Lovely sunny day. Pack up and pay, 5 euros, cheapest site i've had in
spain. Leave guidebook at reception and clip last remaining page from
road atlas to bike. The route looks like something the map maker has
scribbled out rather than a road, it should be interesting. Not been
going long when notice what looked like a map by the roadside. Stop
and go back to look. It's a virtually brand new road map of France,
just what I need for general route planning. Long hard climbs and
descents with barely a straight bit of road anywhere. Fantastic views
of mountains and coast. Final climb up to the Col de Belitres at 165m
and i'm at the border. More twisty hilly roads follow. 36km of road to
travel 16km as crow flies. After a long slog out of Banyuls sur Mer I
stop to admire the views. A frenchman strolls over for a chat then
walks back to his car and returns with two large cans of beer. Shortly
after a frenchwoman rolls up accompanied by a Syrian calligrapher.
Spend the next hour drinking beer and chatting in Franglais. Long,
fast (and slightly unsteady) descent into Argeles-Plage to find
tourist info and enquire about campsites. Plenty of them but only two
open this time of year. First one I try is just closing due to
sanitation problems so have to cycle inland to the other site. Hard
work but another excellent day.
Weds 11th mar
Strong winds blew up during the night and i'd left my earplugs in the
panniers. 02:30 I give in, put on some clothes and get them. Wind
seems to settle down in morning so head north. Once on coast road wind
picks up. Head down and bottom gear again. Its difficult to keep bike
on the road. Stop to buy guidebook and more detailed map of region
then carry on. Notice sign for municipal campsite at Ste Marie-Plage,
it's not in my guidebook but i've had enough so take a gamble.
Fortunately it opened a few days ago. Spend afternoon planning journey
through France, many sites not open until April but should be OK. Wind
persists into the night. I wonder if this is the Mistral i'd been
warned about.
Thur 12th mar
Nice day so decide to chill out. Stroll into Ste Marie Plage but most
places are closed and many shops are empty. Walk into Ste Marie
village a few km away, typical small french village, quite attractive
but little life.
Fri 13th mar
Quite a nice site and i've a pleasant pitch so decide to stay a few days.
Follow cycle route into Perpignan, about 13k. Not a particularly
attractive place, a bit scrappy I thought, but nice model of how it
was centuries ago.
Sat 14th mar
Try walking into next town, Canet Plage. Get totally lost trying to
follow footpaths. Give up and eventually find my way back.
Sun 15th mar
Cycle into Canet-Plage instead. Spend much of the day there as it's
much livelier than Ste Marie. Get slow puncture on way back.
Mon 16th mar
Cycle back into Canet Plage to explore it a little more then head back
and give bike quick overhaul ready for next leg.
Tue 17th mar
Follow minor coast road north to Port Leucate then major road to
detour around a large lake before minor roads into Port la Nouvelle.
Pick up cycle track that goes between 2 large lakes, a bit rough but
worth it for the peace, quiet and scenery. Arrive at campsite at La
Nautique, just S of Narbonne, each pitch has its own posh shower, loo
and washbasin, very nice.
wed 18th mar
Cycle into Narbonne for a look round. Not a lot to say about it
really, a french city.
Thur 19th mar
Steering seemed odd on bike yesterday and back brake hardly working so
try re-adjusting them. Steerings better but brake not much improved.
Good enough for a while though.
Fri 20th mar
Set off for Beziers. Only sensible option is main roads all the way.
Didn't see a great deal of city but seemed pleasant enough. Follow
canal du midi SE then tiny potholed country roads to campsite at Vias
Plage. Very dead place, hardly anyone there. Pitch so i'm sheltered
from wind that had picked up. Within a few hours wind had veered round
almost 180 degrees and grown very strong, really battering the tent
around, had to hold on to it. Quick pack and emergecy evacuation to
another pitch. I really am getting fed up of this wind.
Sat 21st mar
Wake up to cold drips of water on head. Inside of tent coated with ice
that's melting and dripping onto sleeping bag and me. Not a nice way
to wake up.
Long journey today to other side of Montpellier. Pleasant scenery,
mainly open fields, hills in distance, low rolling hills. Called in to
view Gallo-Roman villa near Loupian but it was shut. Montpellier nice
city, one of those vibrant places, seriously pedestrianised which
makes it nice to walk round. Due to one way system and no town plan it
took me a while to find way out. Don't think i'd have managed it
without my compass. Head to Castries. Castries supposed to have really
good chateau but it was covered in polythene for renovation so all I
saw was pointy tower tops, nice aquaduct though with old houses part
built into it. Find campsite just beyond Castries, some 15km NE of
Montpellier centre. Well out the way but fairly full with lots of
Nederlanders, some club I should think.
Sun 22nd mar
Apart from usual dogs barking during the night this is a pleasant and
peaceful woodland site. All the nederlanders disappear. Decide to stay
another night. Cycle the 1.5km into Castries to explore. Aquaduct more
impressive than first thought, official ranking jumps from nice to
very nice. Almost 7km long including underground channels, with a drop
of about 3m, it was built in 17th century to supply water to the
Marquis of Castries chateau gardens. All undergoing renovation at the
mo.
Castries itself very pleasant with tiny twisty alleys and interesting
old stone houses. Nice way to spend a sunny sunday morning.
Notice sign as entering campsite. Seems this area, Domaine de
Fondespierre, is a large recreation area. Various walks and picnic
areas, Its also the start of a 400km long mountain bike trail. Take an
afternoon walk along woodland footpaths back to aquaduct to take a few
snaps.
2 comments:
Picking stuff up at the roadside: just what are you thinking? I can't believe anybody does that nowadays. I know I never did unless it was to provoke laughter when my prize was a rusty nut or similar.
Pity your camphone or whatever you use has broken. Most of your pics have a colour problem...too much blue tint at the top of them. They should surely be more grey and white, with the added bonus of blurriness brought on by cold fingers and age? All my pics are like this, so why not yours? Hhmph! Please keep 'em coming though, as we all love a piccies of far-flung places and we're all lazy beggars at heart (replace vowels if needed). I said VOWELS. Just one question: exactly what is a Syrian calligrapher? Or is this a euphemism for something eerily sinister? For all I know it might be a Tierra Del Fuegan map maker or some such. Answers on a postcard please...
Your trip sounds getting better & better. I am keeping all your accounts as they give me a good idea - of places that are really good to visit round that whole coast. True you see it from the view of a bike and 20 mph, but the comments you make are hilarious, & quite revealing as how good comraderie is of travellers, everywhere. Good to note. I laughed a lot at some of the incidents you told us about. Always I am amazed at the technology too.. I loved seeing your pics. That one of the sunset seen from inside your 'home' made a big impression on me as to how wonderful simple camping can be.. sometimes!! I loved visiting France last year, and sounds like you are enjoying the cycle back. Patty cannot pick up your blogs as she is a bit lost on using her computer.. I tried to show her how when I was in SA. So I send on comments to her by email. I am planning a big van trip in June to Italy and back with another friend. We will be doing it the easy way, but you will be glad to hear that once again I will be in my Igloo tent next to it, giving my friend the Hilton Hotel comfort! So I am kind of camping.. Best regards, Oni.. (most amused also at some of your friends comments..)
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