit municipal library, as I passed by the source of the Douix a group of divers were getting ready to continue tracing its underground path. Rather them than me. Municipal library was shut for alterations and can't find any other internet access in the town. Call in to see inside the 10th Century St. Vorles church near the campsite on way
back.
Sun 26th apr
Still raining in morning, pack up everything except tent and wait for a break. Chat with a scottish chap who arrived yesterday evening. He'd bought a Claud Butler touring bike for his retirement, flew to Nice and was cycling north to catch 'chunnel' home. As he was doing it to lose weight and get fit he was cycling 80 odd miles a day. First thing he commented on was the frustration of having to cycle against the Mistral. Rain eased about 11 so set off for Troyes, about 70k to the north west along the Seine valley. Raining as left Chatillon but stopped shortly after which was as well as I had puncture in rear tyre. Fix it and carry on. Although its a grey cloudy day the scenery's nice, limestone escarpments and rolling hills with wooded hilltops, flattening out as you get nearer Troyes. As it's Champagne country there's a few vineyards on the escarpment slopes. Apparently Renoir had his studio around here at Essoyes. Just reach campsite at Pont Ste. Marie, north east outskirts of Troyes, when heavens open again. Pitch tent in about 20 seconds, get cup of tea on the go and sit it out. Heavy rain all evening and into the night. Will probably stop here a day or two and explore Troyes then get to Chalons en Champagne for beginning of May.
Saturday, 18 April 2009
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