Fri 17th
Decided to have a go at getting to Lascaux to see the caves. Headed out at found strange art deco campsite in Perigueux itself complete with bar. Planning next stage looks awkward due to terrain and campsites.
Sat 18th
Very cold night; had difficulty keeping warm with kit I've got. Decide not to risk heading into them thar hills so look round Perigueux as consolation. Visit Gallo-roman Temple and Arena (turned into nice park with stylish water feature, the gladiators would have loved it) And a quick look in museum. Perigueux itself is very interesting especially a house I saw that appears to be built on a tall wall; I guess there wasn't room for a ground floor.
Sun 19th
Another very cold night. Take advantage of quiet roads and take main route back west: about 75K in 5 hours, nice smooth road but uninteresting.
Mon 20th
Head for south of Bordeaux; nice sunny day. Bordeaux looks fascinating and I would have liked more time there. Camp south of the city and find Bill and Marsha, the canadians, there. they're heading into Spain as well and had found campsite book so borrow it for a quick browse; Looks like big gaps in available sites until Portugal. They intend cutting across Spain to catch a ferry to Italy to spend christmas with their children there.
Tues 21
Cloudy, threatening rain as head south. Straight flat roads through endless pine forests so make good time but rain starts mid morning. Decide to detour to larger town for supplies; visit bar for a coffee and find it is right beside a hotel. being rational and areligious I took it as a sign from the gods and booked in. TV, beer, bath, bed, heaven.
Weds 22
Another easy ride south in cloudy but dry weather. More pine forests so it is now getting boring. Make it to campsite to find Bill and Marsha again; they had had a wet night camping. Managed to get reasonable atlas of Spain to plan next stage. Solar charged PDA but was accidentally switched on so lost more charge than it gained.
Thurs 23
bitterly cold night; sleeping bag, fleece liner, silk liner and thermals needed but still not particularly warm. Must upgrade kit. Stray cats were foraging around last night sticking their heads under the flysheet in the hopes of food. Gave me quite a start. Cycle to Ondres just N of Bayonne to camp
Fri 24
Another bitterly cold night. Cycle through Bayonne and find Decathlon on outskits. Buy better quality sleeping bag which should help at nights although the lightweight tent I have is not ideally suited to these conditions; due to heat from my body and cold tent the condensation drips through the mesh inner onto me. On through Biarritz (very hot day and folk are surfing and sunbathing) Things are getting hilly now but the scenery is good. First glimpse of Pyrenees.
Spain tomorrow all being well
Friday, 24 October 2008
Thursday, 16 October 2008
Thurs 9th
Very cold morning but sun sone warms everything up as make way through Nantes and head SW. stop at sandwich shop for bite to eat. Order sandwich and can of beer and have chat with bloke sitting at one of the tables while it is prepared. Sandwich apperars along with a large loaf (brioche I believe). Looking slightly puzzled at the gorl behind the counter she explains it is courtesy of the patron and nods to guy I had been talking to. Offer thanks and sit outside in sun to eat. Next prob, how to strap brioche to bike without it ending up like a pitta. Manage it by making envelope out of waterproof jacket and trapping it by the edges with bungee cords. Looks rather like large orange ravioli strapped to rack. Was going to get food on way but no room now so straight to campsite to drop everything off. Nearest shop is now 15K away so end up doing extra 30K due to brioche; was nice though.
Fri10th
Pleasant day cycling through countryside punctuated by small villages with big churches and little else. Pretty humdrum day really
Sat 11th Set out for Rochefort via Rochelle. Rough winding roads make final stage of journey a bit tough. Stop to work out where campsite is and french cyclist stops to help. As he is headed in same direction cycle with him to site. Just as well as it was nowhere near where I thought it was. Notice Decathlon nearby so may stop over to get some bits and pieces on Monday.
Sun 12th
Lazy day in sun, washed a few things and charged up PDA
Mon 13th
Call into Decathlon to get gas cartridge, cycling glasses (previous ones had broke at Dover) and a dry bag to reorganise kit to prevent another brioche incident. Cycle out from Rochefort on very impressive bridge. Very busy but a white line protected from all those cars and lorries.
Had cultural fix by visiting Abbey at Trizay. It was closed but managed to see what I wanted by scaling wall. Pleasant half hour relaxing under shade of tree in abbey herb garden.
Tue 14th
Cycle S down coast meeting another french cyclist who is headed same way so chat in franglais for a while. Visit hermitage at Montagne sur Gironde but that's closed as well.
Arrive at campsite in Jonzac where bloke in reception looks supprised I when I tell him I'm in a tent. Everything seems designed for motorhomes so end up on narrow lumpy grass strip between toilet block and wire fence.
Wed 15th
Head towards Perigeaux with choice of two campsites, decided to go for furthest as going was good. Get to Menesplet and follow directions to campside which promptly directed me 4K back the way I had come. Arrive a bit fed up to find warm welcome and free carafe of local wine. As I'm in reception a woman knocks on door and asks if I would like dinner. As I had already bought stuff, and caught a little wrong footed I declined.
Pitch, cook and drink wine and all is well with the world.
Thurs 16th
Spoke too soon. Woke in night 01:00 to strange prodding sensations coming up from under tent. Turns out I had pitched on top of a mole run. After putting up with mole trying to clear tunnel that I kept on collapsing I gave up first and moved tent at 03:00. As I couldn't tell whether I was on top of another mole run I slept in the campsite day room.
Met one off the proprieters, Marianne originally from Nottingham, and later the other proprieter, Mark, comes along so end up having general chat. They had moved from Notts down to Cornwall but decided to buy this campsite and property and give it a go. End up stopping for dinnerand beer.
Very cold morning but sun sone warms everything up as make way through Nantes and head SW. stop at sandwich shop for bite to eat. Order sandwich and can of beer and have chat with bloke sitting at one of the tables while it is prepared. Sandwich apperars along with a large loaf (brioche I believe). Looking slightly puzzled at the gorl behind the counter she explains it is courtesy of the patron and nods to guy I had been talking to. Offer thanks and sit outside in sun to eat. Next prob, how to strap brioche to bike without it ending up like a pitta. Manage it by making envelope out of waterproof jacket and trapping it by the edges with bungee cords. Looks rather like large orange ravioli strapped to rack. Was going to get food on way but no room now so straight to campsite to drop everything off. Nearest shop is now 15K away so end up doing extra 30K due to brioche; was nice though.
Fri10th
Pleasant day cycling through countryside punctuated by small villages with big churches and little else. Pretty humdrum day really
Sat 11th Set out for Rochefort via Rochelle. Rough winding roads make final stage of journey a bit tough. Stop to work out where campsite is and french cyclist stops to help. As he is headed in same direction cycle with him to site. Just as well as it was nowhere near where I thought it was. Notice Decathlon nearby so may stop over to get some bits and pieces on Monday.
Sun 12th
Lazy day in sun, washed a few things and charged up PDA
Mon 13th
Call into Decathlon to get gas cartridge, cycling glasses (previous ones had broke at Dover) and a dry bag to reorganise kit to prevent another brioche incident. Cycle out from Rochefort on very impressive bridge. Very busy but a white line protected from all those cars and lorries.
Had cultural fix by visiting Abbey at Trizay. It was closed but managed to see what I wanted by scaling wall. Pleasant half hour relaxing under shade of tree in abbey herb garden.
Tue 14th
Cycle S down coast meeting another french cyclist who is headed same way so chat in franglais for a while. Visit hermitage at Montagne sur Gironde but that's closed as well.
Arrive at campsite in Jonzac where bloke in reception looks supprised I when I tell him I'm in a tent. Everything seems designed for motorhomes so end up on narrow lumpy grass strip between toilet block and wire fence.
Wed 15th
Head towards Perigeaux with choice of two campsites, decided to go for furthest as going was good. Get to Menesplet and follow directions to campside which promptly directed me 4K back the way I had come. Arrive a bit fed up to find warm welcome and free carafe of local wine. As I'm in reception a woman knocks on door and asks if I would like dinner. As I had already bought stuff, and caught a little wrong footed I declined.
Pitch, cook and drink wine and all is well with the world.
Thurs 16th
Spoke too soon. Woke in night 01:00 to strange prodding sensations coming up from under tent. Turns out I had pitched on top of a mole run. After putting up with mole trying to clear tunnel that I kept on collapsing I gave up first and moved tent at 03:00. As I couldn't tell whether I was on top of another mole run I slept in the campsite day room.
Met one off the proprieters, Marianne originally from Nottingham, and later the other proprieter, Mark, comes along so end up having general chat. They had moved from Notts down to Cornwall but decided to buy this campsite and property and give it a go. End up stopping for dinnerand beer.
Wednesday, 8 October 2008
Sun 5th
Thanks to everyone for comments and emails. After past few days they helped cheer me up a lot.
Walked into Rennes to see about catching train South. I might have if I could understandthe automated ticket system.
Mon 6th
Packed up and headed south for Guemene Pentao. Long trip as followed minor roads and the river Villaine. Pleasant countryside most notable for large tracts of woodland and particularly Sweet Chesnut trees.
In this wind the chesnuts fall off the trees and carpet the road ready for unsuspecting cyclist to cruise around the corner. Nearly came off the bike twice. Also had to run the gauntlet when cycling under an avenue of sweet chesnuts in the wind.
Generally stayed dry but windy with rain starting just as pitched tent so not too bad.
Tue 7th
Rain again as I pack and head South for Nantes. everything is damp or wet and muddy. The rather eager young girl at Guemene Pentao campsite assured me tomorrow will be fine and had the campsite been clean and pleasant I might have stayed a while.
Absolutely drenched by time reach Nantes but find campsite on Notrh West suburbs called Le Petit Port. Seems good so if weather good will take day off to clean and dry everything as on last set of dry clothing..
Weds 8th
THE SUN IS OUT!!!!!!!!
Take everything to laundry and get session on internet whilst its cooking. Now to air and clean everything else down.
Thanks to everyone for comments and emails. After past few days they helped cheer me up a lot.
Walked into Rennes to see about catching train South. I might have if I could understandthe automated ticket system.
Mon 6th
Packed up and headed south for Guemene Pentao. Long trip as followed minor roads and the river Villaine. Pleasant countryside most notable for large tracts of woodland and particularly Sweet Chesnut trees.
In this wind the chesnuts fall off the trees and carpet the road ready for unsuspecting cyclist to cruise around the corner. Nearly came off the bike twice. Also had to run the gauntlet when cycling under an avenue of sweet chesnuts in the wind.
Generally stayed dry but windy with rain starting just as pitched tent so not too bad.
Tue 7th
Rain again as I pack and head South for Nantes. everything is damp or wet and muddy. The rather eager young girl at Guemene Pentao campsite assured me tomorrow will be fine and had the campsite been clean and pleasant I might have stayed a while.
Absolutely drenched by time reach Nantes but find campsite on Notrh West suburbs called Le Petit Port. Seems good so if weather good will take day off to clean and dry everything as on last set of dry clothing..
Weds 8th
THE SUN IS OUT!!!!!!!!
Take everything to laundry and get session on internet whilst its cooking. Now to air and clean everything else down.
Sunday, 5 October 2008
rotten weather
Fri 3
Decide to make a break as wind in NE and Ièm heading SW so it may give me a hand.
Initially blows me across road till get used to it. Ride interspersed with diving for cover as hail pelts down. Beer and a Jambon and Camenbert sandwich restore spirits somewhat. After hours in the saddle back sets and I shuffle around like a constipated chimp until I can get some flexibility back. Get some funny looks.
Made it to Pontorson to camp; really nice campsite but it's called Haliotis and I cant help pronouncing it wrong.
Sat 4th
A nice sheltered spot gives a windless night; bliss. Chilly in morning but sun is out so time to head South. South Westerly wind starts to build, then the rain starts again. oh well.
Get to Rennes; get lost; find tourist office: find campsite is back the way I came in.
Chatted to bit of French fluff on neither bike nor motorbike ( see comments) but on foot. My powers of seduction resulted in finding where the nearest supermarket was; must try harder.
Sun 5th
Day off in Rennes to recouperate.
Decide to make a break as wind in NE and Ièm heading SW so it may give me a hand.
Initially blows me across road till get used to it. Ride interspersed with diving for cover as hail pelts down. Beer and a Jambon and Camenbert sandwich restore spirits somewhat. After hours in the saddle back sets and I shuffle around like a constipated chimp until I can get some flexibility back. Get some funny looks.
Made it to Pontorson to camp; really nice campsite but it's called Haliotis and I cant help pronouncing it wrong.
Sat 4th
A nice sheltered spot gives a windless night; bliss. Chilly in morning but sun is out so time to head South. South Westerly wind starts to build, then the rain starts again. oh well.
Get to Rennes; get lost; find tourist office: find campsite is back the way I came in.
Chatted to bit of French fluff on neither bike nor motorbike ( see comments) but on foot. My powers of seduction resulted in finding where the nearest supermarket was; must try harder.
Sun 5th
Day off in Rennes to recouperate.
Friday, 3 October 2008
Tues 23
Pack and head for Amiens. Lot of pedestrianisation going on there so things were a little chaotic. Cathedral adorned by usual scaffolding. Manage to extract myself and head towards Rouen before branching off to Poix de Picardie to camp. bought tape from local supermarket to try and repair tent. My french not brill so hope tape does what I think it says it does!
Days shooting by.
Weds 24
Off to Rouen to look for campsite on northern outskirts. Get totally lost as many roads did not allow bicycles. Ask at bar but get typical french shrug. Find bookshop and peruse camping book till find site then off to get map to find out exactly where I was. Find it eventually and settle down for evening
Thurs 25
Damp and grey start. Chat to bloke at campsite who is there for a few days while he gets clutch repaired. It burnt out on way to Greece. As he said " you can't tell your satnav you're towing a caravan.
Really difficult getting to centre of Rouen on a bike, extremely busy roads. Eventually make it in but seem to attract a few stares. whether this is due to odd bike or me or simply the fact I'd made it alive to the centre on a bike.
Manage to find my way out again and travel very scenic road to Roches d'Orival. Popular with the Lycra clad cyclists. On to Bec Hellouin which is very attractive but not a lot there apart from empty restaurants and an abbey that supplied two archbishops of canterbury courtesy of Willy the Conqueror. Nights are getting chilly now
Fri 26
Nice rural ride to Toutainville and on to Port Audemer to camp. First person I bump into is from Coalville. A few moments later he offers me a job resurfacing roads!
Sat 27
Very cold morning and condensation in tent is dreadful. Head of to Honfleur then Villers sur mer where meet young Norwegian cycle tourer. he was spending 10 months touring around. Found we were heading in same direction to Cabourg off we went. Both camped at Cabourg; nice to have a bit of company for a while.
Sun 28
Off to Caen for breakfast, quick look round cathedral then off to tourist office to ask about Peace museum several people have recommended. The point to a road and say follow signs. By the time I find it I am some way out of Caen so no breakfast. Museum very stylish but too much reading and not much exciting to look at. thought may as well carry on to Bayeaux to Camp. Meet two women, Patricia and Ionie ( forgive me if spelt names wrong ladies) in a camper van and start chatting. As pitching they invite me over for a drink. Get on very well and they invite me to stay for dinner.
Spend pleasant evening chatting, eating and drinking and turn at 11; late for me on this trip.
Mon 29
Pleasant day in Bayeaux looking at Tapestry exhibition and Battle of Normandy Museum. As cooking dinner my back went; just what i'd been dreading. Changed bike seating position to take strain off back. Borrowed campsite book of Patricia and Ionie who then suggested I keep it as they were on their way back.
Tue 30
Fitful night with bad back, took ages getting dressed and out of tent. Need to move on as campsite closing. Persistent rain and wind as head off to look at coastal gun batteries. Nearest open campsite was Carentan and headwind very strong, at one stage was having to pedal down hill, so took it easy and eventualy arrived 6:30; A wet, windy, uncomfortable day I must remember to forget.
Weds 1st Oct
Very strong winds rattle tent around during night, quite disconcerting. Luckier than german lad who had his tent pegs ripped out in middle of night. he managed to rescue tent before it blew away though. Decide to have rest day and stroll round Carentan.
Meet couple of canadian cycle tourists. they have sold their house and business and are now touring round: they spent last 3 months touring British Isles.
Thurs 2
Chilly night. Set of SW. Wind picks up and hail forces rapid retreat to cover. Weather changing rapidly with periods of wind, hail, rain and sun; another nasty ride. Meet canadian couple again; Jim and Marsha, find we're headed to same campsite. With it being the end of the season routes are basically determined by whatever campsites are still open. Camp at Donville les Bains and take stroll into nearby Granville. An old twisty hill place where I got lost and had to ask for directions.
Fri 3
Horrific winds and rain threaten tent so pack everything away just in case tent rips or pegs pull out; Apparently going to be like it all day so not sure quite what to do yet
Pack and head for Amiens. Lot of pedestrianisation going on there so things were a little chaotic. Cathedral adorned by usual scaffolding. Manage to extract myself and head towards Rouen before branching off to Poix de Picardie to camp. bought tape from local supermarket to try and repair tent. My french not brill so hope tape does what I think it says it does!
Days shooting by.
Weds 24
Off to Rouen to look for campsite on northern outskirts. Get totally lost as many roads did not allow bicycles. Ask at bar but get typical french shrug. Find bookshop and peruse camping book till find site then off to get map to find out exactly where I was. Find it eventually and settle down for evening
Thurs 25
Damp and grey start. Chat to bloke at campsite who is there for a few days while he gets clutch repaired. It burnt out on way to Greece. As he said " you can't tell your satnav you're towing a caravan.
Really difficult getting to centre of Rouen on a bike, extremely busy roads. Eventually make it in but seem to attract a few stares. whether this is due to odd bike or me or simply the fact I'd made it alive to the centre on a bike.
Manage to find my way out again and travel very scenic road to Roches d'Orival. Popular with the Lycra clad cyclists. On to Bec Hellouin which is very attractive but not a lot there apart from empty restaurants and an abbey that supplied two archbishops of canterbury courtesy of Willy the Conqueror. Nights are getting chilly now
Fri 26
Nice rural ride to Toutainville and on to Port Audemer to camp. First person I bump into is from Coalville. A few moments later he offers me a job resurfacing roads!
Sat 27
Very cold morning and condensation in tent is dreadful. Head of to Honfleur then Villers sur mer where meet young Norwegian cycle tourer. he was spending 10 months touring around. Found we were heading in same direction to Cabourg off we went. Both camped at Cabourg; nice to have a bit of company for a while.
Sun 28
Off to Caen for breakfast, quick look round cathedral then off to tourist office to ask about Peace museum several people have recommended. The point to a road and say follow signs. By the time I find it I am some way out of Caen so no breakfast. Museum very stylish but too much reading and not much exciting to look at. thought may as well carry on to Bayeaux to Camp. Meet two women, Patricia and Ionie ( forgive me if spelt names wrong ladies) in a camper van and start chatting. As pitching they invite me over for a drink. Get on very well and they invite me to stay for dinner.
Spend pleasant evening chatting, eating and drinking and turn at 11; late for me on this trip.
Mon 29
Pleasant day in Bayeaux looking at Tapestry exhibition and Battle of Normandy Museum. As cooking dinner my back went; just what i'd been dreading. Changed bike seating position to take strain off back. Borrowed campsite book of Patricia and Ionie who then suggested I keep it as they were on their way back.
Tue 30
Fitful night with bad back, took ages getting dressed and out of tent. Need to move on as campsite closing. Persistent rain and wind as head off to look at coastal gun batteries. Nearest open campsite was Carentan and headwind very strong, at one stage was having to pedal down hill, so took it easy and eventualy arrived 6:30; A wet, windy, uncomfortable day I must remember to forget.
Weds 1st Oct
Very strong winds rattle tent around during night, quite disconcerting. Luckier than german lad who had his tent pegs ripped out in middle of night. he managed to rescue tent before it blew away though. Decide to have rest day and stroll round Carentan.
Meet couple of canadian cycle tourists. they have sold their house and business and are now touring round: they spent last 3 months touring British Isles.
Thurs 2
Chilly night. Set of SW. Wind picks up and hail forces rapid retreat to cover. Weather changing rapidly with periods of wind, hail, rain and sun; another nasty ride. Meet canadian couple again; Jim and Marsha, find we're headed to same campsite. With it being the end of the season routes are basically determined by whatever campsites are still open. Camp at Donville les Bains and take stroll into nearby Granville. An old twisty hill place where I got lost and had to ask for directions.
Fri 3
Horrific winds and rain threaten tent so pack everything away just in case tent rips or pegs pull out; Apparently going to be like it all day so not sure quite what to do yet
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