You CAN cycle to Algeciras

Sat 6th dec
Girl in reception says its rainy for next few days so get washing done and tumble dried whilst having breakfast. Try using camp wi-fi at 10 euros for 24 hrs but my PDA doesn't seem to want to play so get money back. Sun breaks through so walk into El Rocio. What an intriquing place. Sand roads and whitewashed houses with hitching posts outside just like in the spagetti westerns. Quite a few folk trotting round on horses or horse drawn open carriage. Very lively atmosphere with groups of folk singing on the sidewalks accompanied usually by a drum and occasionally a guitar. Shops selling flamenco gear and leather boots etc. Place seems to be popular with Spanish as well as foreign tourist. From what i can gather the place is famous for some saint or virgin or somesuch. As it's a saturday its busy, I should imagine it's chaos in high season. Find free unsecured wi-fi so update blog. Stroll back to camp and have beer whilst writing up journal.

Sun 7th dec
Overcast with light showers as I set out for Seville. Fairly easy ride but gets hilly nearer Seville. Usual difficulties getting in with limited info as have to stick to signposted routes which are usually main roads. Hair raising moment crossing over 3 lanes of traffic to get onto correct slip road. Get to centre which is busy and quite attractive. Find tourist info but it was closed. I was 10 mins too late. I'd managed to get plan of centre from a garage so worked my way through old part, past the bull ring and various other historic things, to the other side then to road that I thought campsite might be on. Ask a couple of police who tell me i'm on right road but they weren't sure how far it was. Travel a bit further and ask girl; "straight on and you'll see a sign". Travel further, no sign. I'm now out past the airport so I know i've gone too far. Call in garage who tell me its closed down despite the fact its shown on the map I got from tourist info in Huelva. Brilliant. Ask about nearby hostels or hotels. No joy. Best bet they tell me is to head back into Seville and follow signs to Malaga. Back I go after taking detour to get to other side of Autovia, which is a bit like a motorway. First hotel I find is 4 star; would prefer something cheaper. Ask some chaps nearby. One says he's seen sign for 45 euros nearer centre. Off I go along autovia towards centre. Get a puncture and bike begins to wobble all over the place. Due to crash barriers only place I can find is a little glass and litter strewn triangle between autovia and slip road. Pull onto it, dismantle luggage and start changing inner tube. Its getting dark, its raining and cars are hooting as they pass by either side. Fortunately the cause of the puncture was obvious as I had to pul it out of the tyre with pliers. Finally get it done and set off again. Find hotel advertising 45 euros and pull in. Reception says it'll be 87 euros. Apparently 45 euros is only on special days and today's not one. Ah well, i'm exhausted, wet and grubby, at least I can have a bath, watch telly and cut toenails, which are in danger of snagging the front wheel spokes.

Mon 8th
Breakfast on bacon, eggs, croissants and coffee before setting off for the station, which is fairly close. I had thought about finding cheaper accommodation and spending a day exploring Seville but its grey and raining and I can't be bothered. Get ticket to Cadiz and look round shops till train departs at 11:00. Not a bad journey as train travels over plain south of Seville before passing through Jerez and by Harveys (of Bristol Cream fame).
Arrive in Cadiz about 13:00 and set off to tourist info. Tell them I want to cycle to Algeciras and would like campsite info and a good map. Much shaking of heads. "You can't cycle to Algeciras, there's only two roads and it's too mountainous" she says. (One of the roads goes inland with no campsites so that only leaves the other road). Eventually get a photocopied sheet of campsites in Cadiz region with opening times and a map which is next to useless. Checking campsites I find only half are open all year which is a bit different to most of them as I was told in Huelva. Pick one and then find way out of Cadiz on A48. Very busy but nice wide hard shoulder to cycle on so not too bad and make good time. Branch off onto N430 and get to chosen campsite. Looks ok, new toilet block and lush grass to camp on instead of the usual damp sand. Looks like they've had a lot of rain as quite a few pitches are flooded. Thought afterwards that I rather rushed through Cadiz, but all these places are beginning to look the same now. Also the campsite directions i've got are very basic such as 'Ctra Puerto Pesquero, km 2' which basically means 2km down the road to Puerto Pesquero. That would be ok if Puerto Pesquero was on my map but its too insignificant for michelin to mark on, so I like to allow plenty of time to find these places.

Tues 9th dec
Well, nice campsite but unbelievable noise in evening. Since entering Iberia the constant barking of dogs in the evening is so common a quiet night merits a note in my journal. This was in a different league though. First the dogs started, setting off cockerels, then donkeys, cows and what I think were pigs. You could hear the noise radiate out as they set each other off. Then they'd start again, what a racket. I've got earplugs but they're not comfortable to sleep in. Same thing happened this morning.
Didn't fancy spending another night with that noise so decided to head south 20k to Veje; that would make a fairly easy run to Tarifa. Starting to get hilly now with mountains up ahead; quite dramatic with their cloud covered peaks. Site at Vejer seems very isolated. As I get near I ask bloke if its open, he replies in perfect English that he doesn't know but those at Tarifa are and I would have the wind behind me today. Follow his advice and set off on the 40k to next potential site. Halfway there I pass through a wide valley that is littered with wind turbines, probably 100 or so. This place obviously channels the wind so very glad it is behind me. Very black and threatening rain as reach site. Pitch in sheltered spot as wind really picks up and temperature drops.

Weds 10th dec
Wind really howled through the treetops and very cold last night but no dogs to disturb sleep. Looks like being a nice day today though. Get a bit off handwashing done and hung out to dry then cycle the 11k into Tarifa. Route very scenic and lined with kite surf schools nearer the town. Tarifa quite busy and full of surf shops; enough for one shop to proudly proclaim 'this is NOT a surf shop'. Very tip of Tarifa is a military zone so couldn't go there, and castle was closed but still pleasant wandering round and looking at the cloud covered moroccan mountains in the distance.
Cycle back against brisk wind and continue past camp to beach. Car park here has quite a few campervans parked, ranging from retired couples with posh jobs to young dudes with radical haircuts and beat up old vans with surfboards. Although sunny it wasn't warm enough to sunbathe. Back to camp and put bedding out to air at last. Hijack veranda, table and chair of nearby empty cabin and sit in sun to have lunch. Nice to sit on chair instead of hunched in tent for a change. Clean and dry various other bits of kit (damp sand gets everywhere). Bike is absolutely filthy so clean that down best as I can then oil gears and chain. Finally, repair puncture I got in Seville. Boring stuff I know but life on the road is not all glamour and excitement you know. All in all a relaxing day which is just what I wanted as next stage looks as though it might be hard work judging from the map.

Thurs 11th Dec
No wind so the dogs decided to start again.
Back towards Tarifa then NE towards Algeciras. Long hard climb of 340 metres to Mirador El Estrecho but fabulous view from top. Stop for well deserved beer at café there. 2k decent then another slog up to 320 metres then long descent towards Algeciras. Good views of Gibraltar but very built up. Entering Algeciras is an unpleasant business with all the traffic and dust. Road turns into autovia and life becomes very unpleasant. Traffic roaring by at 100kph - 120kph and sometimes no hard shoulder to ride on. Came upon same situation as in Seville, three lanes of traffic and I need the left hand lane so have to cut across two lanes with cars and lorries thundering along either side of me. I cycle on hoping they're paying attention. Frightening. Things eventually quieten down a little past San Roque and eventually I pull off on side road to campsite. Bit of a grim campsite though, charge me 20 euros for one night; last site was 15 euros for 2 nights. First time i've been charged for having a bicycle.
A lovely morning but dreadful afternoon.
So despite what tourist info said in Cadiz, you can cycle to Algeciras, it's occasionally tough, unpleasant going, but there's some really nice scenery on the way. On the whole though I really wouldn't recommend it.

Fri 12th Dec
V cold night, took a while to get warm. Large campsite but virtually deserted, lots of empty caravans. Raining in morning but I had pitched under an existing canopy so tent stayed dry. Rain stops so set off along autovia then onto A7 into Estepona. A7 follows coast so pleasant if busy road and I pul off whenever I can to look at the views. Lots of shops with English names along the way. Saw english bookshop but it was on other side of autovia with no crossing for quite a way. Tourist office map shows campsite just before Estepona but no sign of it. Ask girl, she doesn't know but rings friend, friend not there so still don't know. Travel a bit further and see tourist info, call in and get directions, its 8k beyond town. Again the maps I have prove innaccurate. Get list of other sites in region which will last me up to Malaga. Back onto autovia and to site. Very pleasant receptionist tells me I can stop in this empty caravan for same price as camping. Take a look but it's dirty, damp and it smells, same as my tent really but at least I know where that's been. Decline offer and pitch up.

Sat 13th Dec
Weather looking a bit grim this morning so decided to stop extra day and explore Estepona. I have a map of the town from tourist office which shows a tourist trail. Cycle 7k to centre and walk round trail. Very little left of old town as its been absorbed by newer developments. Bit of a castle wall and a minaret that is now a clock tower. Town itself was quite nice with a main square and central fountain surrounded by orange trees still with fruit. Promenade along front very tropical with palms and wooden bar and restaurant shacks on the beach.
Looks like rain coming in from mountains so head back. Just make it back to tent as it starts. Soon turns into torrential downpour. I'd borrowed paperback novel from reception so started reading. Noticed puddles start to form around tent then a puddle forming in the tent. I'd patched up the holes from the exploding stove incident but seems i'd aquired a few other small holes in the groundsheet. Mop up water and shove bits of folded cardboard under groundsheet to raise holes above ground level. The ground is now sodden and the sand is becoming very soft and squishy. Wind is now starting to pull tent pegs from soft ground. Prepare everything for quick exit in case conditions worsen then doze fully clothed for a while. Rain finally stops at 1 in the morning; pay much needed visit to toilet block, brew first cup of tea since getting back, refix loose tent pegs then cover wet area of groundsheet with carrier bags so sleeping bag doesn't get wet and grab some sleep.

Sun 14th Dec
Ground sheet under foam sleeping mat was sodden but everything else dry. Exterior of tent and all gear in vestibule covered in sandy mud so decide to pack up as I clean up and move on.
Back onto autovia then through centre of Marbella where a road race is causing diversions and hold ups. Out of centre and back onto autovia to Puerto Cabopino for campsite. Very busy site and obviously popular; two restaurants, daily activities and what have you. Sun starts to break through cloud so pitch up and put wet kit out to dry. Take stroll down to beach where windsurfers are having fun with brisk wind, leaping into air off wave tops. Puerto Cabopino itself looks very nice tucked between autovia and beach. Rain coming in again so head back. Starts raining 16:30 but next few days supposed to be fine. Get early night to catch up on sleep.

Mon 15th Dec
Looks like a sunny day but for several days now there has been a bitterly cold northerly wind. Chatting with regular visitors to these parts it seems i've picked a particularly bad year to come. Most say they have never known it to be so cold and wet. As one chap said "we were on the beach sunbathing this time last year". Now the beaches are deserted. Still, probably not as bad as UK.
Set off along autovia to Fuengirola. Wind strong and blustery and have struggle sometimes to avoid being blown into crash barriers on one side and traffic on other; not nice. Things improve as I get off autovia and onto N340 through Fuengirola and along coast to Torremolinos. Actually have time and space now to stop and look at views. This bit of coast is like one stretched out city of shops, apartments and hotels but the coastline when you can see it is attractive. Find tourist office in Torremolinos and enquire about campsite. Its on the east side so take leisurely ride along seafront and then inland a bit. Quite a small site surrounded by apartments and fairly basic. Camping in this part of Spain is quite expensive for what you get at 15-20 euros for a night. This is also where my current campsite info runs out so i'm hoping I can get details for next leg from Malaga.

Tue 16th Dec
Chatting about weather to a couple on the site it seems a depression over northern Europe is causing the unusually bad weather. However they say it will have moved on by Thursday and normal weather will resume shortly after.
Back onto autovia then into Malaga. Very large cruise ship in port. Wend my way into centre and the big brown bruiser of a cathedral. Through tiny alleys to a wide pedestrianised avenue of shops. At intervals are restored vintage automobile engines displayed like works of art in glass cases on pedestals. Call in tourist office where they tell me to bring bicycle in as well due to amount of theft in the area. They haven't anything useful so go to bookshop and with some trepidation leave bike outside. Finally find one copy of Spanish campsites guide and at 10 euros not bad. Slowly head out of city at same time as the cruise ship leaves port and I watch it disappear over the horizon as I head east along coast. I was pleasantly suprised by Malaga, it had more style than I imagined.
Most of this stretch I can now use the N340 which, although a main road, is much more relaxing and allows me to stop and admire the scenery. Also see many of the beacon towers which line this coast. Although it is almost a continuous urban development along here there are nice views of coast and snow capped mountains every so often. Press on to Torrox Costa where i'd been told there was a site by a chap in Torremolinos. Its up very steep short hill that forces me to get off and walk for first time since England. Wind picks up whilst having dinnerin evening and soon turns really furious. I'm in fairly sheltered spot so only get rattled round a little. Some caravans get their awnings ripped away. Goes on till midnight and it's difficult to sleep with the noise.

Weds 17th Dec
Looks like sunny day so decide to stop in Torrox Costa. The bike fell over in Malaga damaging centre rack so I repair that and get usual chores done like washing clothes etc. Can also plan the next few stages of trip now I have the info. The days rest will be useful as, by the look of the map, the next stage will be tough going.

Tooth trouble

Weds 26th nov
A filling came out a couple of days ago so decided last night that this may be the place to get it fixed; touristy with lots of brits, fairly large and only 20 mins walk to centre from campsite. Ask at campsite reception and they direct me to the central clinic. Walk down into town, find clinic and explain what's happened. Within 20 mins i'm in the chair. No messing with anasthetics, straight in with drill and scrapers. Turns out to be quite a large cavity but 10 - 15 mins later all done with very little discomfort. All the while they addressed me as Meesta Feelip. Brilliant. Go to pay the 60 euro fee but they won't accept debit card; leave passport as security, find ATM and go back to pay in cash. Worth it rather than risk toothache in some out of the way place.
Take walk round Quarteira and find second hand bookshop with books in many languages. Looked at buying english language novel before but they cost 9-10 euros new and as I can read a novel in an evening or 2 it would be expensive. These were 3 euros plus you got 50% back if you returned it.
Very cold evening so early to bed and read.

Thurs 27th nov
Finished novel by 21:30; Trading Reality by Michael Ridpath. Not bad but weak contrived ending. Very cold night, normally unzip sleeping bag and use more like a quilt but full on bag treatment last night. Decide to carry on East so take book back and exchange for another. Back to pack and off we go.
Horrible journey. Very busy road with lorries passing too close for comfort. Not sure if rude gestures are the same in Portugal but used them frequently today. Grotty urbanization along most of route.
Reached Olhao and made for campsite on Eastern edge. Pitched up and had look round. Best on-site supermarket i've ever seen, good range of stuff and open all day. Treat myself to bottle of Super Bock, as not had a beer for a while, and buy fresh bread, pate and salad for tea.

Fri 28th nov
Railway runs right alongside campsite. Trains go thundering by but either they stopped at night or I slept through it. Cloudy day with light showers so lazed around. Took quick stroll into Olhao outskirts but not very pleasant; tower blocks and graffiti.

Sat 29th nov
Very windy night and torrential rain last night. Dozed in clothes whilst waiting for chance to dash to shower block. In morning found bike blown over and water channel formed in the sand that just missed the tent.
Another bad weather day so take opportunity to reorganize panniers to try and make more room. Stripped out redundant pages in road atlas and campsite book.

Sun 30th nov
Weather uncertain, not sure whether to move on or not.
Walked into centre of Olhao, bit better than outskiirts. Narrow cobbled streets and quite busy. Wanted to find bookshop but no luck. Plenty of chinese bazaars which are really common along this coast. Bought cheap radio to keep me amused in evenings.

Mon 1st dec.
Weather better so pack up, which takes ages because of all the damp sand on everything. Set off for Monte Gordo. Sunny day but cold wind almost needing winter gloves. Arrive and pitch up then walk into centre. Quite a few shops but none of real interest, more of a permanent market. Christmas decorations are up and christmas carols played with synthesised pan pipes come from speakers around the town.
Back at campsite I notice people have dug trenches around their pitches so water runoff looks to be a problem. Starts to rain in evening but not enough to worry about.

Tues 2nd dec
Time to head into Spain. Catch ferry from Vila Real de St. Antonio. Nice trip across Rio Guadiana to Ayemonte. Centre of Ayemonte really bustling and attractive but no book shops. I really need more info on campsites in spain and ideally a better map than my 1cm=4km road atlas. Head for Isla Christina as map show campsite there. Find it ok and its open. Pitch up and explore Isla Christina, not very nice, cheap bazaars again many of which were closed.

Weds 3rd dec.
Try to plan next stage. I know the site at Punta Umbria is open but would prefer a site nearer Seville. Two are shown on road atlas but not sure if they are open. Plan a loop to each site and set off. Well, best laid plans and all that. One site didn't exist, other site was closed. Weather miserable, arrive at Aljeraque, follow signs to Punta Umbria and come to roundabout. The exit I want says no bike, pedestrians, tractors or livestock, it seems its been upgraded to motorway status since my map was produced. I can see a cycle track on other side but can't work out to get there. Follow possible alternative but that ends at industrial estate. Ask someone. They tell me the only way is to cross the bridge, which is in fact the slip road coming off the main road. Wait until no oncoming traffic then rush down slip road. Steep banks down either side but find lowest spot. Hoist loaded bike over crash barriers, down sand and gravel bank and across ditch to cycle track. Judging by all the tyre marks i'm not the only one who's had to do this. The track runs from Huelva to Punta Umbria but without access from Aljeraque which is about half way between the two. Cycle into Punta Umbria but can't find site. Ask chap and he tells me it's 10k back roughly the way i've come. Cycle back and eventually find it. I had passed within 1k of it when I came off cycle track but there were not any signs so I missed it. Campsite is dead and i've not had chance to get food, visit café but i'm the only one there. Cup of coffee with crisps and nuts will have to do. Starts raining again. What a day.

Thurs 4th dec
Dull, cloudy day but rising sun catching clouds quite nice. Take cycle track back towards Aljeraque and on to Huelva. Make way to centre and to tourist info according to basic town plan in road atlas. Wrong place but they direct me to right one. They have basic map of Andalucia with actual position of campsites marked on which is more useful than current map but no opening times; bloke tells me most of them are open all year. Find bookshop but nothing of interest there. Decide to cycle on to Mazagon as there is a site there. Very busy road with heavy industry and refineries ning the route. Eventually turns into nature reserve before getting to Mazagon. Campsite virtually empty and pretty basic, only other people I see are those who work there. Spend evening trying to sort out next stage of journey based on new campsite info.

Fri 5th dec
Well, three months now since I set out. Check with reception whether campsite at El Rocio is open. I think he said yes. Head off along long flat road towards Matalascanas then North East to El Rocio. 40 odd kilometres of flat sandy plain with pine trees later I arrive. Looks fairly interesting. Find campsite which looks good. Might stay a day to rest and do washing etc before making fairly long ride into Seville .