Wednesday, 26 November 2008

Heading East

Thurs 20th Nov
Incredibly clear night last night. So many stars it was difficult to make out the main constellations.
Cycle on short daytrip to Cabo de Sao Vicente via Fortaleza do Beliche. Cycle back to look at fort in Sagres before buying grub for picnic lunch.
Woman stops to chat about bike as she also has a folder. They had noticed the bike as I had passed by their parked campervan. The two surfer vans turn up again. Keep seeing the same campervans and people as we leapfrog campsites along the coast. Getting to stage where people hoot and wave as they pass by and recognize the bike.

Fri 21st nov
Enormous insect flew into tent last night; about the size of a small helicopter (almost). Don't know what it was but it clattered rather than buzzed. Decide to move on along coast towards Lagos to find bike shop i'd been told about; I need spare inner tube and puncture repair outfit. The rocks round here are deep tan colour sandstones that weather to creamy grey on the surface. On the road out of Sagres a flock of sheep were grazing among the sandstone boulders, their fleece covered in tan coloured dust. From a distance it appeared as though the boulders themselves were moving.
Stop at supermarket near Budens and as i'm trying to work out how to srap cobs, tomatoes and ham and other goodies onto the bike, Marion rolls up in their campervan. I had planned to go round and visit them at their apartment in Salema but hadn't planned when. Have a chat and fix time for 2 tomorrow as first priority was to get to bike shop which are like hens teeth in Portugal.
Find campsite just passed Espiche, pitch up then cycle 4k into Lagos. I'd been told roughly where shop was so, with a bit of asking, find it quite quickly; no shopfront, just a door down an alley. Its really an old fashioned bike workshop but they also sell some parts. You indicate what you'd like and they disappear into the back room to get it. No choice involved here.
Back to camp; lots of brits here same as in the supermarket earlier (which sold Tetleys tea, McVities ginger nuts and English paperbacks).
I suppose, geographical, the area looks a bit like Wales, all rugged coastline, hills and sheep, but the weather's better.

Sat 22nd nov
Tried uploading photos to blog on campsite computer but USB not accessible. Stove burner holes clogged up so clean that out before heading of to Salema. Arrive early so explore a bit and have a beer on seafront. Takes ages to pay as attractive waitress is busy explainig to another customer how much better her breasts look when she's pregnant. Fascinating. Arrive at Ian and Marions apartment just as they do. Spend rest of day sitting in sun on patio chatting over drinks and sandwiches . Really nice to be able to have long conversation in English. Head back as sun starts going down.

Sun 23rd nov
Decide to stop here extra day to get housework done. Buy washing powder (till now i've scrounged powder or handwashed clothes using showergel). Put clothes into washing machine and, as the settings are in portugese, take a guess at which one I need.
As washing is doing I transfer the fine white powder from box into polythene bags to make packing easier. I hope i'm not stopped and searched at any borders. Patch up panniers where ironically the protective corners are rubbing through fabric. Hang out clothes and solar charger in the sun and lounge around whilst clothes dry and PDA charges.

Mon 24th nov
Grey, cloudy and blustery morning but i'm told it'll stay dry so decide to move on. Pack tent in wind with help of a few rocks and set off. First bit of journey is into wind so occasionally hard going. Reach Portimao and call in Decathlon there for extra spare inner tube and spare tyre. Front tyre (ex back tyre) is almost bald and has large split where piece of wood was driven through long ago in a country far away called England. I shall continue to use old tyre for as long as possible but feel happier knowing i've a spare .
Back onto busy main road for a while before taking minor road SE to Armacao de Pera to find campsite.
The majority of the journey was on busy urban roads and not particularly pleasant especially on a grey and windy day. The campsite is not particularly pleasant either. Start to pitch in one spot and some chap tells me it floods . Start to pitch in second spot and i'm told by another bloke that it's the worst possible spot as the nearby toilet block is being renovated and is out of action. Decide to stick with second spot as it's fairly sheltered from wind and weather is looking grim. Starts to rain in evening but only light showers.

Tue 25th nov
Nice sunny day but strong winds. Set out for Albufeira with wind and hills making going heavy at times. Albufeira was nicer than I expected. Although outskirts were lifeless apartment blocks, centre was quite lively with interesting sculptures or features on the roundabouts. Follow busy main road through Albufeira and on to Vale do Judeu before taking minor road towards Quarteira. This is major golfing country with so many golf courses you can probably see them from space. Lots of money being invested and spent with result that whole area is beautifully kept. Saw very lengthy fitness track with some of the most stylish exercise stations i've ever seen, almost sculptural. Called in at Cerro da Vila to look at the roman ruins there before wending way through Quarteira to campsite on Eastern edge. Pitch up then cycle back into Quarteira to get dinner as facilities on campsite are closed. They do have free Wi-Fi though.

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