Sat 25th

At last a warm night, what a difference a good sleeping bag makes.

Set out from Socoa to San Sebastian but got lost in Errentaria. Asking around and eventually a chap comes up and explains he is going to SS but by train as its too hilly to cycle. So hop on local train with this chap, Francisco. He gives me a quick guided tour of San Sebastian which is a very nice place. We have a couple of beers the say cheerio and I head off for the tourist office. Bump into Jim and Marcia outside the tourist office so we do a bit of shopping then set out for local campsite. Turns out campsite is on Mont Igelda, 5km away up a very, very large hill. Eventually get there and set up camp

Incidentally when coming out of San Sebastian Station we met a chap with a tandem and trailer. As we stood talking he dismantled the tandem and turned it into a mountain bike, stacking the unused bits on his trailer. Turns out he´s spent last six and a half years on and off, touring round and offering the spare tandem seat to whoever wants to share the journey. He reckons he spends 80% of his time accompanied. He has a web site http://www.peacepedlars.org/ ( I think}



Sun 26th

Lovely day as say goodbye to Jim and Marcia as unlikely to see them again. I have decided to try and make my way acrros Spain to the West coast by train to avoid the bad weather closing in. Got a clue when the surfers at the campsite were replaced by snowboarders. " whens the snow expected" I ask " any day now" was the response. Time for me to move on. Jim and Marcia decide to risk cycling along the North coast then head inland.

Catch bus into SS to research trains (not tackling that hill again) then back to camp to sit in sun with a beer and plan.

Only regional trains take bikes so looks like several changes as I´ll be crossing a few regions



Mon 27th.

Pack up and head into SS, book train to Vitoria Gastiez and on to Palencia then mooch around as train not till 15:35

I expected to change trains but all that happened was the staff and train details changed but not the train.

Arrived in Palencia 20:10 and asked about nearby hotels. Found one straight away so took stroll round Palencia.

Fascinating place, lots of people out and about promenading. Many of the pastry and sweet shops were open and the really nice atmosphere was only slightly spoilt by the town clock chimes which were amplified through dreadful speakers.



Tue 28th

Very cold morning as explore Palencia in the daylight but lacks what it had in the evening.

Catch train to Leon (just, it had been delayed so nearly got on wrong train). Try to find out about next stage at station but they only sisplay regional info so had to wait until info kiosk opened. Next train not till 16:40 tomorrow so check at tourist office about rooms and settle for a hostel in the old quarter then set out to explore Leon. Again a fascinating place with lots of folk strolling about, mainly because its on the Santiago pilgrims route. Crowd of youngster go by dressed in bin bags and carrying boxes of eggs. I presume there is a festival somewhere but I never found it. Visit cathedral and a few other cultural bits, most odd was a twee disneyesque 'castle' by Gaudi, must have been before he totally lost it and went over the top. Called in bar next to Hostel for a beer which was served with olives, pickled gerkins and onions. Just what you need before bedtime.



Weds 29th

Call back in bar for breakfast of bacon and eggs then off to wander Leon until train arrives. It is bitterly cold (2 degrees in the sun and a cold wind) The snow has arrived and coats the hills around Leon but the city itself is clear.

Catch train to Vigo without a hitch as used to it now. Train pulls out of station and breaks down. Another backup train rolls up half hour later and shunts us back into station, where we get off and change platforms, then changes tracks and picks us up. Off we finaly go an hour late. Original train was through to Vigo on west coast but due to delay we have to change at Ponferrado. Train for next leg is not a regional one so no space for a bike. As its an exception they let me on and I squeeze into the narrow gap between carriages blocking everybody passing through as well as using the loos. Expect to stand there moving bike for 5 hours until conductor suggests removing luggage and its then I remember the bike is a folder. As Vigo is the terminus I'll have plenty of time to get the bike off and reassemble it. Dismantle everything and store it in the luggage racks and settle down to tead a novel i found lying around in the hostel.

Have chat with lovely young Spanish girl who spoke excellent English. Find out there is a hotel right next to station which is good as we arrive at midnight. By this time I have picked up a stinking cold and feel very congested.



Thurs 30th

After a night coughing and sneezing I plan next stage. I had thought to catch train into Northern Portugal to miss some busy roads. As the only train is this evening and Vigo isn't a particularly attractive place I decide to cycle out. I really did not look forward to waking up a hotel with my coughs and sneezes. Quick cycle up the hill to visit the castle which was a mistake when congested with a cold.Good job there was a bar at the top. Eventually find my way out of Vigo and head to nearby campsite at Baiona as I really do not feel up to cycling far just yet.



Fri 31st

Baiona very nice and noted, apparently, as the place where news of Columbus's discovery was first heard.

Lovely day and a really nice ride along the coast with rugged hills to the left and a rugged coast to the right. Feel a lot better for a healthy dose of car fumes. Eventually reach bridge into Portugal, cross over and head to Carminha to pitch up for night. First thing you notice about Portugal is the tiles, the fancy church spires and the absolutely dreadful condition of the roads. Even major road have big potholes and cracked surfaces. If I thought the french fancied cobbles, the portuguese have a positive passion for them. I end up being shaken senseless on some of the roads.