Thurs 20th Nov
Incredibly clear night last night. So many stars it was difficult to make out the main constellations.
Cycle on short daytrip to Cabo de Sao Vicente via Fortaleza do Beliche. Cycle back to look at fort in Sagres before buying grub for picnic lunch.
Woman stops to chat about bike as she also has a folder. They had noticed the bike as I had passed by their parked campervan. The two surfer vans turn up again. Keep seeing the same campervans and people as we leapfrog campsites along the coast. Getting to stage where people hoot and wave as they pass by and recognize the bike.
Fri 21st nov
Enormous insect flew into tent last night; about the size of a small helicopter (almost). Don't know what it was but it clattered rather than buzzed. Decide to move on along coast towards Lagos to find bike shop i'd been told about; I need spare inner tube and puncture repair outfit. The rocks round here are deep tan colour sandstones that weather to creamy grey on the surface. On the road out of Sagres a flock of sheep were grazing among the sandstone boulders, their fleece covered in tan coloured dust. From a distance it appeared as though the boulders themselves were moving.
Stop at supermarket near Budens and as i'm trying to work out how to srap cobs, tomatoes and ham and other goodies onto the bike, Marion rolls up in their campervan. I had planned to go round and visit them at their apartment in Salema but hadn't planned when. Have a chat and fix time for 2 tomorrow as first priority was to get to bike shop which are like hens teeth in Portugal.
Find campsite just passed Espiche, pitch up then cycle 4k into Lagos. I'd been told roughly where shop was so, with a bit of asking, find it quite quickly; no shopfront, just a door down an alley. Its really an old fashioned bike workshop but they also sell some parts. You indicate what you'd like and they disappear into the back room to get it. No choice involved here.
Back to camp; lots of brits here same as in the supermarket earlier (which sold Tetleys tea, McVities ginger nuts and English paperbacks).
I suppose, geographical, the area looks a bit like Wales, all rugged coastline, hills and sheep, but the weather's better.
Sat 22nd nov
Tried uploading photos to blog on campsite computer but USB not accessible. Stove burner holes clogged up so clean that out before heading of to Salema. Arrive early so explore a bit and have a beer on seafront. Takes ages to pay as attractive waitress is busy explainig to another customer how much better her breasts look when she's pregnant. Fascinating. Arrive at Ian and Marions apartment just as they do. Spend rest of day sitting in sun on patio chatting over drinks and sandwiches . Really nice to be able to have long conversation in English. Head back as sun starts going down.
Sun 23rd nov
Decide to stop here extra day to get housework done. Buy washing powder (till now i've scrounged powder or handwashed clothes using showergel). Put clothes into washing machine and, as the settings are in portugese, take a guess at which one I need.
As washing is doing I transfer the fine white powder from box into polythene bags to make packing easier. I hope i'm not stopped and searched at any borders. Patch up panniers where ironically the protective corners are rubbing through fabric. Hang out clothes and solar charger in the sun and lounge around whilst clothes dry and PDA charges.
Mon 24th nov
Grey, cloudy and blustery morning but i'm told it'll stay dry so decide to move on. Pack tent in wind with help of a few rocks and set off. First bit of journey is into wind so occasionally hard going. Reach Portimao and call in Decathlon there for extra spare inner tube and spare tyre. Front tyre (ex back tyre) is almost bald and has large split where piece of wood was driven through long ago in a country far away called England. I shall continue to use old tyre for as long as possible but feel happier knowing i've a spare .
Back onto busy main road for a while before taking minor road SE to Armacao de Pera to find campsite.
The majority of the journey was on busy urban roads and not particularly pleasant especially on a grey and windy day. The campsite is not particularly pleasant either. Start to pitch in one spot and some chap tells me it floods . Start to pitch in second spot and i'm told by another bloke that it's the worst possible spot as the nearby toilet block is being renovated and is out of action. Decide to stick with second spot as it's fairly sheltered from wind and weather is looking grim. Starts to rain in evening but only light showers.
Tue 25th nov
Nice sunny day but strong winds. Set out for Albufeira with wind and hills making going heavy at times. Albufeira was nicer than I expected. Although outskirts were lifeless apartment blocks, centre was quite lively with interesting sculptures or features on the roundabouts. Follow busy main road through Albufeira and on to Vale do Judeu before taking minor road towards Quarteira. This is major golfing country with so many golf courses you can probably see them from space. Lots of money being invested and spent with result that whole area is beautifully kept. Saw very lengthy fitness track with some of the most stylish exercise stations i've ever seen, almost sculptural. Called in at Cerro da Vila to look at the roman ruins there before wending way through Quarteira to campsite on Eastern edge. Pitch up then cycle back into Quarteira to get dinner as facilities on campsite are closed. They do have free Wi-Fi though.
Wednesday, 26 November 2008
Thursday, 20 November 2008
Tue 11th Nov
Saw what appeared to be 2 flocks of bats fly over last night, illuminated by campsite lights. Highlight of the evening that was.
Warm but cloudy as pack and head off to Ericeira. Just after getting supplies at Lourinha I notice bike behaving odd again; another flat. Dismantle everything by side of road and find patched hole in iner tube has split beyond patch. Replace inner tube, reassemble and set off again. Very hilly road with a couple of biggies at Ribamar and Ericeira but dramatic scenery. Slight showers start about midday and continue as I reach campsite and pitch. Couple of surfers from previous site also here and they say rest of week will be good..
Weds 12th nov
Looks like surfers were right so get washing done and stroll into Ericeira. As stopping for the day I can buy fresh food without having to worry about cramming it into panniers.
Do a bit of planning and decide to cut corner into Lisbon. Was originally going to follow coast round.
Thurs 13th nov
Leave Ericeira and head towards Lisbon. Hilly but feel in fine fettle and manage without too much difficulty. Get to Sintra and find no bikes allowed on road I wanted so find side roads to about 10k outside Lisbon then get stuck. Ask around but general response is you can't cycle into Lisbon from here, try the train. Meanwhile toe strap on sandal has broke. It first went 14th oct and I repaired it by boring holes in sole with a penknife and using a nylon cable tie to hold strap in place and its held so far. Now its the other side that's gone. Sit down by side of busy road with toolkit spread around me and get to work resulting in a repaired sandal and many odd looks. Get to station but it's self service and my Portugese is non existent. Find girl who speaks some english and tell her where I am trying to get to. She tells me nearest stop is the zoological gardens. Looking at my basic town plan in the road atlas I reckon I should be able to find way from there. Try luck with ticket machine and ask another girl which train I need ( I ask females as they are usually more helpful than men). Luckily she's going same way so off we go. Get to station and hoist bike off then try to get bearings. Eventually find a street name and, eventually, the campsite which is in a forest park surrounded by busy roads. Campsite not brilliant although supposedly 4 star. As its out of season all the facilities are reduced. Had thought about spending a couple of nights here but now having second thoughts.
The girl at the station said the Portugese don't use bikes and in general I think she's right. You don't see many cyclists at all.
Fri 14th nov
Leave campsite through park and into city. Cobbled roads, traffic and tramlines just wide enough for cycle tyres make for hazardous journey. Cut across to riverfront in hopes of following it into centre but it is manic. Two very busy dual carriageways separated by a trainline. Cycle on pavement as road too risky. Odd difficulty as pavement blocked and have to wait for pause in oncoming traffic, get onto road and make a dash for it . Eventually reach centre and after quick look make way to ferry. One leaving in 3 mins so get ticket and board glad to be away from the mayhem that is Lisbon. Cross river to Cacilhas. Road soon becomes very busy; no idea where the traffic comes from. Things quieten down and quite nice scenery as reach Arrabida national park. Head into Setubal and follow coast W to Outao. Very hilly and now hard work but reach campsite and rewarded by nice views across to the Troia peninsula.
Sat 15th nov
Cycle back into Setubal and call in supermarket. Come out to find sunglasses stolen. Catch ferry and have really pleasant trip across to Troia peninsula with nice views of Arrabida despite the cement works, then cycle S through miles and miles of pine and shrub covered sand dunes. Hot sunny day and really could have done with those sunglasses. Decide on campsite at Melides which turns out to be a huge shanty town of caravans with awnings canopies and all sorts. Quite a few portugese here as its the weekend.
Sun 16th nov.
Head S to Vila Nova de Milfontes as it looks like campsite is near civilization. So many of them are miles from anywhere. Bit of a tedious ride on main dual carriageway through usual pine and scrub sand dunes but at least not busy. Take minor road to Vila Nova de Milfontes and it is dreadful until you reach the regional boundary then it becomes excellent. Brisk southerly makes pedalling hard work at times. Find campsite and it looks good; no shanty town. Might stop for a day as backside needs a break.
Mon 17th nov
Go shopping and find cheap pair of sunglasses. walk along coast to see fort and old town then into the market to get fresh bread, cheese, pate and salad. Sit in sun and have picnic lunch. Vila Nova de Milfontes is quite a nice place so have relaxing day.
Tue 18th nov
Off S to Aljezur. Really pleasant cycling as road leads into national park. A few climbs but worth it for the scenery, steep wooded valleys with the odd village tumbling down the sides. Piles of cork bark in places looking like stacks of hollow logs.. I'd noticed the trees some time ago with grey gnarled upper and chocolate brown wrinkly lower trunk where bark has been removed. Sriff climb out of valley into Odeceixe then stopped for break by fountain in Rogil. Reach Aljezur and pitch on rock hard ground. Even using a stone as a hammer the pegs don't go in far. The toilet block however is the finest i've seen so far. Have dinner under eucalyptus trees watching a fabulous sunset.
Weds 19th nov
Beautiful day as set off for Sagres. Lovely scenery again; even the geology's interesting with folded shales often colourfully banded like candy stripes. Stopped for supplies at a Lidl in Vila do Bispo and saw a praying mantis on the pavement outside. Campsite not bad so might stop for a day or two and explore. Met a Swiss cyclist who's cycled quite a bit in Portugal. Apparently the best time to cycle in Lisbon is Sunday, otherwise its very bad. He prefers to skirt round it. He also suggested that Portugal was not the best place for first major cycle trip. I tend to agree; apart from the often dreadful roads, the portugese love their cars and are not as considerate to cyclist as the french.
Saw what appeared to be 2 flocks of bats fly over last night, illuminated by campsite lights. Highlight of the evening that was.
Warm but cloudy as pack and head off to Ericeira. Just after getting supplies at Lourinha I notice bike behaving odd again; another flat. Dismantle everything by side of road and find patched hole in iner tube has split beyond patch. Replace inner tube, reassemble and set off again. Very hilly road with a couple of biggies at Ribamar and Ericeira but dramatic scenery. Slight showers start about midday and continue as I reach campsite and pitch. Couple of surfers from previous site also here and they say rest of week will be good..
Weds 12th nov
Looks like surfers were right so get washing done and stroll into Ericeira. As stopping for the day I can buy fresh food without having to worry about cramming it into panniers.
Do a bit of planning and decide to cut corner into Lisbon. Was originally going to follow coast round.
Thurs 13th nov
Leave Ericeira and head towards Lisbon. Hilly but feel in fine fettle and manage without too much difficulty. Get to Sintra and find no bikes allowed on road I wanted so find side roads to about 10k outside Lisbon then get stuck. Ask around but general response is you can't cycle into Lisbon from here, try the train. Meanwhile toe strap on sandal has broke. It first went 14th oct and I repaired it by boring holes in sole with a penknife and using a nylon cable tie to hold strap in place and its held so far. Now its the other side that's gone. Sit down by side of busy road with toolkit spread around me and get to work resulting in a repaired sandal and many odd looks. Get to station but it's self service and my Portugese is non existent. Find girl who speaks some english and tell her where I am trying to get to. She tells me nearest stop is the zoological gardens. Looking at my basic town plan in the road atlas I reckon I should be able to find way from there. Try luck with ticket machine and ask another girl which train I need ( I ask females as they are usually more helpful than men). Luckily she's going same way so off we go. Get to station and hoist bike off then try to get bearings. Eventually find a street name and, eventually, the campsite which is in a forest park surrounded by busy roads. Campsite not brilliant although supposedly 4 star. As its out of season all the facilities are reduced. Had thought about spending a couple of nights here but now having second thoughts.
The girl at the station said the Portugese don't use bikes and in general I think she's right. You don't see many cyclists at all.
Fri 14th nov
Leave campsite through park and into city. Cobbled roads, traffic and tramlines just wide enough for cycle tyres make for hazardous journey. Cut across to riverfront in hopes of following it into centre but it is manic. Two very busy dual carriageways separated by a trainline. Cycle on pavement as road too risky. Odd difficulty as pavement blocked and have to wait for pause in oncoming traffic, get onto road and make a dash for it . Eventually reach centre and after quick look make way to ferry. One leaving in 3 mins so get ticket and board glad to be away from the mayhem that is Lisbon. Cross river to Cacilhas. Road soon becomes very busy; no idea where the traffic comes from. Things quieten down and quite nice scenery as reach Arrabida national park. Head into Setubal and follow coast W to Outao. Very hilly and now hard work but reach campsite and rewarded by nice views across to the Troia peninsula.
Sat 15th nov
Cycle back into Setubal and call in supermarket. Come out to find sunglasses stolen. Catch ferry and have really pleasant trip across to Troia peninsula with nice views of Arrabida despite the cement works, then cycle S through miles and miles of pine and shrub covered sand dunes. Hot sunny day and really could have done with those sunglasses. Decide on campsite at Melides which turns out to be a huge shanty town of caravans with awnings canopies and all sorts. Quite a few portugese here as its the weekend.
Sun 16th nov.
Head S to Vila Nova de Milfontes as it looks like campsite is near civilization. So many of them are miles from anywhere. Bit of a tedious ride on main dual carriageway through usual pine and scrub sand dunes but at least not busy. Take minor road to Vila Nova de Milfontes and it is dreadful until you reach the regional boundary then it becomes excellent. Brisk southerly makes pedalling hard work at times. Find campsite and it looks good; no shanty town. Might stop for a day as backside needs a break.
Mon 17th nov
Go shopping and find cheap pair of sunglasses. walk along coast to see fort and old town then into the market to get fresh bread, cheese, pate and salad. Sit in sun and have picnic lunch. Vila Nova de Milfontes is quite a nice place so have relaxing day.
Tue 18th nov
Off S to Aljezur. Really pleasant cycling as road leads into national park. A few climbs but worth it for the scenery, steep wooded valleys with the odd village tumbling down the sides. Piles of cork bark in places looking like stacks of hollow logs.. I'd noticed the trees some time ago with grey gnarled upper and chocolate brown wrinkly lower trunk where bark has been removed. Sriff climb out of valley into Odeceixe then stopped for break by fountain in Rogil. Reach Aljezur and pitch on rock hard ground. Even using a stone as a hammer the pegs don't go in far. The toilet block however is the finest i've seen so far. Have dinner under eucalyptus trees watching a fabulous sunset.
Weds 19th nov
Beautiful day as set off for Sagres. Lovely scenery again; even the geology's interesting with folded shales often colourfully banded like candy stripes. Stopped for supplies at a Lidl in Vila do Bispo and saw a praying mantis on the pavement outside. Campsite not bad so might stop for a day or two and explore. Met a Swiss cyclist who's cycled quite a bit in Portugal. Apparently the best time to cycle in Lisbon is Sunday, otherwise its very bad. He prefers to skirt round it. He also suggested that Portugal was not the best place for first major cycle trip. I tend to agree; apart from the often dreadful roads, the portugese love their cars and are not as considerate to cyclist as the french.
Wednesday, 12 November 2008
Sat 1st Nov
Set out South under heavy overcast skies. Not a very scenic ride, nowhere near as nice as yesterday. Found campsite at Villa da Conde. I was aiming for one at Povoa de Varzim but must have missed it. Stove fuel getting low so bought food can eat cold.
Sun 2nd
Met a couple of folk I first met at in Baiona when I saw a brit registered volksy camper and went over for a chat. Ian and Marion were working their way South doing a bit of surfing. They had arrived at this campsite after dismissing thier first choice. Had another chat along with tea, toast and marmalade.
Thought I´d follow coast into Porto but cobbles persuaded me to stay on N13. Not scenic and very busy, especially entering Porto. Managed to cut west to the coast at Matoshinos and follow cycle route along coast and up river into Porto; had a beer under the massive bridge, Pont da Arrabida which takes the A1 IC1 across; cross smaller bridge and down other side of river past old derelict warehouses and into a small village with a street full of decoratively tiled houses; then along coast to campsite at Praia da Madalena. This bit of the coast very popular and seem major seaside resort. Had not had time to by food but campsite receptionist says campsite bar open and they sell food. Great, evening sorted off to internet cafe to post blog then back for tea. all goes well until I arrive at bar for food, all they have on the menu is toast and butter, bread and butter, half toast and butter. Oh well coffee toast and butter it is. Not quite what I was expecting.
Mon 3rd
Off we go again, managed to pick up orange juice and biscuits in Espinho to tide me over.
took N109 to Aveiro, what a dreadful road with grubby urbanisation lining the road most of the way. With the grey overcast sky and traffic it was not a pleasant ride. Only consolation was I found a supermarket and also fuel for my stove. Followed N109 to Ilhavo to try and make my way to Praia da Barra to camp but got totally lost in the urban sprawl. Notice bike is behaving odd as well and find slow puncture in rear tyre. Stop at school when notice pupils leaving and ask for directions figuring they might have an English teacher. Plan works and she kindly gets in her car and leads me through the streets to the bridge across the river. Thanked her and set off across bridge against a strong wind. By now it is dark and rear tyre about flat. Manage to find signs for campsite and push bike last few hundred yards to save damaging rear tyre too much. Book in at campsite just as receptiion closing. What a day, still felt better after a cuppa.
Tues 4th
Damp drizzly start to day, replace rear inner tube and swap rear and front tyres as rear very worn. Looks like I´ll need new ones before long. Did a bit of bike maintenance then mooched around but everywhere very dead. Campsite like a ghost town.
Weds 5th
Fine weather as set off down the sand spit, quite pleasant and peaceful. Many locals sitting by roadside selling home grown produce looking quite Peruvian. Followed coast to Praia da Mira then had to cut inland as road so bad I was only managing walking pace. Found excellent new road that I had all to myself for a while before hitting N109. entered Figueira da Foz and found tourist info who suggested two sites; I chose the one nearest and with a supermarket next door.
Thurs 6th
Looks like an overcast day. Campsite is in pine wood and, like many of the sites, is part sort of shanty town where regulars leave their caravans and add bits to them over time. go to supermarket to get days grub and on way back notice two people speaking english so I ask them if they know what the weather forecast is. They ask if i´m in the small tent and then say they´ll shout it across. Go over a bit later and introduce myself; end up staying till early hours of next day . Bob and Jane have spent last 8 years or so exploring portugal and adopting various lifestyles. Talked for hours over tea, beer and a very nice casserole by Jane. all the stories would fill a book and, if they haven´t already, I reckon they ought to write one.
Fri 7th
Go to reception to pay for extra night but they tell me no need and have a pleasant journey. set of down N109, try cutting across to coast but no luck so stick on main road untill I know and get get to coast. follow fairly straight, undulating road for about 20K through sand dunes covered with scrub and pines until I reach Sao Pedro da Moel and find campsite. Go for evening stroll after tea and watch waves crash onto cliffs by the light of the lighthouse right outside campsite, very atmospheric and dramatic.
Sat 8th
As weather looks good, decide to stop and dry clothes which have been damp from washing on wednesday and didn´t have time to finish drying. Do general tent and kit clean and tidy and laze around as it is such a nice day. Had noticed book on portugese campsites so asked at reception if they had one but no luck. At present I´m using a europe campsite book which only shows a selection of sites.
Sun 9th
Heavy condensation in tent meant wet patch on sleeping bag and drips on my head in the morning. Pack up and head south. Coast has a cycle path for quite a way so fairly easy going. Get to campsite at Sao Martinho da Porto as recommended by receptionist at previous site. It is in a great location at the head of a seashell shaped bay where the sea enters between two promontories then spreads out. town itself is quite nice and lively but campsite itself is a bit rough. they also have portugal campsite book so buy it. Worth it as it not only tells you all the sites in portugal but a little map showing exactly where. Has meant I can plan things a little better whilst in Portugal at least.
Mon 10th
Set off again and before long climb long hill to Castle in Obidos, on to Lourinha to camp, quite a hilly and tiring journey. Campsite is completely a shanty town so have to pitch in a tiny little corner between two permanent canvas tents. Notice couple of brit vans with young surfers. Say hello but they weren´t particularly chatty.
Set out South under heavy overcast skies. Not a very scenic ride, nowhere near as nice as yesterday. Found campsite at Villa da Conde. I was aiming for one at Povoa de Varzim but must have missed it. Stove fuel getting low so bought food can eat cold.
Sun 2nd
Met a couple of folk I first met at in Baiona when I saw a brit registered volksy camper and went over for a chat. Ian and Marion were working their way South doing a bit of surfing. They had arrived at this campsite after dismissing thier first choice. Had another chat along with tea, toast and marmalade.
Thought I´d follow coast into Porto but cobbles persuaded me to stay on N13. Not scenic and very busy, especially entering Porto. Managed to cut west to the coast at Matoshinos and follow cycle route along coast and up river into Porto; had a beer under the massive bridge, Pont da Arrabida which takes the A1 IC1 across; cross smaller bridge and down other side of river past old derelict warehouses and into a small village with a street full of decoratively tiled houses; then along coast to campsite at Praia da Madalena. This bit of the coast very popular and seem major seaside resort. Had not had time to by food but campsite receptionist says campsite bar open and they sell food. Great, evening sorted off to internet cafe to post blog then back for tea. all goes well until I arrive at bar for food, all they have on the menu is toast and butter, bread and butter, half toast and butter. Oh well coffee toast and butter it is. Not quite what I was expecting.
Mon 3rd
Off we go again, managed to pick up orange juice and biscuits in Espinho to tide me over.
took N109 to Aveiro, what a dreadful road with grubby urbanisation lining the road most of the way. With the grey overcast sky and traffic it was not a pleasant ride. Only consolation was I found a supermarket and also fuel for my stove. Followed N109 to Ilhavo to try and make my way to Praia da Barra to camp but got totally lost in the urban sprawl. Notice bike is behaving odd as well and find slow puncture in rear tyre. Stop at school when notice pupils leaving and ask for directions figuring they might have an English teacher. Plan works and she kindly gets in her car and leads me through the streets to the bridge across the river. Thanked her and set off across bridge against a strong wind. By now it is dark and rear tyre about flat. Manage to find signs for campsite and push bike last few hundred yards to save damaging rear tyre too much. Book in at campsite just as receptiion closing. What a day, still felt better after a cuppa.
Tues 4th
Damp drizzly start to day, replace rear inner tube and swap rear and front tyres as rear very worn. Looks like I´ll need new ones before long. Did a bit of bike maintenance then mooched around but everywhere very dead. Campsite like a ghost town.
Weds 5th
Fine weather as set off down the sand spit, quite pleasant and peaceful. Many locals sitting by roadside selling home grown produce looking quite Peruvian. Followed coast to Praia da Mira then had to cut inland as road so bad I was only managing walking pace. Found excellent new road that I had all to myself for a while before hitting N109. entered Figueira da Foz and found tourist info who suggested two sites; I chose the one nearest and with a supermarket next door.
Thurs 6th
Looks like an overcast day. Campsite is in pine wood and, like many of the sites, is part sort of shanty town where regulars leave their caravans and add bits to them over time. go to supermarket to get days grub and on way back notice two people speaking english so I ask them if they know what the weather forecast is. They ask if i´m in the small tent and then say they´ll shout it across. Go over a bit later and introduce myself; end up staying till early hours of next day . Bob and Jane have spent last 8 years or so exploring portugal and adopting various lifestyles. Talked for hours over tea, beer and a very nice casserole by Jane. all the stories would fill a book and, if they haven´t already, I reckon they ought to write one.
Fri 7th
Go to reception to pay for extra night but they tell me no need and have a pleasant journey. set of down N109, try cutting across to coast but no luck so stick on main road untill I know and get get to coast. follow fairly straight, undulating road for about 20K through sand dunes covered with scrub and pines until I reach Sao Pedro da Moel and find campsite. Go for evening stroll after tea and watch waves crash onto cliffs by the light of the lighthouse right outside campsite, very atmospheric and dramatic.
Sat 8th
As weather looks good, decide to stop and dry clothes which have been damp from washing on wednesday and didn´t have time to finish drying. Do general tent and kit clean and tidy and laze around as it is such a nice day. Had noticed book on portugese campsites so asked at reception if they had one but no luck. At present I´m using a europe campsite book which only shows a selection of sites.
Sun 9th
Heavy condensation in tent meant wet patch on sleeping bag and drips on my head in the morning. Pack up and head south. Coast has a cycle path for quite a way so fairly easy going. Get to campsite at Sao Martinho da Porto as recommended by receptionist at previous site. It is in a great location at the head of a seashell shaped bay where the sea enters between two promontories then spreads out. town itself is quite nice and lively but campsite itself is a bit rough. they also have portugal campsite book so buy it. Worth it as it not only tells you all the sites in portugal but a little map showing exactly where. Has meant I can plan things a little better whilst in Portugal at least.
Mon 10th
Set off again and before long climb long hill to Castle in Obidos, on to Lourinha to camp, quite a hilly and tiring journey. Campsite is completely a shanty town so have to pitch in a tiny little corner between two permanent canvas tents. Notice couple of brit vans with young surfers. Say hello but they weren´t particularly chatty.
Sunday, 2 November 2008
Sat 25th
At last a warm night, what a difference a good sleeping bag makes.
Set out from Socoa to San Sebastian but got lost in Errentaria. Asking around and eventually a chap comes up and explains he is going to SS but by train as its too hilly to cycle. So hop on local train with this chap, Francisco. He gives me a quick guided tour of San Sebastian which is a very nice place. We have a couple of beers the say cheerio and I head off for the tourist office. Bump into Jim and Marcia outside the tourist office so we do a bit of shopping then set out for local campsite. Turns out campsite is on Mont Igelda, 5km away up a very, very large hill. Eventually get there and set up camp
Incidentally when coming out of San Sebastian Station we met a chap with a tandem and trailer. As we stood talking he dismantled the tandem and turned it into a mountain bike, stacking the unused bits on his trailer. Turns out he´s spent last six and a half years on and off, touring round and offering the spare tandem seat to whoever wants to share the journey. He reckons he spends 80% of his time accompanied. He has a web site http://www.peacepedlars.org/ ( I think}
Sun 26th
Lovely day as say goodbye to Jim and Marcia as unlikely to see them again. I have decided to try and make my way acrros Spain to the West coast by train to avoid the bad weather closing in. Got a clue when the surfers at the campsite were replaced by snowboarders. " whens the snow expected" I ask " any day now" was the response. Time for me to move on. Jim and Marcia decide to risk cycling along the North coast then head inland.
Catch bus into SS to research trains (not tackling that hill again) then back to camp to sit in sun with a beer and plan.
Only regional trains take bikes so looks like several changes as I´ll be crossing a few regions
Mon 27th.
Pack up and head into SS, book train to Vitoria Gastiez and on to Palencia then mooch around as train not till 15:35
I expected to change trains but all that happened was the staff and train details changed but not the train.
Arrived in Palencia 20:10 and asked about nearby hotels. Found one straight away so took stroll round Palencia.
Fascinating place, lots of people out and about promenading. Many of the pastry and sweet shops were open and the really nice atmosphere was only slightly spoilt by the town clock chimes which were amplified through dreadful speakers.
Tue 28th
Very cold morning as explore Palencia in the daylight but lacks what it had in the evening.
Catch train to Leon (just, it had been delayed so nearly got on wrong train). Try to find out about next stage at station but they only sisplay regional info so had to wait until info kiosk opened. Next train not till 16:40 tomorrow so check at tourist office about rooms and settle for a hostel in the old quarter then set out to explore Leon. Again a fascinating place with lots of folk strolling about, mainly because its on the Santiago pilgrims route. Crowd of youngster go by dressed in bin bags and carrying boxes of eggs. I presume there is a festival somewhere but I never found it. Visit cathedral and a few other cultural bits, most odd was a twee disneyesque 'castle' by Gaudi, must have been before he totally lost it and went over the top. Called in bar next to Hostel for a beer which was served with olives, pickled gerkins and onions. Just what you need before bedtime.
Weds 29th
Call back in bar for breakfast of bacon and eggs then off to wander Leon until train arrives. It is bitterly cold (2 degrees in the sun and a cold wind) The snow has arrived and coats the hills around Leon but the city itself is clear.
Catch train to Vigo without a hitch as used to it now. Train pulls out of station and breaks down. Another backup train rolls up half hour later and shunts us back into station, where we get off and change platforms, then changes tracks and picks us up. Off we finaly go an hour late. Original train was through to Vigo on west coast but due to delay we have to change at Ponferrado. Train for next leg is not a regional one so no space for a bike. As its an exception they let me on and I squeeze into the narrow gap between carriages blocking everybody passing through as well as using the loos. Expect to stand there moving bike for 5 hours until conductor suggests removing luggage and its then I remember the bike is a folder. As Vigo is the terminus I'll have plenty of time to get the bike off and reassemble it. Dismantle everything and store it in the luggage racks and settle down to tead a novel i found lying around in the hostel.
Have chat with lovely young Spanish girl who spoke excellent English. Find out there is a hotel right next to station which is good as we arrive at midnight. By this time I have picked up a stinking cold and feel very congested.
Thurs 30th
After a night coughing and sneezing I plan next stage. I had thought to catch train into Northern Portugal to miss some busy roads. As the only train is this evening and Vigo isn't a particularly attractive place I decide to cycle out. I really did not look forward to waking up a hotel with my coughs and sneezes. Quick cycle up the hill to visit the castle which was a mistake when congested with a cold.Good job there was a bar at the top. Eventually find my way out of Vigo and head to nearby campsite at Baiona as I really do not feel up to cycling far just yet.
Fri 31st
Baiona very nice and noted, apparently, as the place where news of Columbus's discovery was first heard.
Lovely day and a really nice ride along the coast with rugged hills to the left and a rugged coast to the right. Feel a lot better for a healthy dose of car fumes. Eventually reach bridge into Portugal, cross over and head to Carminha to pitch up for night. First thing you notice about Portugal is the tiles, the fancy church spires and the absolutely dreadful condition of the roads. Even major road have big potholes and cracked surfaces. If I thought the french fancied cobbles, the portuguese have a positive passion for them. I end up being shaken senseless on some of the roads.
At last a warm night, what a difference a good sleeping bag makes.
Set out from Socoa to San Sebastian but got lost in Errentaria. Asking around and eventually a chap comes up and explains he is going to SS but by train as its too hilly to cycle. So hop on local train with this chap, Francisco. He gives me a quick guided tour of San Sebastian which is a very nice place. We have a couple of beers the say cheerio and I head off for the tourist office. Bump into Jim and Marcia outside the tourist office so we do a bit of shopping then set out for local campsite. Turns out campsite is on Mont Igelda, 5km away up a very, very large hill. Eventually get there and set up camp
Incidentally when coming out of San Sebastian Station we met a chap with a tandem and trailer. As we stood talking he dismantled the tandem and turned it into a mountain bike, stacking the unused bits on his trailer. Turns out he´s spent last six and a half years on and off, touring round and offering the spare tandem seat to whoever wants to share the journey. He reckons he spends 80% of his time accompanied. He has a web site http://www.peacepedlars.org/ ( I think}
Sun 26th
Lovely day as say goodbye to Jim and Marcia as unlikely to see them again. I have decided to try and make my way acrros Spain to the West coast by train to avoid the bad weather closing in. Got a clue when the surfers at the campsite were replaced by snowboarders. " whens the snow expected" I ask " any day now" was the response. Time for me to move on. Jim and Marcia decide to risk cycling along the North coast then head inland.
Catch bus into SS to research trains (not tackling that hill again) then back to camp to sit in sun with a beer and plan.
Only regional trains take bikes so looks like several changes as I´ll be crossing a few regions
Mon 27th.
Pack up and head into SS, book train to Vitoria Gastiez and on to Palencia then mooch around as train not till 15:35
I expected to change trains but all that happened was the staff and train details changed but not the train.
Arrived in Palencia 20:10 and asked about nearby hotels. Found one straight away so took stroll round Palencia.
Fascinating place, lots of people out and about promenading. Many of the pastry and sweet shops were open and the really nice atmosphere was only slightly spoilt by the town clock chimes which were amplified through dreadful speakers.
Tue 28th
Very cold morning as explore Palencia in the daylight but lacks what it had in the evening.
Catch train to Leon (just, it had been delayed so nearly got on wrong train). Try to find out about next stage at station but they only sisplay regional info so had to wait until info kiosk opened. Next train not till 16:40 tomorrow so check at tourist office about rooms and settle for a hostel in the old quarter then set out to explore Leon. Again a fascinating place with lots of folk strolling about, mainly because its on the Santiago pilgrims route. Crowd of youngster go by dressed in bin bags and carrying boxes of eggs. I presume there is a festival somewhere but I never found it. Visit cathedral and a few other cultural bits, most odd was a twee disneyesque 'castle' by Gaudi, must have been before he totally lost it and went over the top. Called in bar next to Hostel for a beer which was served with olives, pickled gerkins and onions. Just what you need before bedtime.
Weds 29th
Call back in bar for breakfast of bacon and eggs then off to wander Leon until train arrives. It is bitterly cold (2 degrees in the sun and a cold wind) The snow has arrived and coats the hills around Leon but the city itself is clear.
Catch train to Vigo without a hitch as used to it now. Train pulls out of station and breaks down. Another backup train rolls up half hour later and shunts us back into station, where we get off and change platforms, then changes tracks and picks us up. Off we finaly go an hour late. Original train was through to Vigo on west coast but due to delay we have to change at Ponferrado. Train for next leg is not a regional one so no space for a bike. As its an exception they let me on and I squeeze into the narrow gap between carriages blocking everybody passing through as well as using the loos. Expect to stand there moving bike for 5 hours until conductor suggests removing luggage and its then I remember the bike is a folder. As Vigo is the terminus I'll have plenty of time to get the bike off and reassemble it. Dismantle everything and store it in the luggage racks and settle down to tead a novel i found lying around in the hostel.
Have chat with lovely young Spanish girl who spoke excellent English. Find out there is a hotel right next to station which is good as we arrive at midnight. By this time I have picked up a stinking cold and feel very congested.
Thurs 30th
After a night coughing and sneezing I plan next stage. I had thought to catch train into Northern Portugal to miss some busy roads. As the only train is this evening and Vigo isn't a particularly attractive place I decide to cycle out. I really did not look forward to waking up a hotel with my coughs and sneezes. Quick cycle up the hill to visit the castle which was a mistake when congested with a cold.Good job there was a bar at the top. Eventually find my way out of Vigo and head to nearby campsite at Baiona as I really do not feel up to cycling far just yet.
Fri 31st
Baiona very nice and noted, apparently, as the place where news of Columbus's discovery was first heard.
Lovely day and a really nice ride along the coast with rugged hills to the left and a rugged coast to the right. Feel a lot better for a healthy dose of car fumes. Eventually reach bridge into Portugal, cross over and head to Carminha to pitch up for night. First thing you notice about Portugal is the tiles, the fancy church spires and the absolutely dreadful condition of the roads. Even major road have big potholes and cracked surfaces. If I thought the french fancied cobbles, the portuguese have a positive passion for them. I end up being shaken senseless on some of the roads.
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