over the hills

Sat 18th apr.
Take stroll into Beaune and around the city ramparts to the library.
Manage to tidy up the multiple posts that had occurred through intermittent wi-fi connection. Copied text from pda and pictures from camera using memory cards through USB. Just finished when librarian came along to tell me I wasn't allowed to use the USB port. Get lunch and just reach tent when heavens open again and cracking thunderstorm starts.

Sun 19th apr
Clear skies and sunshine as set out for Dijon. As it's sunday the main road is fairly quiet. Vineyards climb most of the way up the limestone hills to the left giving way to woodland on the hilltops. To the right a large flat plain with vineyards and occasionally other crops. At this time of the year the vines are just neat rows of short (30-40cm) stumps sticking out of the soil like withered limbs. Entry into Dijon is wonderfully easy with a bus/cycle lane most of the way to the centre. Head to Lac Kir and campsite on the western outskirts of the city, pitch and then take 25 minute walk into the city centre. Walking to the centre was also a pleasure as much of it was on a strip of parkland alongside the river Ouche. Get map and guidebook from tourist info and have brief look round. Enough here to keep me another day I think.

Mon 20th apr
Walk back into Dijon, past a house on fire, and visit the natural history museum. Interesting selection of exhibits but in particular the 50 million year old fossilised carapace, spiky tail and bones of a very large Glyptodon; an armadillo type creature. Apparently humans sheltered under the carapace for a time. Carry on with guidebook tour; lots of ornate maisons, mansions and other historic stuff. Wander round fine arts museum but didn't find much i liked, all a bit lifeless, also much of it was shut for reorganization. There were quite a few artists scattered about copying some of the works.
Archeology museum was also shut but can't complain as all the museums in Dijon are free to visit. All in all I spent 5 hours wandering round so head back for grub and rest feet. Not long back and rain and thunder make an appearance again. Good timing I think.

Tue 21st apr
Set out west along country roads by the river Ouche then along a cycle path beside the Canal de Bourgogne. It's a lovely sunny day, very peaceful and pleasant. Pick up main road towards Vitteaux and the wind picks up as well. Long gradual climb to Sobernon then down into valleyof river Brenne. Scenery has changed from vineyards to green grassy valleys dotted with white cows and wooded hilltops. Reach nice little campsite at Vitteaux with no campervans or caravans just four other tents. Weather forecast at reception says it is 20 kph winds from the north today I reckon they were stronger than that at times.
Some folk have asked whether I celebrated easter; of course, I had 'lapin saute aux 2 moutardes' for dinner. Quite appropriate I thought especially as one of the mustards was Dijon.

Wed 22nd apr
10kph headwinds forecast for today but i'm not going far; 20k to Venarey les Laumes. After a scenic and fairly quiet ride and a few photo stops I arrive and pitch up. Take unladen bike up very steep hills (3 arrows on map) through Alise Sainte Reine to top of Mt Auxois. On the western edge of the plateau is the 6.6 metre high statue of Vercingetorix on his 7 metre pedestal courtesy of Napoleon III. In the centre of the plateau is the gallo-roman remains of Alesia. The siege of Alesia and the surrender of Vercingetorix was the turning point in Julius Caesars conquest of Gaul in 52 BC. Having read about it some time ago it was nice to see the actual site and get an idea of the true scale of the siege. Move tent when I return to camp as unhappy with signs of mole activity nearby.

Thurs 23rd apr
Had long chat with Dave and Sylvia who I met briefly yesterday. Dave is one of the 'old school' cyclists; handmade traditional frame for his bike and their tandem, not a scrap of branded lycra to be seen. Interesting chap to talk to as he's done a lot of cycle touring as well as off road stuff in Scotland with the 'rough riders fellowship'. Set off fairly late, about 12, still, only 20k odd to do today. Head towards Montbard along the Brenne valley calling in on Fontenay Abbey on the way. Lovely 3k ride along the Fontenay valley as they've slapped a preservation order on it. Look round the abbey which is privately owned and slightly disappointing I thought. Although it is an attractive building in a wonderful setting the abbey at Villenueve les Avignon was more interesting to look round. As I was leaving I bumped into Dave and Sylvia who had just arrived after cycling alongside the canal de Bourgogne on their tandem. Carry on to Montbard and very nice campsite with free use of municipal indoor and outdoor pool, as it's a hot day both are busy.

Fri 24th apr
Ice inside and outside the tent this morning, consequently sleeping bag is wet where ice has melted and dripped. Nice sunny day so put everything out to dry. Set off 11ish to Chatillon sur Seine, long climb to top of plateau then rolling hills for next 25k or so. Again nice scenery with lush green fields, lots of woodland, occasional fields of rape and the sound of skylarks. Usual persistent headwind makes going harder than it should be but it keeps me cool. Very steep hill up to campsite at Chatillon where i'm told the museum is shut. This is a bit of a disappointment as I had wanted to see a few things there, in particular the 1.6 metre high bronze Vix vase. Pitch up and go for stroll to look round and find dinner. Nice evening so go for another stroll after dinner to take a few photos. Visit the source of the river Douix, one of the oldest known water shrines in Europe. Very atmospheric in the setting sun, I can see why it has held an attraction for so long. Climb steep zig zag path up cliff side behind the spring back to campsite.

Sat 25th apr
Winds flipped to south-westerly so rain on its way. Sure enough it starts about 9 and rains for most of the day. Strolled into town to visit municipal library, as I passed by the source of the Douix a group of divers were getting ready to continue tracing its underground path. Rather them than me. Municipal library was shut for alterations and can't find any other internet access in the town. Call in to see inside the 10th Century St. Vorles church near the campsite on way
back.

Sun 26th apr
Still raining in morning, pack up everything except tent and wait for a break. Chat with a scottish chap who arrived yesterday evening. He'd bought a Claud Butler touring bike for his retirement, flew to Nice and was cycling north to catch 'chunnel' home. As he was doing it to lose weight and get fit he was cycling 80 odd miles a day. First thing he commented on was the frustration of having to cycle against the Mistral. Rain eased about 11 so set off for Troyes, about 70k to the north west along the Seine valley. Raining as left Chatillon but stopped shortly after which was as well as I had puncture in rear tyre. Fix it and carry on. Although its a grey cloudy day the scenery's nice, limestone escarpments and rolling hills with wooded hilltops, flattening out as you get nearer Troyes. As it's Champagne country there's a few vineyards on the escarpment slopes. Apparently Renoir had his studio around here at Essoyes. Just reach campsite at Pont Ste. Marie, north east outskirts of Troyes, when heavens open again. Pitch tent in about 20 seconds, get cup of tea on the go and sit it out. Heavy rain all evening and into the night. Will probably stop here a day or two and explore Troyes then get to Chalons en Champagne for beginning of May.