Sat 1st Nov



Set out South under heavy overcast skies. Not a very scenic ride, nowhere near as nice as yesterday. Found campsite at Villa da Conde. I was aiming for one at Povoa de Varzim but must have missed it. Stove fuel getting low so bought food can eat cold.



Sun 2nd

Met a couple of folk I first met at in Baiona when I saw a brit registered volksy camper and went over for a chat. Ian and Marion were working their way South doing a bit of surfing. They had arrived at this campsite after dismissing thier first choice. Had another chat along with tea, toast and marmalade.

Thought I´d follow coast into Porto but cobbles persuaded me to stay on N13. Not scenic and very busy, especially entering Porto. Managed to cut west to the coast at Matoshinos and follow cycle route along coast and up river into Porto; had a beer under the massive bridge, Pont da Arrabida which takes the A1 IC1 across; cross smaller bridge and down other side of river past old derelict warehouses and into a small village with a street full of decoratively tiled houses; then along coast to campsite at Praia da Madalena. This bit of the coast very popular and seem major seaside resort. Had not had time to by food but campsite receptionist says campsite bar open and they sell food. Great, evening sorted off to internet cafe to post blog then back for tea. all goes well until I arrive at bar for food, all they have on the menu is toast and butter, bread and butter, half toast and butter. Oh well coffee toast and butter it is. Not quite what I was expecting.



Mon 3rd

Off we go again, managed to pick up orange juice and biscuits in Espinho to tide me over.

took N109 to Aveiro, what a dreadful road with grubby urbanisation lining the road most of the way. With the grey overcast sky and traffic it was not a pleasant ride. Only consolation was I found a supermarket and also fuel for my stove. Followed N109 to Ilhavo to try and make my way to Praia da Barra to camp but got totally lost in the urban sprawl. Notice bike is behaving odd as well and find slow puncture in rear tyre. Stop at school when notice pupils leaving and ask for directions figuring they might have an English teacher. Plan works and she kindly gets in her car and leads me through the streets to the bridge across the river. Thanked her and set off across bridge against a strong wind. By now it is dark and rear tyre about flat. Manage to find signs for campsite and push bike last few hundred yards to save damaging rear tyre too much. Book in at campsite just as receptiion closing. What a day, still felt better after a cuppa.



Tues 4th

Damp drizzly start to day, replace rear inner tube and swap rear and front tyres as rear very worn. Looks like I´ll need new ones before long. Did a bit of bike maintenance then mooched around but everywhere very dead. Campsite like a ghost town.



Weds 5th

Fine weather as set off down the sand spit, quite pleasant and peaceful. Many locals sitting by roadside selling home grown produce looking quite Peruvian. Followed coast to Praia da Mira then had to cut inland as road so bad I was only managing walking pace. Found excellent new road that I had all to myself for a while before hitting N109. entered Figueira da Foz and found tourist info who suggested two sites; I chose the one nearest and with a supermarket next door.



Thurs 6th

Looks like an overcast day. Campsite is in pine wood and, like many of the sites, is part sort of shanty town where regulars leave their caravans and add bits to them over time. go to supermarket to get days grub and on way back notice two people speaking english so I ask them if they know what the weather forecast is. They ask if i´m in the small tent and then say they´ll shout it across. Go over a bit later and introduce myself; end up staying till early hours of next day . Bob and Jane have spent last 8 years or so exploring portugal and adopting various lifestyles. Talked for hours over tea, beer and a very nice casserole by Jane. all the stories would fill a book and, if they haven´t already, I reckon they ought to write one.

Fri 7th
Go to reception to pay for extra night but they tell me no need and have a pleasant journey. set of down N109, try cutting across to coast but no luck so stick on main road untill I know and get get to coast. follow fairly straight, undulating road for about 20K through sand dunes covered with scrub and pines until I reach Sao Pedro da Moel and find campsite. Go for evening stroll after tea and watch waves crash onto cliffs by the light of the lighthouse right outside campsite, very atmospheric and dramatic.

Sat 8th
As weather looks good, decide to stop and dry clothes which have been damp from washing on wednesday and didn´t have time to finish drying. Do general tent and kit clean and tidy and laze around as it is such a nice day. Had noticed book on portugese campsites so asked at reception if they had one but no luck. At present I´m using a europe campsite book which only shows a selection of sites.

Sun 9th
Heavy condensation in tent meant wet patch on sleeping bag and drips on my head in the morning. Pack up and head south. Coast has a cycle path for quite a way so fairly easy going. Get to campsite at Sao Martinho da Porto as recommended by receptionist at previous site. It is in a great location at the head of a seashell shaped bay where the sea enters between two promontories then spreads out. town itself is quite nice and lively but campsite itself is a bit rough. they also have portugal campsite book so buy it. Worth it as it not only tells you all the sites in portugal but a little map showing exactly where. Has meant I can plan things a little better whilst in Portugal at least.

Mon 10th
Set off again and before long climb long hill to Castle in Obidos, on to Lourinha to camp, quite a hilly and tiring journey. Campsite is completely a shanty town so have to pitch in a tiny little corner between two permanent canvas tents. Notice couple of brit vans with young surfers. Say hello but they weren´t particularly chatty.