You CAN cycle to Algeciras

Sat 6th dec
Girl in reception says its rainy for next few days so get washing done and tumble dried whilst having breakfast. Try using camp wi-fi at 10 euros for 24 hrs but my PDA doesn't seem to want to play so get money back. Sun breaks through so walk into El Rocio. What an intriquing place. Sand roads and whitewashed houses with hitching posts outside just like in the spagetti westerns. Quite a few folk trotting round on horses or horse drawn open carriage. Very lively atmosphere with groups of folk singing on the sidewalks accompanied usually by a drum and occasionally a guitar. Shops selling flamenco gear and leather boots etc. Place seems to be popular with Spanish as well as foreign tourist. From what i can gather the place is famous for some saint or virgin or somesuch. As it's a saturday its busy, I should imagine it's chaos in high season. Find free unsecured wi-fi so update blog. Stroll back to camp and have beer whilst writing up journal.

Sun 7th dec
Overcast with light showers as I set out for Seville. Fairly easy ride but gets hilly nearer Seville. Usual difficulties getting in with limited info as have to stick to signposted routes which are usually main roads. Hair raising moment crossing over 3 lanes of traffic to get onto correct slip road. Get to centre which is busy and quite attractive. Find tourist info but it was closed. I was 10 mins too late. I'd managed to get plan of centre from a garage so worked my way through old part, past the bull ring and various other historic things, to the other side then to road that I thought campsite might be on. Ask a couple of police who tell me i'm on right road but they weren't sure how far it was. Travel a bit further and ask girl; "straight on and you'll see a sign". Travel further, no sign. I'm now out past the airport so I know i've gone too far. Call in garage who tell me its closed down despite the fact its shown on the map I got from tourist info in Huelva. Brilliant. Ask about nearby hostels or hotels. No joy. Best bet they tell me is to head back into Seville and follow signs to Malaga. Back I go after taking detour to get to other side of Autovia, which is a bit like a motorway. First hotel I find is 4 star; would prefer something cheaper. Ask some chaps nearby. One says he's seen sign for 45 euros nearer centre. Off I go along autovia towards centre. Get a puncture and bike begins to wobble all over the place. Due to crash barriers only place I can find is a little glass and litter strewn triangle between autovia and slip road. Pull onto it, dismantle luggage and start changing inner tube. Its getting dark, its raining and cars are hooting as they pass by either side. Fortunately the cause of the puncture was obvious as I had to pul it out of the tyre with pliers. Finally get it done and set off again. Find hotel advertising 45 euros and pull in. Reception says it'll be 87 euros. Apparently 45 euros is only on special days and today's not one. Ah well, i'm exhausted, wet and grubby, at least I can have a bath, watch telly and cut toenails, which are in danger of snagging the front wheel spokes.

Mon 8th
Breakfast on bacon, eggs, croissants and coffee before setting off for the station, which is fairly close. I had thought about finding cheaper accommodation and spending a day exploring Seville but its grey and raining and I can't be bothered. Get ticket to Cadiz and look round shops till train departs at 11:00. Not a bad journey as train travels over plain south of Seville before passing through Jerez and by Harveys (of Bristol Cream fame).
Arrive in Cadiz about 13:00 and set off to tourist info. Tell them I want to cycle to Algeciras and would like campsite info and a good map. Much shaking of heads. "You can't cycle to Algeciras, there's only two roads and it's too mountainous" she says. (One of the roads goes inland with no campsites so that only leaves the other road). Eventually get a photocopied sheet of campsites in Cadiz region with opening times and a map which is next to useless. Checking campsites I find only half are open all year which is a bit different to most of them as I was told in Huelva. Pick one and then find way out of Cadiz on A48. Very busy but nice wide hard shoulder to cycle on so not too bad and make good time. Branch off onto N430 and get to chosen campsite. Looks ok, new toilet block and lush grass to camp on instead of the usual damp sand. Looks like they've had a lot of rain as quite a few pitches are flooded. Thought afterwards that I rather rushed through Cadiz, but all these places are beginning to look the same now. Also the campsite directions i've got are very basic such as 'Ctra Puerto Pesquero, km 2' which basically means 2km down the road to Puerto Pesquero. That would be ok if Puerto Pesquero was on my map but its too insignificant for michelin to mark on, so I like to allow plenty of time to find these places.

Tues 9th dec
Well, nice campsite but unbelievable noise in evening. Since entering Iberia the constant barking of dogs in the evening is so common a quiet night merits a note in my journal. This was in a different league though. First the dogs started, setting off cockerels, then donkeys, cows and what I think were pigs. You could hear the noise radiate out as they set each other off. Then they'd start again, what a racket. I've got earplugs but they're not comfortable to sleep in. Same thing happened this morning.
Didn't fancy spending another night with that noise so decided to head south 20k to Veje; that would make a fairly easy run to Tarifa. Starting to get hilly now with mountains up ahead; quite dramatic with their cloud covered peaks. Site at Vejer seems very isolated. As I get near I ask bloke if its open, he replies in perfect English that he doesn't know but those at Tarifa are and I would have the wind behind me today. Follow his advice and set off on the 40k to next potential site. Halfway there I pass through a wide valley that is littered with wind turbines, probably 100 or so. This place obviously channels the wind so very glad it is behind me. Very black and threatening rain as reach site. Pitch in sheltered spot as wind really picks up and temperature drops.

Weds 10th dec
Wind really howled through the treetops and very cold last night but no dogs to disturb sleep. Looks like being a nice day today though. Get a bit off handwashing done and hung out to dry then cycle the 11k into Tarifa. Route very scenic and lined with kite surf schools nearer the town. Tarifa quite busy and full of surf shops; enough for one shop to proudly proclaim 'this is NOT a surf shop'. Very tip of Tarifa is a military zone so couldn't go there, and castle was closed but still pleasant wandering round and looking at the cloud covered moroccan mountains in the distance.
Cycle back against brisk wind and continue past camp to beach. Car park here has quite a few campervans parked, ranging from retired couples with posh jobs to young dudes with radical haircuts and beat up old vans with surfboards. Although sunny it wasn't warm enough to sunbathe. Back to camp and put bedding out to air at last. Hijack veranda, table and chair of nearby empty cabin and sit in sun to have lunch. Nice to sit on chair instead of hunched in tent for a change. Clean and dry various other bits of kit (damp sand gets everywhere). Bike is absolutely filthy so clean that down best as I can then oil gears and chain. Finally, repair puncture I got in Seville. Boring stuff I know but life on the road is not all glamour and excitement you know. All in all a relaxing day which is just what I wanted as next stage looks as though it might be hard work judging from the map.

Thurs 11th Dec
No wind so the dogs decided to start again.
Back towards Tarifa then NE towards Algeciras. Long hard climb of 340 metres to Mirador El Estrecho but fabulous view from top. Stop for well deserved beer at café there. 2k decent then another slog up to 320 metres then long descent towards Algeciras. Good views of Gibraltar but very built up. Entering Algeciras is an unpleasant business with all the traffic and dust. Road turns into autovia and life becomes very unpleasant. Traffic roaring by at 100kph - 120kph and sometimes no hard shoulder to ride on. Came upon same situation as in Seville, three lanes of traffic and I need the left hand lane so have to cut across two lanes with cars and lorries thundering along either side of me. I cycle on hoping they're paying attention. Frightening. Things eventually quieten down a little past San Roque and eventually I pull off on side road to campsite. Bit of a grim campsite though, charge me 20 euros for one night; last site was 15 euros for 2 nights. First time i've been charged for having a bicycle.
A lovely morning but dreadful afternoon.
So despite what tourist info said in Cadiz, you can cycle to Algeciras, it's occasionally tough, unpleasant going, but there's some really nice scenery on the way. On the whole though I really wouldn't recommend it.

Fri 12th Dec
V cold night, took a while to get warm. Large campsite but virtually deserted, lots of empty caravans. Raining in morning but I had pitched under an existing canopy so tent stayed dry. Rain stops so set off along autovia then onto A7 into Estepona. A7 follows coast so pleasant if busy road and I pul off whenever I can to look at the views. Lots of shops with English names along the way. Saw english bookshop but it was on other side of autovia with no crossing for quite a way. Tourist office map shows campsite just before Estepona but no sign of it. Ask girl, she doesn't know but rings friend, friend not there so still don't know. Travel a bit further and see tourist info, call in and get directions, its 8k beyond town. Again the maps I have prove innaccurate. Get list of other sites in region which will last me up to Malaga. Back onto autovia and to site. Very pleasant receptionist tells me I can stop in this empty caravan for same price as camping. Take a look but it's dirty, damp and it smells, same as my tent really but at least I know where that's been. Decline offer and pitch up.

Sat 13th Dec
Weather looking a bit grim this morning so decided to stop extra day and explore Estepona. I have a map of the town from tourist office which shows a tourist trail. Cycle 7k to centre and walk round trail. Very little left of old town as its been absorbed by newer developments. Bit of a castle wall and a minaret that is now a clock tower. Town itself was quite nice with a main square and central fountain surrounded by orange trees still with fruit. Promenade along front very tropical with palms and wooden bar and restaurant shacks on the beach.
Looks like rain coming in from mountains so head back. Just make it back to tent as it starts. Soon turns into torrential downpour. I'd borrowed paperback novel from reception so started reading. Noticed puddles start to form around tent then a puddle forming in the tent. I'd patched up the holes from the exploding stove incident but seems i'd aquired a few other small holes in the groundsheet. Mop up water and shove bits of folded cardboard under groundsheet to raise holes above ground level. The ground is now sodden and the sand is becoming very soft and squishy. Wind is now starting to pull tent pegs from soft ground. Prepare everything for quick exit in case conditions worsen then doze fully clothed for a while. Rain finally stops at 1 in the morning; pay much needed visit to toilet block, brew first cup of tea since getting back, refix loose tent pegs then cover wet area of groundsheet with carrier bags so sleeping bag doesn't get wet and grab some sleep.

Sun 14th Dec
Ground sheet under foam sleeping mat was sodden but everything else dry. Exterior of tent and all gear in vestibule covered in sandy mud so decide to pack up as I clean up and move on.
Back onto autovia then through centre of Marbella where a road race is causing diversions and hold ups. Out of centre and back onto autovia to Puerto Cabopino for campsite. Very busy site and obviously popular; two restaurants, daily activities and what have you. Sun starts to break through cloud so pitch up and put wet kit out to dry. Take stroll down to beach where windsurfers are having fun with brisk wind, leaping into air off wave tops. Puerto Cabopino itself looks very nice tucked between autovia and beach. Rain coming in again so head back. Starts raining 16:30 but next few days supposed to be fine. Get early night to catch up on sleep.

Mon 15th Dec
Looks like a sunny day but for several days now there has been a bitterly cold northerly wind. Chatting with regular visitors to these parts it seems i've picked a particularly bad year to come. Most say they have never known it to be so cold and wet. As one chap said "we were on the beach sunbathing this time last year". Now the beaches are deserted. Still, probably not as bad as UK.
Set off along autovia to Fuengirola. Wind strong and blustery and have struggle sometimes to avoid being blown into crash barriers on one side and traffic on other; not nice. Things improve as I get off autovia and onto N340 through Fuengirola and along coast to Torremolinos. Actually have time and space now to stop and look at views. This bit of coast is like one stretched out city of shops, apartments and hotels but the coastline when you can see it is attractive. Find tourist office in Torremolinos and enquire about campsite. Its on the east side so take leisurely ride along seafront and then inland a bit. Quite a small site surrounded by apartments and fairly basic. Camping in this part of Spain is quite expensive for what you get at 15-20 euros for a night. This is also where my current campsite info runs out so i'm hoping I can get details for next leg from Malaga.

Tue 16th Dec
Chatting about weather to a couple on the site it seems a depression over northern Europe is causing the unusually bad weather. However they say it will have moved on by Thursday and normal weather will resume shortly after.
Back onto autovia then into Malaga. Very large cruise ship in port. Wend my way into centre and the big brown bruiser of a cathedral. Through tiny alleys to a wide pedestrianised avenue of shops. At intervals are restored vintage automobile engines displayed like works of art in glass cases on pedestals. Call in tourist office where they tell me to bring bicycle in as well due to amount of theft in the area. They haven't anything useful so go to bookshop and with some trepidation leave bike outside. Finally find one copy of Spanish campsites guide and at 10 euros not bad. Slowly head out of city at same time as the cruise ship leaves port and I watch it disappear over the horizon as I head east along coast. I was pleasantly suprised by Malaga, it had more style than I imagined.
Most of this stretch I can now use the N340 which, although a main road, is much more relaxing and allows me to stop and admire the scenery. Also see many of the beacon towers which line this coast. Although it is almost a continuous urban development along here there are nice views of coast and snow capped mountains every so often. Press on to Torrox Costa where i'd been told there was a site by a chap in Torremolinos. Its up very steep short hill that forces me to get off and walk for first time since England. Wind picks up whilst having dinnerin evening and soon turns really furious. I'm in fairly sheltered spot so only get rattled round a little. Some caravans get their awnings ripped away. Goes on till midnight and it's difficult to sleep with the noise.

Weds 17th Dec
Looks like sunny day so decide to stop in Torrox Costa. The bike fell over in Malaga damaging centre rack so I repair that and get usual chores done like washing clothes etc. Can also plan the next few stages of trip now I have the info. The days rest will be useful as, by the look of the map, the next stage will be tough going.