As its so long since i thought i would let you see what a handsome chap I am.
Vercingetorix is the other bloke
Monday, 27 April 2009
over the hills
Sat 18th apr.
Take stroll into Beaune and around the city ramparts to the library.
Manage to tidy up the multiple posts that had occurred through intermittent wi-fi connection. Copied text from pda and pictures from camera using memory cards through USB. Just finished when librarian came along to tell me I wasn't allowed to use the USB port. Get lunch and just reach tent when heavens open again and cracking thunderstorm starts.
Take stroll into Beaune and around the city ramparts to the library.
Manage to tidy up the multiple posts that had occurred through intermittent wi-fi connection. Copied text from pda and pictures from camera using memory cards through USB. Just finished when librarian came along to tell me I wasn't allowed to use the USB port. Get lunch and just reach tent when heavens open again and cracking thunderstorm starts.
Sun 19th apr
Clear skies and sunshine as set out for Dijon. As it's sunday the main road is fairly quiet. Vineyards climb most of the way up the limestone hills to the left giving way to woodland on the hilltops. To the right a large flat plain with vineyards and occasionally other crops. At this time of the year the vines are just neat rows of short (30-40cm) stumps sticking out of the soil like withered limbs. Entry into Dijon is wonderfully easy with a bus/cycle lane most of the way to the centre. Head to Lac Kir and campsite on the western outskirts of the city, pitch and then take 25 minute walk into the city centre. Walking to the centre was also a pleasure as much of it was on a strip of parkland alongside the river Ouche. Get map and guidebook from tourist info and have brief look round. Enough here to keep me another day I think.
Mon 20th apr
Walk back into Dijon, past a house on fire, and visit the natural history museum. Interesting selection of exhibits but in particular the 50 million year old fossilised carapace, spiky tail and bones of a very large Glyptodon; an armadillo type creature. Apparently humans sheltered under the carapace for a time. Carry on with guidebook tour; lots of ornate maisons, mansions and other historic stuff. Wander round fine arts museum but didn't find much i liked, all a bit lifeless, also much of it was shut for reorganization. There were quite a few artists scattered about copying some of the works.
Archeology museum was also shut but can't complain as all the museums in Dijon are free to visit. All in all I spent 5 hours wandering round so head back for grub and rest feet. Not long back and rain and thunder make an appearance again. Good timing I think.
Tue 21st apr
Set out west along country roads by the river Ouche then along a cycle path beside the Canal de Bourgogne. It's a lovely sunny day, very peaceful and pleasant. Pick up main road towards Vitteaux and the wind picks up as well. Long gradual climb to Sobernon then down into valleyof river Brenne. Scenery has changed from vineyards to green grassy valleys dotted with white cows and wooded hilltops. Reach nice little campsite at Vitteaux with no campervans or caravans just four other tents. Weather forecast at reception says it is 20 kph winds from the north today I reckon they were stronger than that at times.
Some folk have asked whether I celebrated easter; of course, I had 'lapin saute aux 2 moutardes' for dinner. Quite appropriate I thought especially as one of the mustards was Dijon.
Wed 22nd apr
10kph headwinds forecast for today but i'm not going far; 20k to Venarey les Laumes. After a scenic and fairly quiet ride and a few photo stops I arrive and pitch up. Take unladen bike up very steep hills (3 arrows on map) through Alise Sainte Reine to top of Mt Auxois. On the western edge of the plateau is the 6.6 metre high statue of Vercingetorix on his 7 metre pedestal courtesy of Napoleon III. In the centre of the plateau is the gallo-roman remains of Alesia. The siege of Alesia and the surrender of Vercingetorix was the turning point in Julius Caesars conquest of Gaul in 52 BC. Having read about it some time ago it was nice to see the actual site and get an idea of the true scale of the siege. Move tent when I return to camp as unhappy with signs of mole activity nearby.
Thurs 23rd apr
Had long chat with Dave and Sylvia who I met briefly yesterday. Dave is one of the 'old school' cyclists; handmade traditional frame for his bike and their tandem, not a scrap of branded lycra to be seen. Interesting chap to talk to as he's done a lot of cycle touring as well as off road stuff in Scotland with the 'rough riders fellowship'. Set off fairly late, about 12, still, only 20k odd to do today. Head towards Montbard along the Brenne valley calling in on Fontenay Abbey on the way. Lovely 3k ride along the Fontenay valley as they've slapped a preservation order on it. Look round the abbey which is privately owned and slightly disappointing I thought. Although it is an attractive building in a wonderful setting the abbey at Villenueve les Avignon was more interesting to look round. As I was leaving I bumped into Dave and Sylvia who had just arrived after cycling alongside the canal de Bourgogne on their tandem. Carry on to Montbard and very nice campsite with free use of municipal indoor and outdoor pool, as it's a hot day both are busy.
Fri 24th apr
Ice inside and outside the tent this morning, consequently sleeping bag is wet where ice has melted and dripped. Nice sunny day so put everything out to dry. Set off 11ish to Chatillon sur Seine, long climb to top of plateau then rolling hills for next 25k or so. Again nice scenery with lush green fields, lots of woodland, occasional fields of rape and the sound of skylarks. Usual persistent headwind makes going harder than it should be but it keeps me cool. Very steep hill up to campsite at Chatillon where i'm told the museum is shut. This is a bit of a disappointment as I had wanted to see a few things there, in particular the 1.6 metre high bronze Vix vase. Pitch up and go for stroll to look round and find dinner. Nice evening so go for another stroll after dinner to take a few photos. Visit the source of the river Douix, one of the oldest known water shrines in Europe. Very atmospheric in the setting sun, I can see why it has held an attraction for so long. Climb steep zig zag path up cliff side behind the spring back to campsite.
Sat 25th apr
Winds flipped to south-westerly so rain on its way. Sure enough it starts about 9 and rains for most of the day. Strolled into town to visit municipal library, as I passed by the source of the Douix a group of divers were getting ready to continue tracing its underground path. Rather them than me. Municipal library was shut for alterations and can't find any other internet access in the town. Call in to see inside the 10th Century St. Vorles church near the campsite on way
back.
Sun 26th apr
Still raining in morning, pack up everything except tent and wait for a break. Chat with a scottish chap who arrived yesterday evening. He'd bought a Claud Butler touring bike for his retirement, flew to Nice and was cycling north to catch 'chunnel' home. As he was doing it to lose weight and get fit he was cycling 80 odd miles a day. First thing he commented on was the frustration of having to cycle against the Mistral. Rain eased about 11 so set off for Troyes, about 70k to the north west along the Seine valley. Raining as left Chatillon but stopped shortly after which was as well as I had puncture in rear tyre. Fix it and carry on. Although its a grey cloudy day the scenery's nice, limestone escarpments and rolling hills with wooded hilltops, flattening out as you get nearer Troyes. As it's Champagne country there's a few vineyards on the escarpment slopes. Apparently Renoir had his studio around here at Essoyes. Just reach campsite at Pont Ste. Marie, north east outskirts of Troyes, when heavens open again. Pitch tent in about 20 seconds, get cup of tea on the go and sit it out. Heavy rain all evening and into the night. Will probably stop here a day or two and explore Troyes then get to Chalons en Champagne for beginning of May.
Saturday, 18 April 2009
Along the Saone
Fri 10th apr
Make way into Lyon, find sign for centre and follow it. Suddenly find myself on fast three lane road with inches between a concrete wall on my right and traffic on my left. Judging by the hooting i'm not supposed to be here. Too late now, pedal like crazy trying to keep as close to wall as possible. Notice sign for centre pointing to slip road on left, no way am I going across there. Eventually find slip road on right and get to safety. Stop for a while and wait for trousers to stop smoking; amazing where reserves of energy come from at times like that. Find centre and get map of city. If you're into silk production or puppets this is the place to be; i'm not particularly so not much here I want to see. Stop for a while in the huge Place Bellecour, a sandy rectangle with nothing but a statue of Louis XIV in the centre and a football pitch marked on the floor. Follow banks of Saone then head NW until I find signs for Limonest and campsite at Dardilly where again they only have a price for two people. Lyon is supposed to be cycle friendly but as with most cities its Ok once you're in but getting in and out can be tricky without a map as all the signs assume you're in a car.
Sat 11th apr
Too expensive here so set off for Macon. Not a particularly interesting journey, mainly flat with fields and stuff; most of the villages looked a bit down at heel. Belleville was the exception, a very busy one way street lined with shops and parking spaces. Everybody was crawling along looking for the few empty spaces, took ages to get through even on a pushbike. Nice church as well. Macon has not changed much since I was here last, new commercial centre near campsite which is handy. Thunderstorm and showers in evening but otherwise weathers been cloudy but warm.
Sun 12th apr
Spend most of day wandering around Macon. Noticed a few things I hadn't seen before. Somebody had fun designing the post office, very flamboyant, possibly worth a photo. Interesting ruins, possibly an abbey, that I might look at again when the museum's open. Nice to see some of the things i'd seen before but forgotten about such as the Maison de Bois with its timber framing covered in ornate woodcarvings. Thunderstorms and rain forecast for tomorrow.
Mon 13th apr
No thunder or rain but very overcast and misty. Short journey to Tournus to have a look round. Big abbey but I looked round that last time. They have an arts and crafts festival on with some nice items, everything from modern furniture to traditional crafts. Standing by the river Saone I watched a car pile into a tree on the other side, luckily another car was following to give assistance, they all seemed to be OK. Few minutes later I watch a motorbike plough into the back of a car, he seemed OK apart from a limp. 13th unkucky for some I guess.
Tues 14th apr
Warm hazy day. Decide to take easy ride along country roads to Chalon sur Saone. Cross over Saone to eastern side and cycle north through quiet villages and green fields. A few very old traditional farmhouses to add a bit of variety. Stop in Epervans to get lunch from the boulangerie then sit on park bench to eat whilst watching very little happen. Very relaxing. Pitch at St. Marcel then cycle across bridge into Chalon. I needed food but primarily I was looking for a cyber café or wi-fi connection. No luck so will try tourist info and library tomorrow.
Wed 15th
Sunny but windy day. Walk into Chalon in afternoon and explore. Pleasant place with some interesting buildings. Again, many I recognized but had forgotten about. Called in tourist info but there was a long queue so came straight out. No luck finding cyber café, managed to get wi-fi connection but it kept breaking off as has been happening lately, no idea why. Will try again at Beaune tomorrow.
Thur 16th april
Strong south westerly with showers during night. Continues to rain throughout the day. I had packed everything apart from the tent ready to go during a break in the rain. As there wasn't one I spent most of the day relaxing in the tent, quite pleasant really. Took stroll aroud St. Marcel in the late afternoon when rain finally eased.
Fri 17th apr
No rain but weather looks iffy. Time to leave the Saone. Pack up and head north to Beaune on quiet country road. Sun came out for a while and with pleasant scenery and skylarks singing it was a nice ride. Stopped for a break in the Foret de Beauregard and watched a lorry spin out of control and end up in a ditch for apparently no reason. That makes three accidents this week. Luckily bloke got out and was OK. Campsite is only a few minutes walk from Beaune historic centre so spend afternoon wandering around. Visit fine arts museum and wine museum as well as a general look round. Nice place, lots of interesting architecture. Fine arts museum had some terrific stuff considering its only a small place. Wine museum covered every aspect from history to barrel making, no free samples unfortunately.
Make way into Lyon, find sign for centre and follow it. Suddenly find myself on fast three lane road with inches between a concrete wall on my right and traffic on my left. Judging by the hooting i'm not supposed to be here. Too late now, pedal like crazy trying to keep as close to wall as possible. Notice sign for centre pointing to slip road on left, no way am I going across there. Eventually find slip road on right and get to safety. Stop for a while and wait for trousers to stop smoking; amazing where reserves of energy come from at times like that. Find centre and get map of city. If you're into silk production or puppets this is the place to be; i'm not particularly so not much here I want to see. Stop for a while in the huge Place Bellecour, a sandy rectangle with nothing but a statue of Louis XIV in the centre and a football pitch marked on the floor. Follow banks of Saone then head NW until I find signs for Limonest and campsite at Dardilly where again they only have a price for two people. Lyon is supposed to be cycle friendly but as with most cities its Ok once you're in but getting in and out can be tricky without a map as all the signs assume you're in a car.
Sat 11th apr
Too expensive here so set off for Macon. Not a particularly interesting journey, mainly flat with fields and stuff; most of the villages looked a bit down at heel. Belleville was the exception, a very busy one way street lined with shops and parking spaces. Everybody was crawling along looking for the few empty spaces, took ages to get through even on a pushbike. Nice church as well. Macon has not changed much since I was here last, new commercial centre near campsite which is handy. Thunderstorm and showers in evening but otherwise weathers been cloudy but warm.
Sun 12th apr
Spend most of day wandering around Macon. Noticed a few things I hadn't seen before. Somebody had fun designing the post office, very flamboyant, possibly worth a photo. Interesting ruins, possibly an abbey, that I might look at again when the museum's open. Nice to see some of the things i'd seen before but forgotten about such as the Maison de Bois with its timber framing covered in ornate woodcarvings. Thunderstorms and rain forecast for tomorrow.
Mon 13th apr
No thunder or rain but very overcast and misty. Short journey to Tournus to have a look round. Big abbey but I looked round that last time. They have an arts and crafts festival on with some nice items, everything from modern furniture to traditional crafts. Standing by the river Saone I watched a car pile into a tree on the other side, luckily another car was following to give assistance, they all seemed to be OK. Few minutes later I watch a motorbike plough into the back of a car, he seemed OK apart from a limp. 13th unkucky for some I guess.
Tues 14th apr
Warm hazy day. Decide to take easy ride along country roads to Chalon sur Saone. Cross over Saone to eastern side and cycle north through quiet villages and green fields. A few very old traditional farmhouses to add a bit of variety. Stop in Epervans to get lunch from the boulangerie then sit on park bench to eat whilst watching very little happen. Very relaxing. Pitch at St. Marcel then cycle across bridge into Chalon. I needed food but primarily I was looking for a cyber café or wi-fi connection. No luck so will try tourist info and library tomorrow.
Wed 15th
Sunny but windy day. Walk into Chalon in afternoon and explore. Pleasant place with some interesting buildings. Again, many I recognized but had forgotten about. Called in tourist info but there was a long queue so came straight out. No luck finding cyber café, managed to get wi-fi connection but it kept breaking off as has been happening lately, no idea why. Will try again at Beaune tomorrow.
Thur 16th april
Strong south westerly with showers during night. Continues to rain throughout the day. I had packed everything apart from the tent ready to go during a break in the rain. As there wasn't one I spent most of the day relaxing in the tent, quite pleasant really. Took stroll aroud St. Marcel in the late afternoon when rain finally eased.
Fri 17th apr
No rain but weather looks iffy. Time to leave the Saone. Pack up and head north to Beaune on quiet country road. Sun came out for a while and with pleasant scenery and skylarks singing it was a nice ride. Stopped for a break in the Foret de Beauregard and watched a lorry spin out of control and end up in a ditch for apparently no reason. That makes three accidents this week. Luckily bloke got out and was OK. Campsite is only a few minutes walk from Beaune historic centre so spend afternoon wandering around. Visit fine arts museum and wine museum as well as a general look round. Nice place, lots of interesting architecture. Fine arts museum had some terrific stuff considering its only a small place. Wine museum covered every aspect from history to barrel making, no free samples unfortunately.
rhone valley 2b
Sun 29th mar
Rain's stopped but strong winds again, not cycling anywhere in this. Walk into Avignon and take audio tour of the Palais des Papes. Quite interesting but insufficient written info in english to back up audio.Good bookshop, could have spent a few euros there but didn't want to carry a load of books back to UK. Visited Musee Lapidaire with its collection of Gallo Roman, Etruscan and Egyptian sculptures. Battened down tent and put in earplugs as wind very loud.
Mon 30th mar.
Nice and sunny but still blowing a gale. Revisit Villenueve les Avignon to explore fort St. Andre. Not bad but info poor. Have a wander round La Chartreuse, one of the largest Carthusian monasteries in Europe. Quite a bit to see there with rooms covering daily monastic life, herb gardens, cloisters and the like; plenty of rooms to wander round; not bad.
Tue 31st mar
Wind died down a bit but decide to stay on another day. Most campsites open tomorrow so it'll give more choice when planning. Laze around in morning then visit the Requien museum in Avignon. Only a small natural history museum but had some interesting exhibits; local wildlife, prehistoric fossils, local geology and a good section on early plant hunters, botany and herbalism. Extremely good considering it was free.
Weds 1st apr
Winds died but now it's raining. Start packing in hopes it'll ease off. Finally stops about 11 so set off for Orange, not far but want to see the roman theatre and triumphal arch there. Quiet roads and rugged scenery make a nice journey. Roman theatre very impressive, enough standing to be still used. Quite informative audio tour as well. Large temple next door but unable to wander around that. Triumphal arch was unfortunately covered in polythene whilst being cleaned so saw little of that. Get to campsite late afternoon and manage to pitch just before rain starts again.
Thur 2nd apr
Still raining in morning, hang around until 11 but no change, decide to push on anyway. Head along N7 to Mornas and have a wander round this fascinating village with its clifftop castle complete with gibbet and cage hanging from the battlements. Continue along N7 to Mondragon where I can finally get onto minor roads to Pont St. Esprit. Rain now stopped and sun making an appearance. Follow Rhone to St. Just then into Ardeche gorge to campsite at St. Martin d'Ardeche. Take short evening stroll along river to view village of Aigueze hanging off gorge top. Judging by all the broken trees and branches there has been serious flooding here at some time.
Fri 3rd apr.
Beautiful day, walk into village to get supplies then spend rest of day walking along the Gorge de l'Ardeche. Wonderful scenery with crystal clear river winding through steep gorge and wooded hillsides. Difficult to get decent photos though with bright sun giving a flat and hazy light. Would like to canoe along the river someday.
Sat 4th apr
I'd noticed hairdressers in village so decide to get haircut. Wash, cut and blow dry later I head off back to Rhone valley and north to Viviers. Scorching hot day but the winds up again, not as bad as previously but still a nuisance. Campsite at Viviers looks closed although sign on gate and my guidebook says it opens 1st april. As i'm peering into the half shuttered reception a bloke appears and tells me they are not open yet but I can pitch for the night. "how much for the night?" I ask, "nothing, because we're not open" he replies. Excellent. He also hands me an english map and guide to Viviers so after pitching I head into the town. It's the sort of place that gives you a crick in the neck. Mainly medieval, it has seen so much history they've designated it as a protected area, almost an open air museum. Narrow cobbled alleyways climb up the hillside, flanked by tall stone buildings linked by arches to stop the walls tumbling in. Some of the buildings are occupied, others empty and in disrepair. Viviers lies north of a narrowing of the Rhone valley, the Defile de Donzere, theoretically the northern limit of mediterranean climate.
Sun 5th apr
Wind up again, a bit stronger but still manageable. Head east across Rhone to Chateauneuf du Rhone then north to Montelimar. Disappointed with Montelimar, it seems a bit grubby, plus all the nougat shops were shut. Back west across Rhone to Rochemaure with its hilltop village and castle cascading down from a rocky pinnacle. Very hot and sunny but there is still a dense haze which makes photography tricky, can only just make out hills on other side of valley. Carry on to Cruas and quite a nice campsite. Pitch up then walk into village to look round romanesque abbey church then follow signs up hill to fortified abbey and village. Extraordinary place, virtually a deserted medieval village, a real sense of stepping back in time. Although in ruins there is still enough to give a good idea of what it must have been like.
Mon 6th apr
Decide to stay another day to take photos of old village. Whereas yesterday the place was empty, today there are workmen scattered around. There seems to be a renovation programme under way to make all the areas safe to visit. Hope they don't ruin the character of the place. Also managed to get a bit of info about the medieval village from tourist office, it's a basic photocopied leaflet in french but better than nothing. The leaflet says there is an ambitious 20 to 30 year project to reconstruct the village complete with trades, inhabitants and exhibitions. Should be interesting especially as one of the houses was supposedly occupied by a sorcerer (next door to the grand prior as it happens)
Tues 7th apr
Cloudy and looks like rain but the wind is a southwesterly. Set out for Tain L'Hermitage. Really pleasant ride with wind behind me for a change. Steep wooded limestone hills to the left with the odd castle etc. Rhone to the right and the Rhone Alps in the distance. Only encountered a brief shower but otherwise an ideal day for cycling. Campsite at Tain is right by N7 so lots of traffic noise also 14.50 euros a night as they work on price for two people and the 'computer' won't adjust the price for one person. At Cruas it was 5 euros a night and a better site.
Weds 8th apr
Cross Rhone back onto west bank and head north to St. Clair du Rhone. Steep limestone hills to left, either wooded or cleared for vinyards. Interesting romanesque church at Champagne, randomly dotted with carvings of grotesques and symbols. Cross Rhone again and find campsite down long track just south of St. Clair. Very nice site right by a small river with quite posh facilities. Cycle into St. Clair to look round but it is an uninteresting place.
Thur 9th apr
Decide to cycle along east bank today for a change as it should be a quieter road. Near Vienne things get busier as major road, minor road, motorway and railway squeeze together. After Vienne the minor road is sandwiched between motorway and railway; lots of industry along the river banks. Cross Rhone again about 12km south of Lyon and things get hillier as climb up to Charly. Nice descent into St. Genis-Laval to a grotty campsite. There's loads of dusty cycling trophies in the reception and an old sticker saying the site is (was)recommended by the french cycle touring association. In fairness they are modernising it but meanwhile it's old style french loos and shabby showers. Into Lyon tomorrow where finally leave the Rhone and pick up the Saone river.
Rain's stopped but strong winds again, not cycling anywhere in this. Walk into Avignon and take audio tour of the Palais des Papes. Quite interesting but insufficient written info in english to back up audio.Good bookshop, could have spent a few euros there but didn't want to carry a load of books back to UK. Visited Musee Lapidaire with its collection of Gallo Roman, Etruscan and Egyptian sculptures. Battened down tent and put in earplugs as wind very loud.
Mon 30th mar.
Nice and sunny but still blowing a gale. Revisit Villenueve les Avignon to explore fort St. Andre. Not bad but info poor. Have a wander round La Chartreuse, one of the largest Carthusian monasteries in Europe. Quite a bit to see there with rooms covering daily monastic life, herb gardens, cloisters and the like; plenty of rooms to wander round; not bad.
Tue 31st mar
Wind died down a bit but decide to stay on another day. Most campsites open tomorrow so it'll give more choice when planning. Laze around in morning then visit the Requien museum in Avignon. Only a small natural history museum but had some interesting exhibits; local wildlife, prehistoric fossils, local geology and a good section on early plant hunters, botany and herbalism. Extremely good considering it was free.
Weds 1st apr
Winds died but now it's raining. Start packing in hopes it'll ease off. Finally stops about 11 so set off for Orange, not far but want to see the roman theatre and triumphal arch there. Quiet roads and rugged scenery make a nice journey. Roman theatre very impressive, enough standing to be still used. Quite informative audio tour as well. Large temple next door but unable to wander around that. Triumphal arch was unfortunately covered in polythene whilst being cleaned so saw little of that. Get to campsite late afternoon and manage to pitch just before rain starts again.
Thur 2nd apr
Still raining in morning, hang around until 11 but no change, decide to push on anyway. Head along N7 to Mornas and have a wander round this fascinating village with its clifftop castle complete with gibbet and cage hanging from the battlements. Continue along N7 to Mondragon where I can finally get onto minor roads to Pont St. Esprit. Rain now stopped and sun making an appearance. Follow Rhone to St. Just then into Ardeche gorge to campsite at St. Martin d'Ardeche. Take short evening stroll along river to view village of Aigueze hanging off gorge top. Judging by all the broken trees and branches there has been serious flooding here at some time.
Fri 3rd apr.
Beautiful day, walk into village to get supplies then spend rest of day walking along the Gorge de l'Ardeche. Wonderful scenery with crystal clear river winding through steep gorge and wooded hillsides. Difficult to get decent photos though with bright sun giving a flat and hazy light. Would like to canoe along the river someday.
Sat 4th apr
I'd noticed hairdressers in village so decide to get haircut. Wash, cut and blow dry later I head off back to Rhone valley and north to Viviers. Scorching hot day but the winds up again, not as bad as previously but still a nuisance. Campsite at Viviers looks closed although sign on gate and my guidebook says it opens 1st april. As i'm peering into the half shuttered reception a bloke appears and tells me they are not open yet but I can pitch for the night. "how much for the night?" I ask, "nothing, because we're not open" he replies. Excellent. He also hands me an english map and guide to Viviers so after pitching I head into the town. It's the sort of place that gives you a crick in the neck. Mainly medieval, it has seen so much history they've designated it as a protected area, almost an open air museum. Narrow cobbled alleyways climb up the hillside, flanked by tall stone buildings linked by arches to stop the walls tumbling in. Some of the buildings are occupied, others empty and in disrepair. Viviers lies north of a narrowing of the Rhone valley, the Defile de Donzere, theoretically the northern limit of mediterranean climate.
Sun 5th apr
Wind up again, a bit stronger but still manageable. Head east across Rhone to Chateauneuf du Rhone then north to Montelimar. Disappointed with Montelimar, it seems a bit grubby, plus all the nougat shops were shut. Back west across Rhone to Rochemaure with its hilltop village and castle cascading down from a rocky pinnacle. Very hot and sunny but there is still a dense haze which makes photography tricky, can only just make out hills on other side of valley. Carry on to Cruas and quite a nice campsite. Pitch up then walk into village to look round romanesque abbey church then follow signs up hill to fortified abbey and village. Extraordinary place, virtually a deserted medieval village, a real sense of stepping back in time. Although in ruins there is still enough to give a good idea of what it must have been like.
Mon 6th apr
Decide to stay another day to take photos of old village. Whereas yesterday the place was empty, today there are workmen scattered around. There seems to be a renovation programme under way to make all the areas safe to visit. Hope they don't ruin the character of the place. Also managed to get a bit of info about the medieval village from tourist office, it's a basic photocopied leaflet in french but better than nothing. The leaflet says there is an ambitious 20 to 30 year project to reconstruct the village complete with trades, inhabitants and exhibitions. Should be interesting especially as one of the houses was supposedly occupied by a sorcerer (next door to the grand prior as it happens)
Tues 7th apr
Cloudy and looks like rain but the wind is a southwesterly. Set out for Tain L'Hermitage. Really pleasant ride with wind behind me for a change. Steep wooded limestone hills to the left with the odd castle etc. Rhone to the right and the Rhone Alps in the distance. Only encountered a brief shower but otherwise an ideal day for cycling. Campsite at Tain is right by N7 so lots of traffic noise also 14.50 euros a night as they work on price for two people and the 'computer' won't adjust the price for one person. At Cruas it was 5 euros a night and a better site.
Weds 8th apr
Cross Rhone back onto west bank and head north to St. Clair du Rhone. Steep limestone hills to left, either wooded or cleared for vinyards. Interesting romanesque church at Champagne, randomly dotted with carvings of grotesques and symbols. Cross Rhone again and find campsite down long track just south of St. Clair. Very nice site right by a small river with quite posh facilities. Cycle into St. Clair to look round but it is an uninteresting place.
Thur 9th apr
Decide to cycle along east bank today for a change as it should be a quieter road. Near Vienne things get busier as major road, minor road, motorway and railway squeeze together. After Vienne the minor road is sandwiched between motorway and railway; lots of industry along the river banks. Cross Rhone again about 12km south of Lyon and things get hillier as climb up to Charly. Nice descent into St. Genis-Laval to a grotty campsite. There's loads of dusty cycling trophies in the reception and an old sticker saying the site is (was)recommended by the french cycle touring association. In fairness they are modernising it but meanwhile it's old style french loos and shabby showers. Into Lyon tomorrow where finally leave the Rhone and pick up the Saone river.
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